not much done over the last couple of days, ordered some more bits and bobs, still waiting on bits back from*
coating, Brian said he had finished head and cam cover yesterday and will be getting packed up today.
need oil cooler brackets back from Taff, so i can sort mounting of fan (arrived yesterday) and then frame needs to go back down to Mick (Redsix) for
welding fan mounts, some small plates, pillion foot peg mountings and lock stops, still waiting on battery box, top has been machined, just needs other half doing.
managed to find a pucker Ohlins pre load adjuster bracket when i was browsing the web, came this afternoon,changed *out the bracket i made out of a fork clamp.
I know some will say "why"
but i wanted one*for the build, if i could find one. now sorted
got the h/lamp done, M blaze pins mounted with alloy spacers, wire exiting through the rear, will drill some small holes through the webs on the rear of the lamp and feed the wire
through to where the harness plugs in.
sorted the Ducati radiator mounts onto the oil cooler brackets,**will look at mounting the oil cooler tomorrow, going to use some rivnuts into the frame down tubes.
Had a go at doing the main bearing shell clearances today, used the old shells that came out when i stripped the motor,
had to start with known crank case halves and shells, but the crank has had the journal sizes machined off when it was lightened.
after doing the plastiguage thing, it would appear that they are all over size so not too much of a problem as four of them are Brown shells so
I have ordered 4 Yellow shells to replace them, but two sets of shells have no colour marking! I will change them with two of the Brown ones i am removing
as i didnt have any plastigauge left to do the crank oil clearance checks, i dug the Yoshi valve spring kit out and set about fitting it.
well it turned into a rather different to the usual job, first off i had to get google translate on the job, as with all Yoshi bits the fitting instructions were in Japanese FFS.
even with translation it wasnt easy to understand, but i stumbled on and sort of found my way as i went.
seems that you have to A) measure the valve stem protrusion from the head, B) measure the spring seat thickness C) measure the spring retainer lip thickness,* D)then assemble the valve into the head and measure the amount of valve stem protruding above/below the spring retainer.
carry out the following equation X = A-B-C-D* (X is the spring compressed length measurement = 31.8mm +/_* 0.2mm)
if X isnt within tolerance, then there is a bag full of 0.5 and 0.8 shims that will need fitting!
As it is The guy that did my valve job did a fucking brilliant job of cutting the valves in, they were almost the same depth across the whole head, so all the valves have gone in and do not require any shims as they are all within Factory spec, *
Result, well almost, as i was expecting to have to remove the valves after the measuring to fit shims, i haven't fitted any valve stem oil seals. so tomorrows job it to remove them all and fit some oil seals, before re fitting all the valve springs again*
today was a good day working on the head, removed all the valve springs and added the valve stem oil seals, then re fitted them,
but before going to far into it, I fitted a set of valves with stem seals and spring seats, then checked that the top spring seat had lots of clearance to the stem seal at full lift.
ended up with around 3mm of clearance, jobs a good un.
re assembled all the other bits like rockers and adjusters.
Been over to SNT race engineering this afternoon, ooooooh i like what i saw, have left some bits for machining, and have asked for a price on some of there Billet loveliness,
look forward to hearing from /doing more business with them :
I have been waiting on some S/steel springs to arrive, T hey came this afternoon, i needed them to try and hold the Tygon tubing in shape when i put a sharp bend in it.
never got a reply to my interest in some water cutting, or from another firm that does laser cutting???? you would think small firms dont need any work any more?
so i have talked to SNT about making me some brackets to their design used on the XR69 out of my Titanium plate**
going round to collect my Forks from them tomorrow sometime and drop the plates off.
popped down to SNT to drop off the plates and collect my forks, great job on the calliper seats, removed 5mm from the calliper seating face, now the pads sit well below the outside edge of the disc and give me a small amount of adjust-ability for pad manufacturer differences.
i will now get some 2mm spacers sorted to finish off with the pads around 1mm from the disc edge where i want them.
had a tinker around with the rear mud guard and reg plate fitment, i cut the mud guard down and made it fit the line of the rear lamp, needs cleaning up a
bit yet, but it isnt far off from what i am after,
i then cut a hole in it and mounted the plate bracket to the rear seat support, turned out great, keeps the reg plate under the tail and neat.
did the indicator wires on the back of the head lamp by drilling through the cooling webs to keep the wires out of the way and hidden.
lined up the indicators and set them in place, wires now sit with the h/lamp loom in one cover round the steering stem.
today was one of them days, when even just small things come together and make you smile, calliper spacers arrived, test and pads now sit exactly where i wanted them, bloody made for the job.
then 45deg stainless steel brake hose adapters turned up all the way from Oz. now lines sit perfect.
then just coz i could, i fitted the clutch/brake lines with dry break connectors for a test, sitting just fine and even.
only throttle cables to come, to add clutter to the balanced harmony*
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