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Tekgnome's Screaming Banshee build thread.

4K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  Tekgnome 
#1 ·
Update! After over a year of putting the project aside I'm back and ready to finish it.

Current looks of the bike


The B12 engine is broken in and ready for the dyno


All engine services will be done through Pro Stock Performance & Dyno

Current mod status

Posts Kat 4.5" rim Installing
160/60/ZF17 shinko stealth installing
MPS Quick Shift Kit Purchased/Pending Install

Finished mods

Bandit 1157 swap Done
Wisco 1216 11:1 piston kitDone
1989 Gsxr 1100 intake camDone
Manual cam tensionerDone
Dyna 2000 ignition system Done
Dyna 3ohm coils Done
15/47 sprocket ratio Done
530 x-ring JPR chain Done
1"-4" lowering links Done
Dual Oval K&N pods Done
Dyno Jet kit Done
Gel Battery Done
Rebuild front and rear calipers Done
Rear wave rotor Done
All New Gaskets Done
LED Turn SignalsDone
R6 shockDone

Future mods

Paint job (Paint) Deciding
Barnett clutch spring Purchased
New fairings 50% done
Hydro Clutch Conversion Cover and slave cylinder purchased
2" extended swing arm Incomplete
High flow header Incomplete
Bigger Oil cooler Incomplete
New tail Incomplete
MPS Engine Kill Tether Incomplete

My friends nicknamed it banshee as it screams by them and scares the hell out of them

1995 Katana 750 frame.

Im aiming for 150hp with over 100lbs of torque.

My personal requirements.

pump gas
no overheating
Maneuver reasonably well

Misc notes

Bandit head has 28.5mm intakes and 25mm exhausts.
30mm in/26mm ex is largest w/out having to cut larger seats

Aprox
stock 28.5 mm valve unported.............95 cfm
stock 28.5 mm valve ported...............115 cfm
30 mm valve ported..........................125 cfm
31 mm valve with bigger seat ported...135 cfm
 
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#2 ·
11/1/15
Bike looked like this


Here is the original invoice, bike was dropped off 11/6/15


New engine arived 11/11/15


1157 installed on 11/28/15


1989 gsxr 1100 intake cam installed on 12/4/15


Invoice for the 1216 kit


Jugs are finished and engine re-assembly process started 04/14/17
 
#3 ·
I like the idea of this build, but this bit is counter-intuitive:

6" extended swing arm Incomplete

It has to be able to turn reasonable well.
If you're stretching any bike 6" it will not turn in as well as if you left it at near stock dimensions. That is, unless you're building a bift trike, which would give you a touch more stability. Not bashing the decision at all, it will look cool and you could drag race it for certain, but I don't want you to think it's going to improve handling only to be sorely disappointed when it doesn't.
 
#4 ·
I like the idea of this build, but this bit is counter-intuitive:

6" extended swing arm Incomplete

It has to be able to turn reasonable well.
If you're stretching any bike 6" it will not turn in as well as if you left it at near stock dimensions. That is, unless you're building a bift trike, which would give you a touch more stability. Not bashing the decision at all, it will look cool and you could drag race it for certain, but I don't want you to think it's going to improve handling only to be sorely disappointed when it doesn't.
Oh he'll I didn't even realize I still had that. 6" is way to much I'm thinking about going 2", 4" at the max.

Your absolutely right, the only thing I want to stretch it for is to help keep the front down from the torque of the B12.

Its been lowered about 2" already so depending on how squirrely it gets on a strip I might not stretch it at all.

If you have any suggestions or recommendations please fire away.
 
#5 ·
I think 4" would be a good stretch if you're pimarily going to the strip. That's a another place where the longer wheelbase will help you stabalize the bike but still streetable. For a more balanced build, I wouldn't go any longer than 2", you can still keep a large portion of your handling characteristics. Personally, I'd stay closer to stock geometry, but that's because I prefer twisties. Even with a lot of torque, you can handle the twisties, you just have to learn to finesse it in the curves. It's like trading in your classic Porsche 911 and getting a RUF Yellowbird.
 
#6 ·
Yea the biggest issue is that stock the Kat is top heavy, steel framed and horrible at turning.

The R6 shock I put on there should help a bit but I need to do something with the front forks.

I've chopped the frame and removed the sub frame so I cut about 25lbs off the top rear so far. It repositioned the weight forward a bit more whitch should also help keep her down.

Edgewater (local dragstrip) is only a 10 minute drive from my house. I'd like to use it primarily there but I also ride with friends. The issue is they have little 250-300cc pocket bikes and there is no way my Kat can stay in the curves with them. I think I need to buy a second bike.
 
#9 ·
I wish I could have.

I originally learned how to ride on this bike and over the years I have completely destroyed the body.

I'm not sure what i'm going to do to make it look like it didn't come from a dumpster.





Jugs are officially started and should be back from the machine shop soon.
 
#10 ·
IT'S FINALLY COMING TOGETHER!

After 2 years the engine is finished and next up to get re-assembled.

A Dyna 2000 ignition system is going to be added as well.






 
#13 ·
I put 200 miles on it last weekend, what a blast.



I turned my Kat back to pro stock for some new rubber and a post Katana wider rim conversion.
Friday I'll be back to pick it up and finish breaking in the new engine
 
#14 ·


Finally put 500 miles on her.

Now its time to go back to Pro Stock for the first oil change, dyno tune, Post katana wheel, MPS Quick shift, and MPS Kill tether.

The new wheel didnt get put on last week because the old rotor bolt pattern was different and we have to order a new rotor and bolts for the post hub
 
#16 ·
Sorry it just helps me keep track of everything ive done to it since the beginning.

So much has happend since it went from this


To this


I figured the first post would help any one new visiting the tread to look over it.
 
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