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2k SV650 build up, starting from near scratch....

55K views 71 replies 19 participants last post by  cRaZy8 
#1 ·
2k SV650 build, starting from near scratch- "The White Bitch"

Feels good to be back on the forum. Havent been on here in a few years, since I sold my F4i fighter.

I picked up my current project from a buddy two years ago for $1,000.

2000 Suzuki SV650, used to be his secondary stunt bike.
He sold it to me, telling me he didnt want to be responsible for holding anything back.
He said it had a blown engine (when in reality he didnt know what was wrong with it, and figured if he said its blown, I was already given the worst possible scenario).

First thing, I pulled the tank (3yr old fuel), and rigged up a couple hoses with a funnel to act as a tank.
Put a jump pack on the cables, added some fuel to my makeshift fuel supply, hit the starter, and she fired up. Ran for a few seconds before running out of fuel.
Did a compression test, both cylinders at 190 +/- a couple pounds.


Next step, I pulled the carbs off. They were full of junk. Lots of heavy corrosion inside from sitting for so long.
I picked up a set off eBay not too long ago for $80, with K&N pod filters, and already jetted for a full pipe. Ill be using these.

Also grabbed a K6 gixxer 1k front end, TWF bearing kit, and an SV1000 front wheel/rotors.

My boy gave me a ton of extra parts, a spare engine, seats, plastics, tank, wheels, levers etc. Way too much to list. Ill be selling a lot of it for very cheap. If you need any stock SV parts let me know.


I plan to :

-pull the motor, rebuild the bottom and top end (Ill do all this myself aside from the valve job)
-send the frame and swing arm out for powdercoat
-install the Gixxer front end
-install dirty bars, with custom hand guards (copying my original idea from my F4i)
-swap out the tank, current tank is damaged, I have a replacement (very clean exterior, just has rust on the inside, but he gave me a complete Kreme kit), paint the tank
-strip the rims down for paint, install new tires
-throw out the stock subframe, Ill be mounting a new tail to the bike not sure which one yet
-new sprockets and chain
-fix the exhaust, has a Micron full system, front pipe is banged up pretty good
-painting small pieces here and there to match
-replace the radiator, this one is pretty beat looking.


I think I am going with a black engine, black frame, black swinger, flat white tank, flat white tail, gold wheels to match gold forks. Not positive on the color scheme yet, but thats my first thought.
 
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#2 ·
Couple of pics from today. Brought it over to my HEATED shop (dont know how I did it before!).
I just lifted my truck and put bigger tires on it, I can no longer load and unload bikes by myself anymore. Gotta love having a fork lift around!





She is rough around the edges right now........




This is where I will be doing the build up.


Gixxer front end


Spare engine


Three sets of carbs


Extra parts

 
#4 ·
If you have the know how and the time, pull the valve cover on the front cylinder and look for heat damage on that SV.

They never caught on mainstream as a stunt bike because oiling to front cylinder is compromised when the motor is tilted on end from high-hung wheelies. I used to work for NCM and we would see blown SV650's come in with stunt cages on them. Guys had the money to buy the cage but were too cheap to have a shop help them run an oil line to the front valve cover off the pump to provide oiling. My guess is that motor has some excessive wear.



Good luck with the build! There is still a LOT of aftermarket support for the 1rst Gen SV. Lots of race goodies.
 
#13 ·
Hey Shane,
Do you have a DIY or info on how to run this line? I don't do much high wheelies, but it's always good to have extra lub on the head.
I'm sure it's not that hard to do, just need to dig in it, right?
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys.

oOnk- I am on SVrider, but dont post much. Ill check out your threads for sure.

Shane- good call bro. I tore both motors down today. Both have rod bearing issues. The one that was not in the bike had some slight scuffing on the crank journal. The one that was in the bike, oh boy.........

Crank journal from the motor in the bike:

This rod had about .25" of play before I unbolted the rod caps. One bearing had rolled part way under neath the other. Lots of blued metal from heat. As well as some metal transfer from the rod to the crank. Not good.

The bearings on the left are from the engine that was in a box, the bearings on the right are from the one in the bike:

As you can see, the ones on the right are frikken HAMMERED! They were significantly wider than the others, and much thinner. I didnt take pics, but the intake on this cylinder was also showing signs of heat/wear.

Couple more pics, all of these cylinders are in great shape, original cross hatch still there, no scuffing. All the pistons were in great shape as well, and only one cam showed signs of damage:

Anyone need some SV top end parts? HA!

Here is how the bike sits now:

 
#7 ·
Tomorrow I will finish stripping the frame, and start cleaning it and sanding it down. Its polished now, and I dont like the polished look. I was going to powder coat it, but I think I am going to spray it instead. Same with the swing arm.

I hope they match, but I just ordered a set of gold Tag fat bars for the gold Gixxer forks.

Also, I just bought a nice GSXR rear wheel and adapter kit. Probably gonna run a 190 on this little bitch.

One I get the swing arm off and clean, I am bringing it to my buddies house for some welding. Im going to have him add some custom bracing. He is one hell of a fabricator, and his shop is simply amazing. Ill be sure to take pics of his shop.

Shane, do you know what needs to be done to add an oil line to the front cylinder???

Oh yeah, anybody have an extra motor they wanna sell?!
 
#9 ·
Thats an idea Id be open to. Seeing that I have two blown motors right now........
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
Awesome pick up man. The 1000 and 650 are actually way different. But anything is doable. Just depends on how much work you want to do. Also do not use kreem for the tank. Do some searching on here. There are way better ways for inside tanks, there's just too many things that go wrong with kreem. I will be following this build. Love me some SV


On a side note you wouldn't happen to have a spare radiator would you? I need one for my 2nd gen and the 1st gen rads are narrower.
 
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#15 ·
Finished stripping everything down today. Not one bolt left untouched.
Tomorrow will be cleaning of the frame and swinger. Paint the frame.


Also have to clean up some small random pieces here and there for paint.
Anybody need a Sprocket Specialists 50T rear???
 
#16 ·
Oh yeah, seeing that both of my cranks are fukkin shot, I bought a Gen2 engine. Picking it up tomorrow AM.
Local guy (i got lucky on that one, hes only 45min away).
$500 and its only got 500 miles on it!
SCORE.

I was thinking about upgrading to a GSXR rear wheel. But, it looks the same as my stock wheel, and it only upgrades to a 180 tire. Costs about $400-500. Just for a larger tire? Ill spend my money else where.
If I want a bigger tire later on, I may do a swing arm swap.
But for now Ill keep my 160 and rock that shit!
 
#18 ·
Back at it again today.

Picked up my new motor. 2005 w/500 miles since a refresh.
One problem, its the wrong color!!!!

I have some spray engine enamel. Ill paint it tmrw.


Scuffed up my buddies pretty polishing job. Sent him a pic today, funny to hear him cry about his bling getting murdered lol.


My paint booth:


Coat of primer first, then two coats of paint. Probably two more tmrw.
All colors work well, as long as they are black:



I almost forgot how much I liked working on bikes. Havent worked on any since I tore down my brother in laws 954RR about 3-4 yrs ago. So much nicer than working on boats.
 
#19 ·
it's coming along good man.
 
#20 ·
Sorry to hear about your motors man. Hopefully you can get it sorted quick. If you want a fun fighter just keep the motor stock and throw some fcr flat slide carbs on it.


Side note: powder coating is WAY more scratch resistant than spray paint. If you want a nice durable finish when your bolting it back together, now is the time to send it out for coating. It wOuld look rad and stand the test of time. Plus, you could get different textures like truck liner look, wrinkle black, distressed, flake, etc.
 
#22 ·
From this:


To this:

 
#23 ·
I need get make some longer dog bones. The stock ones are too short with the ZX10R shock. The bottom spring cup just barely rubs the swing arm.

Also, I like the look of the frame and swing arm in all black, but I am starting to second think the spray paint. Almost thinking of pulling it apart again to get it PC'd.........
 
#24 ·
Ill be back at it today, had to fix my truck last week. One injector decided to shit the bed. Fukkin diesels, I remember when diesels were "bullet proof" and "dependable".........

Probably gonna try to get the motor painted this week, and get over to my buddies to get some aluminum to make my subframe brackets. The R6 tail is gonna take some work to get it to fit. None of the mounts line up. Then I have to build an undertray for the tail.

Oh yeah, and I got a big box the other dy from my buddy, bunch of odd ball pieces of header pipe. We built a set of headers for his 64 Falcon a couple years ago from scratch. He gave me all the scrap pieces. Time to make a custom exhaust!!! Now I cant decide if I want to go with an undertail, or an under motor exhaust........
 
#25 ·
Im am doing both. Undertail and under engine.
 
#27 ·
Nah, it doesnt sit too high, I was trying to figure out a way to move the shock away from the swingarm. Instead, I ordered a 636 shock. The 636 shock is .5" narrower than the ZX10 shock.

Apparently the ZX10 shock only fits the Gen2 SV.

Im still thinking about sending the big parts out for powder coat...........
 
#28 ·
is the only difference in the two shocks the size? meaning any one better than the other performance wise?
 
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