For the first few issues of the newsletter, I will be writing a small series of tutorials on various types of soldering, from splicing wires to soldering to circuit boards.

Part 1: Splicing Wires

• soldering iron - make sure it's between 15-45 watts, the best ones have interchangeable tips
• solder - Use a rosin-core solder, match the thickness of the solder to the thickness of the wires you are soldering, DO NOT USE acid core solder!
• soldering iron holder - makes things MUCH easier and less dangerous!
• damp sponge - most soldering iron holders come with one that fits in a little tray on the base of the holder
• wire cutters - if soldering thin wires, scissors should be sufficient
• wire strippers - these are ideal, but in a pinch you can use other tools, such as a leatherman, and some pliers, just be careful not to cut off the strands of wire

First, you need to plug in your soldering iron for about 5 minutes so it reaches the right temperature (around 500-800 degrees fahrenheit).

While the iron is warming up, prepare your wires by using your wire strippers to strip back some of the coating to expose the bare wire.

In order to keep electricity flowing through the connection smoothly, you do not want your final joint to be much larger than the original wires. To do this, split the strands of bare wire in half, pulling each half to the side. Using sharp scissors or wire cutters, snip

off half of the strands. That way, when spliced with the other wire (also with half the strands removed from the end) the thickness will be close to the original wires. Repeat this step for the other wire you wish to splice with.

Now, straighten out the bare strands and twist them to make a nice smooth end.

Then, make an "X" with the wire ends, and twist them together, making sure to make the twists as tight and close as possible.

Remember to try to keep the thickness close to the original wire!

By now, the soldering iron should be hot enough. Wipe the tip of the iron on the sponge (BE SURE ITS DAMP!). This will clean any residue on the tip, as well as any oxidation.

Now you need to "tin" the tip of the soldering iron. Melt just a tiny amount of solder onto the tip so that it's coated. If you have a big drop hanging off the end, it's too much, wipe off the excess on your sponge.

Touch the coated tip to your spliced wire joint and apply more solder to it at the same time. The solder should "magically" cover the whole joint with a small puff of smoke (don't breathe that smoke!) Do not move the wires around while the solder is cooling, or you may end up with a "cold solder joint" which doesn't connect cleanly.

Your joint should be smooth and shiny, if you can see the wires still, you have what's called a dry joint, it means you need more solder. Make sure all sides of the joint are totally covered in solder.

Like anything, it may take a little practice, so do a few dry runs on some spare wires before tearing into the wire harness of your beloved fighter!

Remember, solder is conductive (meaning it will transfer electricity), so you MUST cover up the joint afterwards, or it could lead to shorting, sparking, melting, burning, and other terrible things!

The ideal way is to use heat shrink tubing, available at any hardware store, Radio Shack or similar store. If you use heat shrink tubing, make sure you slip a piece of it onto one of the wires to be soldered BEFORE making your connection. Make sure you slide the heat shrink far away from the joint you are soldering so it doesn't shrink while you are soldering. After your joint is made and cooled down, slide the piece of heat shrink tubing over the joint, and heat it up until it shrinks down and completely covers the joint.

If you don't have heat shrink tubing, you can use electrical tape, just make sure you wrap it very tightly around the entire connection. Start and end the tape at least 1/4"-1/2" away from the joint so it can stick to the wire coating.