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Looking at a small-ish Sharp mill, thoughts?

1K views 24 replies 3 participants last post by  Junkie 
#1 ·
Came across this.







Sharp Vertical Mill, single phase, good condition.



What's a reasonable price for it? Any guesses on tool holding? The guy isn't sure (a friend of his died, he's selling it for the widow). Any guess on weight? Looks smaller than a bridgeport so I'm guessing I should be able to throw it in my '73 Chevy C20 Camper Special (3/4 ton but almost 1 ton) with utility bed no problem.

Anything specific I should check out on it? I don't really have room for a full size but I can manage to fit this.

Loading would be by forklift, unloading will be by cherry picker... that's gonna be interesting.
 
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#2 ·
To compare: currently I have a little HF 44991 (aka Sieg X2) POS. It's way better than nothing, but not very good. I don't really want to dump money into a DRO on something as small as it is (by the time I install the vise I don't have much room to the spindle, if I run a drill chuck I almost have to run stubby bits)
 
#3 ·
No idea on spindle taper, but that unit would be a huge step up from what you have. Simply for the adjustable knee. Make sure to check the ways to make sure it's not clapped out, check motor for noises and quill for play. Probably weighs about 750lbs. Should be fine in your truck.
 
#5 ·
I take it to check the ways I hook up a dial indicator, wiggle, move, wiggle, repeat, see how much it changes (as I should be able to tighten them)

how much play in the quill is reasonable?
 
#6 ·
Any play in the quill is bad as it will get worse as it extends. It's an indication of bad bearings (which could be replaced, depending on how adventurous you are).

Take a quick look on google for how to inspect machine ways. Ideally they will be very smooth and even and show signs of scraping, worst case they will show hard wear from lack of cleaning and lubrication. Gibs can be tightened to compensate for a worn area, but will then be tight in a less worn area.
 
#7 ·
That looks quite a bit like my Select 6x26” mill. I bought mine in pretty good condition with a bunch off endmills, collets, and a vice for $1000. Had to rent a engine hoist to take apart and move it to my garage.

Later, Doug
 
#8 ·
That might be an option. Removing the head would make me feel way better about it not falling over etc in the back of the truck etc.
 
#9 ·
Regarding tying it down: what should I attach to on it? Is there such thing as too tight (other than the limits of the mount points on my truck)?
 
#10 ·
See if you can get your straps between the pulley box and the horizontal head shaft. Minimum of 2, one to each side. Then do a minimum of 2 on the bottom also. Bring sling straps in case the hooks won't pass through, or use the strap end of spare ratchet tie downs to loop through and tie off to give a hook hold. Tight as you like without folding your box sides in, better it you drill through the bed to the frame rail, better yet if you borrow a trailer as your picker may not extend high enough to lift the machine from the bed.

When I hauled my Bridgeport, I lagged 2x4's to the trailer floor all around the machine base to keep it from shifting, and i used 4 large cargo ratchet straps off the top of the column pulling to each corner to keep it from tipping. It never moved an inch even though I had to pull it from Long Island through NYC roads which are like driving through a mine field.

As I do with any type of load, I stopped 10-20min into the drive to recheck the straps to make sure nothing moved, settled, or came loose. It was all tight all the way home.

I did break my machine down, I brought a pallet to lay the head on and I simply strapped it down after laying it in there with the forklift. Table was laid on a moving blanket in the bed.
 
#11 ·
How hard is pulling the head likely to be? Any wild ass guess on head weight?
 
#12 ·
Junkie said:
How hard is pulling the head likely to be? Any wild ass guess on head weight?


I think I looked up machine weight when I bought mine and the entire machine was 650-800lbs. I took the head off mine by removing the two nuts holding it to the column. My guess is the head weighs approximately 200lbs. But that’s a guess. Most of the weight will be in the column, table, and base.

Later, Doug

 
#13 ·
Apparently he isn't available until next weekend but I got a little more info

table is 8x27, the only model designation on it is SM, serial 70773, uses R8 collets, 1.5hp
 
#15 ·
#16 ·
#17 ·
The Sharp looks like the beefier machine. Gonna have to look at both and see which one has issues or is in better shape.

The full set of collets and tooling is nice, but that Rockwell head looks a bit anemic IMO. I don't think either of them nod, but if one did it would be the Rockwell. An angle plate would be a good workaround if it suits your workpiece, no need to re-tram the head.
 
#18 ·
I haven't dealt with anything in between a Bridgeport (or clone) and my 44991 so I don't know what to expect.

All of the tooling (and the fact that it's <5mi from me vs 50) are a large part of why I was considering that... but it's SPF. If the buyer falls through I'll take a look.

It looks to me like the Sharps would be easy enough to tram in both directions with some shims but I could be wrong.
 
#19 ·
picked it up yesterday, was really glad that I borrowed a trailer when it came time to unload :eek:



TIR on the spindle was around .0001 so the headstock bearings seemed to be in good shape, very minimal change in table backlash comparing all the way one way vs dead center (.0015 or so) so I don't think it's seen a whole lot of use. This was used by a (wealthy) hobbyist who died not long ago, so that makes sense.

any suggestions on a reasonably priced power feed or DRO?

I think I need to pick up a bigger vise than my Kurt D40 too, there's a D60 that looks to be in good shape for $250 fairly close so I might go grab that. Includes a swivel base but I'm not sure if it'd see any use.
 
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#20 ·
Congrats! I'm happy with my chinese dro so far (Jing, ebay). Shars is not bad either, I have some new parts I didn't put on my mini mill. If they'll work for you I'll let them go cheap
 
#21 ·
I was surprised that the table can go over to where the knee sticks out beyond that, so if I want full table travel I'll need to pick up a fairly long DRO.
 
#23 ·
I can't find specs on this thing ANYWHERE, emailed Sharps and didn't get a reply. Can't get down there to measure it until at least this weekend (which is mostly booked for a friend's memorial), hoping I can get my cousin to take a look.

I think total X travel is on the order of 20", quill 4" or so, not sure on Y travel - 8" maybe?
 
#25 ·
I'm looking at what a guy claims to be a Kurt D60 that's been repainted. It's missing the tag on the side (and has been repainted), but has D60 forged into the bottom (or so he claims, haven't seen it in person yet).

Any chance it's a knockoff?

$225 with a swivel base (but no handle), no apprentice marks that I can see in the pics either, so it seems pretty cheap.





the D40 is a little on the small side for this machine, so my eyes are open for a deal on a 6" and came across this
 
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