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F'dup's "No regerts" 2002 SV650 build

14K views 50 replies 1 participant last post by  F'dup 
#1 ·
It's time y'all!!!

Back story, and reason for the title. The R6 I built a while back had been finished and I had my fun on it. The decision was made to move on to another build. I always had my eye on SV650's. Most appealing to me was the torque of the v-twin over the top end scream of, especially my 600, inline 4.

So when I had seen a high sided and a bit rough around the edges 02 SV pop up on craigslist I struck as fast as I could. I offered up an even trade for my running, riding, reliable, R6. For a high sided, sort of busted up un-rideable and, when I went to get it, non running SV.... And you know what? No regerts.... Yet :D

Enough b.s. onto the pictures...

Here she is in current state. Work done already is make a backing plate for mounting broken foot control, pull and replace broken bolt on clip-on, replace choke cable and replace left hand control and choke lever. And some zip ties for shit plastics and "custom" front blinker mounts to get her on the road.

















Ummm, no fucking clue... lol...



Pile of goodies next to the bike. Going to have to wait to see what's inside...



Garbage...



More garbage...



Does my ass look straight? Wait...What?



So that's where I'm at, stay tuned for updates...
 
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#2 ·
Pulled some garbage off.

Then I mocked up my seat choice, Buell XB9/12s factory low seat....

Then I just stood there...Yeah, that will work out...







I know y'all love a good mock up tease...
 
#3 ·
As seen above, the swingarm that came on these bikes is boxy and plain. With the curvy tube frame and body lines this bike has it just never jived with me. So let's change the swinger.

Not so fast hombre. SV650's have a little bit of a challenging arrangement of things. The shock is offset to the left of center and the rear exhaust pipe runs down next to it through the hole.



The little down spout is what the head pipe attaches to for the rear cylinder.



So I needed something that would allow me to (hopefully) not have to cut off the top shock mount or have to make some crazy and inevitably ugly rear exhaust pipe.

So here's what I came up with. Aprilia rsv/tuono 99-03 model year.

Has the shock mount offset to the left. And I believe the pipe runs through the hole like mine.




By luck the pivot bolts are the same diameter. An aprilia bearing on the aprilia's pivot first, then on the sv's pivot.





Well things can't be that bolt in ya' know...

The pivot is wider than the sv's. By, well more than a bit :D



So a logical plan was hatched.



Right side has a little meat to grind off before the bearing c-clip groove.



MMk...



Some cast letters and junk sanded out of the way.





And that let me step into the ball park.





So, that's where I left off for now. I need to look at a few things before I go all in and cut off the left and right pivot bosses flush with the frame. I don't want to ruin a frame before I'm 100% sure.



Before I did my swingarm grinding I did a little wood support mock up for you. I think it will look good on there...Got to make this one work.



 
#4 ·
Although I don't have a frame jig, I can make a decent try at keeping the new rear some what centered.

The center of my front tire is in the middle of the table lift's wheel clamp. Mark that and measure from one side of the table and work my way down marking center.





Middle of the frame spars marked out on the back of the motor.



Shift the whole bike a hair to get it on my table's mark.



Proceed to cut off the swingarm bosses.









After the little bit of trim from the last post my aprilia swingarm is right around 9-3/4" wide.

With the bosses cut out and filed down to flat with the frame spars I have just under 10". I think this may work!



Normally the two 9mm bearings on the bench go in the end of the swinger that's up.

Aprilia pivot on the "stuff" on the right, SV pivot on the left. Remember they are the same diameter.



Put one of the bearings back in for now. I'm thinking of running one 13mm or so sealed bearing instead of the two 9mm @ 18mm total.

That way the threaded end of the pivot will do it's thing and fit in the end of the swinger and still thread into the frame.





The aluminum spacer goes into the swinger's pivot, then the end spacer goes into chain side of arm.



It sticks out a hair too far. In the end I'll trim down my spacer to make them work. For now though I left the middle aluminum spacer out to get my end length right.



Had to clearance a little of the peg mount area to fit the arm.



Hard to see, but my rear shock doesn't want to jive with the arm. Not a big deal to me though, I really want to ditch this crap shock any way. I'll deal with that later.



So other than running into those issues, she's in.... Barely :D ... Got about the same amount of clearance on the other side too.



On the bright side though, my exhaust fits perfect in the arm.







And even better for me, the shock mounts line up very nearly perfect to the linkage mount on the swingarm!





 
#5 ·
So, all in all things are working out well. I'll work on my bearing and rear shock issues next. For now here is how she's looking.







According to the rear valve stem I'm very nearly on my center too!




Chain run may be and issue. We'll see on that...

 
#6 ·
Ok, dug around the basement parts horde and pulled out the 99-02 R6 rear shock I had from that build.

R6, with compression and rebound adjustment on the left. Sv stocker with none of the above on the right. This should be a better situation.



Got my wheel up to stock ride height for the SV.



As more luck would have it my top mount is identical between the two! Fits perfectly.



Now my shock clears the inside of the arm. SV's didn't want to work because of how far back the lower mount was. It wouldn't even bolt up.



Fits good with pipe too.



Lower linkage and mount clearly not going to work.



Take it out and offer up the Aprilia linkage.





I'll need some spacers and the right bolt for the lower shock mount, but not too far off.



So here is what I'm thinking on the dog bone. And feel free to let me know what you think in the party and bullshit thread.

Use this lower mount thingy. (no idea what it had on it originally) It's 1/4" thick x about 1-1.5" in size. Pretty sturdy it seems.



If I clearance out the back side as seen by the marker markings, I can get my dog bone up and level.



Then I was thinking making a plate setup to tie it all together with the mount hole above it and then the silver hole I'll bolt the dog bone into place. Crude but general idea ms-paint job.




That all puts the shock nearly straight up and down. Nothing seems to be at a crazy angle.



So any ways, let me know if you think my shock setup seem dangerous in the party and bullshit chat stew thread.

I have a feeling it will work out well though.

Thanks for all the high fives too y'all I appreciate it!
 
#7 ·
Today I didn't make any progress on the bike. Physically that is. I did how ever pick up a very key tool for completing this project.

Atlas 618 manual lathe... Fuck yeah... :D












She is a runner, and seems decently cared for. I've got my machinist friend on the prowl for a 3-jaw chuck and he said he'll get me some more tooling.

I've got to get her setup and working on the quick so I can start doing some parts needed for this build.

All in all I'm freaking pumped. It's a good enough machine for what I'm intending on using for as far as I can tell...
 
#8 ·
After spending some time setting up the lathe, (posted in the party and B.S. thread about that.) I'm back to the bike build.

Rear suspension stuff...

Pilfered a bolt for my R6 bottom shock mount out of the stock SV650 linkage (link to frame bolt.)



Drill out the Aprilia triangle to fit bolt through.



The bolt is pretty long, but it's the perfect diameter for the R6's shock bushing. The non-threaded portion sticks out past triangle a hair.



So make a spacer...



Yay lathe..





And then I remembered the exhaust was somewhere near there too... Booooo..



Back to the drawing board.



Flip the bolt head to the exhaust side, 1/4" off the spacer and 1/4" cut off the bolt. Job done.





Take out the rubber bushing for the potential dog bone plate lower mount.



Turn another piece of aluminum down to size.



Pop her in like it's meant to be.



Can't believe how nice it is having this lathe around for this little B.S.
Freaking loving it....:rock:

Thanks for looking and for the high fives too y'all, I appreciate it!
 
#9 ·
Rethought how I was going to trim that part for the lower dog bone mount. New plan in pic below, old in the last post.



After ALOT of file and deremel work.





Not wanting to remove any more material I had to take a little off the top of the dog bone to get it angled up a hair. I didn't want it to sit level from front to rear.



Sand it smooth.




Side stand switch is going to be in the way.



Not any more.



New plan. (cat food and bubble gum back again y'all :)... I'm going to have to work on that.)



Works like a charm though... Chain run MAY be an issue but I have to wait and see, think it's close enough to the front sprocket to be out of the way.



Plenty of room to work with now.



And dog bone will go something like this.

 
#10 ·
Cardboard template in place.



Transfer to 6x3 piece of 1/8" thick aluminum. Tools of the day shown, vertical bandsaw for metal cutting is next on the list, that's for sure...



Duplication jig setup for the other plate.



Pop them in for a look.





New spacers are next up. Material has to be purchased and turned up in the lathe.



A little bit of a bigger picture of how it's looking.





Thanks fer lookin'....
 
#11 ·
Work, snow, and family obligations took up most of my weekend. But I was able to get a couple important steps done.

In order to make the spacers mentioned above I needed to get the swingarm torqued in place.

Middle spacer from the pivot needed to be cut down because this bushing stuck out too far to fit between the frame.



Before trim.



After trim.



Because of how wide the swingarm's pivot is I left one of the two right side bearings out during mock up to make things fit.





With the bosses from the frame cut out and long width of the swingarm's pivot I needed to trim down my pivot bolt, marked in black marker as seen, to fit arm with both bearings.



Job done.



Side note, my finish would be better had I remembered to leave more material for my last pass. Too light of a final cut resulted in the correct diameter, but not a great look. It's ok it all goes in a bushing, but a lesson learned.

Arm in place and torqued. Next up is making the spacers for the mounts and pieces in the previous post.

 
#12 ·
'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the house, wrenches were thrown and curse words bandied about.

The exhaust pipe was hung onto the bike with care, in hopes that clearance for my newly worked up suspension parts would be there.


Annnnnd, nope... The bolt that looks like it is just touching the exhaust could be reasonably easy to deal with, but the lower bolt was going to be completely fudged by the tube.



I've been there done that with cutting and welding exhaust pipes, I didn't want to have to do that with this bike and crap up a pretty nice Micron head pipe in the processes.

I tried to make a new side plate with stepped in mounts, but it looked like utter shit.

Knowing I had to have parts in the horde that'll work I was able to offer up a solution.

R6's dog bone cut in half and trimmed a hair.





Holes drilled and tapped.



5/16 18 torx head bolts screwed in.



Made up some thin spacers for the frame bolt end of the bone and a spacer for the end of the actual bolt. Also made a couple of rubber spacers for the swingarm end of the bone that ride on the long bushing.



Got the spacers for the shock bushing and bolt done too.



Threw it all in.













 
#13 ·
There is a reason why I take so many damn pictures. It helps me step away from "get it on and working." and let's me take some time to see if parts "look pleasing".

Went to be bothered by one thing after getting the rear suspension bolted on finally.

The abrupt end on the dog bone circle in red. Decided to match the angle (as best as I could) with the triangle indicated by the red line.



There, that's better...





Remember kiddies, it's all about matching angles..... :thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
Even failures are worth posting about, 'ya know teachable moments and such...

Got my motor and frame center mark lined back up.



Drill bit in the valve stem gave me a handy way to get my rear wheel on my mark.



Aprilia axle diameter is 25mm, gsxr rear wheel bearings take a 28mm axle. Need to make a spacer that will go through my bearings and fill the gap to swinger.





bought a piece of 12" 1-3/4" tube with 1" hole.



It was perfect because the hole is the right size (1" is right about 25mm)...



So I started to make my spacers. This is the finished brake side. Fills the gap to swingarm and reduced the axle diameter for bearing. I made it half the full with and planed on making my chain side the other half of the full wheel width.





BUT... The hole bored in the extruded tube was not concentric so when I turned it down I got a lop sided piece. That means my axle wouldn't be centered up in the reducers or maybe misaligned too...

Hard to see in the pic but look at the circles edges, one is thinner than the other.



Time wasted is the biggest bummer, but material and tooling on order and more progress to come this week.... I'll get it right...
 
#15 ·
Got my two wheel spacers done. This one picture represents hours of standing in front of the lathe. Going to just have to trust me on that, lol.



Good news is my axle hole is perfect after using some new larger drill bits and a new boring bar.



They don't extend all the way through the wheel, just about 2" past the bearings. But with the oe center bearing spacer still in the wheel I'm not concerned about it.





And there you have it, K8 (or so I think) GSXR wheel in an Aprilia rsv/tuono swingarm. All centered up in an SV650.



With that out of the way turned my attention to chain run.



Not horrible, just about a full tooth width off.



Flip the rear sprocket over and re-mount with the small offset on the backside.





That brought me down to just about a half tooth width off. Should be straight forward enough to deal with that. I'll work out that kink next week though.



Some astute CF'ers might have already figured out why I used a GSXR rear wheel. And no it's not the 180 tire....


Thanks for looking and the high fives guys!
 
#16 ·
Thought I'd post up this week's progress this morning. I'll be update later this weekend with what ever else I got.

I tried all the rear calipers in my horde and nothing was going to jive. Consulted the internet and as best as I can tell Aprilia rsv and Gsxr share the same rotor dimension 220mm.

Went and bought an Aprilia brembo *insert ooohh and awws* rear caliper. Came with master, line, duplicate carrier I can sell, and a speed sensor that may prove very handy.



Wants to share the same space as the carrier though.





Cut a bit off my brake side wheel spacer.



Moves my caliper carrier inboard, created a gap to be filled to the right of it now.



No problem. Well, let's just say not a problem yet but the more spacers involved the more of a bitch installing the wheel is, but it's not bad now.





Wham, bam, brembo man...

 
#17 ·
Moving my carrier inboard means the pin that stops it from rotating was hanging on by not much.



Take it out, and happily it's drilled out from the factory.





Drill it s'more and tap it to 3/8-16.



Throw in a socket head cap screw, which is the perfect diameter to match the pin.





That gave me the length I needed.



Also got my new tires on this morning. Shinko 005's, after running shinko on the sportster I'm liking the brand so why not give these a shot.

So after I got the rear wheel installed and it was looking fairly motorcycle like I thought I'd take a couple pics.





Really happy to be at the tail end of the swinger swap. Need to sort out chain run next, but I think I'm going 520 conversion so I'll have to order the chain and sprockets.

Maybe have the new forks on by tomorrow though :D ...

Thanks for looking y'all!
 
#18 ·
Waited to get the forks on 'till after work today. There is a 50 ton press in a shop next door where I work. Did not want to dremel the lower race off the stem yesterday when I could press the stem and race out today.

Any damn ways. 06/07 GSXR600 forks. Nice part is they are the longest of the radial brake gsxr inverted forks.....

That's pretty much it lol, buy some bearings from all balls conversion site and slap the freaking things in.

Nothing special nothing ground breaking...

Now you know why I chose that rear wheel.. I wanted matching wheels...





The more black that goes on this bike the more I like the color for it...

All the usual fun stuff from a fork swap still to come. Stay tuned!
 
#19 ·
Got my risers in. But bars didn't come in this week, damn it, but I can still get somethings ready for when they do. (Tomorrow hopefully)

Top triple.



Whack the ignition loop off. Will be moving that off the bars. Steering lock wouldn't work in this location (locks bars straight) so not interested.



Clean out powder coating from voids, and fill with PC7. I like this stuff because you can get these large containers of it.



One more coat to go, I ran out actually but had just enough to almost fill. Got the other coat on today.



Take this tab off.





Finished up my chain run, that was nice because the swingarm swap should be good to go now.

Ordered a 520 conversion 15/45 (stock sv gearing) for the gsxr.

Only showing this pic because I'm in love with the rethal rear sprockets for some odd reason.. Just really like the look of them :LolLolLolLol:



Front sprocket has a larger offset side on the normal outside face.



But I flipped it over to take up some of the space I needed to make up. So small offset now on outside face.



Made up this spacer.



In and looking damn near perfect enough for me.





Ok, downside (I guess). I loose the ability to run the locking plate for the sprocket nut because the sprocket is at the very end of the shaft. Not the end of the world and frankly I'm not too concerned, with a locking nut at over 100 ft/lbs of torque if I use red loctite it's going to be fine...




Thanks for looking and for the high fives everyone... :skully:
 
#20 ·
Bars did end up coming yesterday. Got them and the riser "on" after work last night. Bike master "super bike" bend 7/8 and outlaw racing risers. In my opinion a really nice setup for only ~$55 for the two combined. Check them out if you're in the market.

I said on in quotes because the headlight mount/dash mount will be made with the spacers I need to make up under the risers. Waiting on a part of the headlight mount to get here before working on that. Just wanted to post up as to not have a massive pic dump later.

Riser holes drilled.





Gap under the risers where light/dash mount will be.



How they are sitting.







Love this shot of them. "Superbike" bend has a nice low rise gives a nice view from behind. :D

 
#21 ·
Waiting on things for the front-end, might as well shift gears to the rear.

Found a bit of a ebay unicorn, buell xb(non "R" model) subframe. Best part, it was around $16 shipped to my door. Including under tray.



Wow you say. Why so cheap? Well, yeah the lower mounts are busted out of it. :D





But who cares right? All I needed was the rear hoop/plate/light mount.

Over a hundred fucking dollars later :wtf: ....

Funny part is that it's a NOS piece and it was over $50 less than the used ones.



All in all not into the subby for too much to really complain about it.

For what ever reason the buell seat I bought didn't want to play nice.





Just needed a couple of relief cuts on it.



So obvious problem of seat not coming into tank and no lower mounts aside, here is how it's looking.






Thanks again for looking everyone!
 
#22 ·
Work and family things Saturday killed DW for me then, but today I was able to do some subframe hacking.

Cut off the busted lower mounts.



Cleaned up with a file.





Re-drill the top mount holes and chop off the old.



Doing that got my seat to the tank where I wanted it.







Loads more to do before it's on. But I am however pleased with how the seat comes into to tank.

Honestly, most of the bulbous late 90's early 2K Suzuki gas tanks need something to help bring the proportions down. One reason why the SRAD era gsxr's always look funky to me is the tank.

I think the seat and the tank pads (which will be replaced and re-positioned) help take away some from the tank's mass. In the end I'm digging black for a color now so that can help too...
 
#23 ·
Mentioned in the discussion thread (why aren't you sub'd to that too?!) about a change of plans for the buell subframe top mounts pictured above. Pieces have been made, just waiting on a sunny day to weld them up.

Since it was snowing out today I did a little on the front-end.

Turned up a couple of spacers and made up a 1/8" flat steel bracket.



Bolts to existing hole in the lower tree where some plastic b.s. was before.



Bolted to that is a lower headlight bracket from a FZ-07 yamaha.



Rubber nubbers on the bracket sit in this part of the headlight from a FZ-09 yamaha.



How it's looking on the bike.










Obviously there is the task of upper mounts still to be done. I will shape up the lower mount too in the end. Make that less rectangular ghetto fab. May incorporate steering stops off of it though so that's why for now it's untrimmed.


Why FZ-07 mount on the FZ-09 light?... Because it was a'lot cheaper and well, it worked.


That's it for now, hoping for sun to go out and weld up the top subframe mount deal.


Thanks for looking and high five'n!
 
#24 ·
Pic dump from the after work DW this week. Just got inside... Also just ran out of propane for heat. But I got done what I wanted...


Little plastic surgery on the light.





Drill and tap 1/4-20 holes in the ends of a 3/4(?)" aluminum rod.



Rod goes in the area opened up. Attached with 1/4-20 button head bolts with some nice finish washers... Mutha fucking stainless y'all...





Take that rig, mill (lol J/K I hand filed it...) a flat spot on it. Run 1" wide 1/8" thick aluminum flat to under the risers and make spacers to fill the gap. Then drill and tap rod to 1/4-20. (Got the picture I don't have good metric taps :D )



Couple of spacers made up for under the risers too.



Easy part of the night. I bought a FZ-09 factory windscreen. And bolted it on :D ....



So if you are too lazy to scroll up this is how it looked with out the screen.



Annnnnnd now.















Super happy about the screen, the light needed something up there.

Really happy with the top mount too, it's not my usual steel and snot weld git er done nonsense...
 
#25 ·
Adding the windscreen and making my top headlight mount the way I did left me with this view from the seat.



The flat stock sticking out from the top clamp and the big void under the screen aren't the nicest things to be looking at.

So hatch a plan.

Cardboard template and an old door kick plate I pilfered at one point. It's a nice gauge aluminum to work with.



Make some holes, sand and file to shape, pop a bend in it. Then sand, because I like polished aluminum but I hate polishing aluminum.



Then pop in a koso db1rrrrr.... Speedometer (won on ebay for a twenty spot, go me!).







Tucks in really nice behind the screen.



That's it for now, new revelations on the subframe due for Thursday/Friday time frame.

Till then thanks for tuning in!
 
#26 ·
Subframe revelations...

Remember this picture from a while back?

Seat was far from the tank and required me to cut off the top mounts on the buell subframe to get the seat into the tank.



Well, apparently it was because I bought a Buell "XB12Ss" subframe. This particular buell is a long version of the XB bikes. It's seat and subframe are longer than the standard bike.

SOOO... I paid very dearly for a regular buell subby. This time the mounts are all intact.





Wack these ends off the stock SV subby.



That way I could sort out my rear tank mount.



So basically, this picture will sum it all up. Made up spacers to go from 1/2" to 5/16" bolts (not pictured, sorry.) The buell rails fit perfect in the sv frame, then bolt the rails and the cut off SV pieces in and then bolt the top of the stock sv tank mount to the sv frame pieces.

Easy peasy...



This time around the seat comes into the tank perfectly.





 
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