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| Paint and Bodywork Anything to do with fabricating bodywork, composites, prep and paint work goes in here. |
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#1 |
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Member
Noobie
Local Time: 01:31 PM
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So what brand of rattlecan paint do you guys recommend? PJ1? VHT? DuPont? Something else? I am looking to paint frame/wheels, and I'm really not sure what to use. I can NOT afford powder coating right now (poor college budget) so a shit rattlecan job will have to suffice. What have you gentleman had the best luck with?
Thanks! Adam |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
![]() Fighterer
Local Time: 12:31 PM
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-Maksim Resident EE and BMW Cage expert. |
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| These people High Fived mvrk10256! |
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#3 | |
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Member
Noobie
Local Time: 01:31 PM
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| This user High Fived Shoester! |
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#4 | |
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Member
Noobie
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Location: Maine
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#5 |
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Ridin Dirty
Fighterer
Local Time: 01:31 PM
Location: Louisiana
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iv'e been painting for 19 years and have mangaged to use almost everthing under the sun...this particular paint right here is the best by far. It sprays fast, and is tough as it gets. You can spray auto grade clear over it too. available at Lowes>>
![]() If I need flat or satin black, I chose this over any auto grade paint you shoot out of a gun.... |
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#6 | |
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hak after hak after hak
Fighter
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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#7 |
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Member
Fighter In Training
Local Time: 11:31 AM
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I just painted this with the Krylon brand at walmart. I used a krylon primer as well but I can't remember. Best to keep it all in the same family. 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear I think it turned out good. Honestly painting is 99% prep work and technique.
Also for wheels I have had good luck with the wheel coating you can buy I believe at autozone as well.. Held up really nice.
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#8 |
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personal hazard
CF Addict
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Location: Far Westend (Henrico), VA
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VHT epoxy paint is tough as shit. takes 7 days to cure though.
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#9 |
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Bad Company
CF Pimp
Local Time: 01:31 PM
Location: Iowa
Posts: 4,057
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[IMG]
[/IMG]I rattle canned this, still needing some clear coating work yet, [IMG] [/IMG]Rattle can on the work on this too, well aside from the skull decal. This particular postapocalyptic look I do, I will actually feather like lets say 2 corners and one side with one color, then half the middle and another corner with a 2nd color, (in this particular piece I layed the decal down at this stage) And then applied a 3rd color to the bare areas. Then I sprayed over everything once in diagnal lines, alternating the colors. Then a FOOK ton of sanding to bring all the differnt layers out. [IMG] [/IMG]And I ALSO rattle canned everything you see here. Given its no where near postapocalyptic by any means, but I went overboard. I wanted a glass smooth base coat, and glass smooth clear. So When I was done sanding the primer (yep I wet sanded the primer down to 600 grit) I applied a base of metalic silver, then sanded it, then the sunburst metalic orange and sanded that, then the clear and yes I even sanded that. Buffed to perfection. Duplicolor I am not a fan of there clear cote in the spray bombs, its to weak, to thin lacks any real form of depth. Im debating about resanding the clear, and then getting a 2 part epoxy clear over it. 2011 Build off entry thread for Revelation http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=39157 2011 Build off discussion thread for Revelation http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=39156 Revelation's normal build thread http://www.customfighters.com/forums...t=36848&page=5 |
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#10 |
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To ride or not to ride
Noobie
Local Time: 02:31 PM
Location: TN
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I used VHT rollbar and chassis black for that flat black look on the frame and it worked VERY WELL, sprayed very smooth and layed down nice and even. Will post a pic soon. It does say it takes 7 days to cure, but does that mean i need to wait 7 days before i can apply a clearcoat? Any recommendations on a clearcoat from a rattlecan would be helpful
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