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"Fancy Feast" GSXR 600

7K views 41 replies 15 participants last post by  F'dup 
#1 ·
Okay, I am not able to resist the urge to fighter this GSXR600. So here we go. I got it real cheap from a local guy that flipped it while doing wheelies. Tons of damage, but it has so many blingy aftermarket bits, I went for it.

The day I got it:



Plastic hell:



Tail tacked back together and results:









Found out the wreck smashed a whole bunch of cracks into the oil pan, but the flange area was fully intact so liberal JB Weld comes to the rescue! Also, a gasket from the official gasket supplier of CF, a frosted flakes box.

 
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#4 ·
I gotta be honest, I'm glad that youre not going to usethe parts you got from me lol. Been wanting to see this model gsxr fightered. Crack on with it bro. I'll be watching.
 
#7 ·
1. put oil pan on cereal box
2. trace outline very carefully
3. mark center of all bolt holes with pointy pen
4. cut outline with scissors (be careful not to bend the cardboard, it does not seal as well if it gets creased)
5. cut out inner hole (I just space 10 mm or so from outside)
6. cut bolt holes (easiest if you have a hole-punch, but i used a razor blade because I dont have one)
7. mount and tighter down 4 corners gradually to avoid binding
 
#8 ·
a buddy of mine had the same bike. and i think he still has some parts leftover. hed let some go cheap as hes poor and just wants it gone. let me know if theres anything you need, i can look. i know i have a whole tail for it
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the offers dudes! Motor seems good, I just got it running yesterday (yay!) I might like some parts from ya piester ... I would love a fresh subframe if i can find one for a really good price .. I am still having trouble coming up with a sturdy mounting fixture for bending this one back into shape. Im sending you a PM right now.
 
#11 ·
I'd get the sump pan welded if I were you, JB weld is ok for a get you home bodge job, but I wouldn't trust it on the sump pan, I wouldn't want oil leaking through and ending up all over the rear tyre.
 
#13 ·
I would weld it if i knew what metal it was .. but all the fancy crap on engine covers these days put me off of it. Too much cast crappy aluminum and magnesium floating around. I trust JB on my engine covers as long as there are no cracks on the flanges. It has held up well on two other engine covers over the years.
 
#14 ·
If it is magnesium based it will say so on the inside of the pan, it is more likely to be ally. If you don't want to have it welded, then there is the option of ally brazing, you'll need to use a die grinder to Vee out the cracks, and the clean them out with a solvent or petrol, and the stainless wire brush included in the kit.
Then preheat the sump in the oven to around 200C befre effecting a repair with a propane torch and the ally brazing rods, you can repair it solidly.
I've repaired side covers this way for powder coating, as well as reconstructing GSXR camcap towers that have been damaged, and rethreading them for the M7 camcover bolts. If you clean it properly and prepare it the low temperature braze repair will be fine, and it will be a lasting repair, unlike JB weld which is a bodge up not a repair.
 
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#17 ·
How about bodge job number two?!

Stock gauges were a little banged up. They still work, just have cracked clear cover. I'm not the type to shell out $100+ for new gauges, so I figured I would try and repair the clear cover. Might be handy for someone else.

Before:



I started by disassembling the unit. The "glass" is glued into the top, so I just cracked it all out and removed all the pieces. I ground the glued section down flat and added a slight bevel that opens up toward the inside.



Then i went looking for some new glass. I tried to find Lexan, but couldnt find any locally. I ended up going with plexiglass. It's a little less scratch resistant .. but it only cost me $4 for a sheet big enough to make a couple attempts. I made a template with cardboard and transfered then cut it. I did the final cut with a dremel, adding a corresponding bevel to the edge.



I then glued it in with 5 minute clear epoxy. It's drying now, but I will post final pics later. Looking good at the moment!!
 
#18 ·
There's nothing wrong with that, I've repaired damaged clocks myself using the same sort of stuff. If you want to use glass, then find your local glass shop or picture framers, the will have non reflective picture glass which is usually about 2mm thick, and is ideal for reglazing clocks with, especially the non reflective stuff it makes the clocks much easier to see in sunlight.
 
#19 ·
This one is put back on the front burner!! I just got married and the wife just completed her basic riders course, so this is going to be her first bike. Don't think she'll be on the 900RR or the Speed triple right away :)

She wants it to be finished soon so she volunteered to D some of the W ...

Did I mention I have the best wife ever?

 
#23 ·
Yeah, its been a while since I updated on it! I have been working on it little bits here and there, but I figured they were mostly uninteresting. I found out the bottom triple was tweaked, so I replaced it with a Yamaha R1 unit I had laying around. Luckily, the GSXR750 forks are the same diameters! The damn offsets are different, though, so the awesome custom top triple wouldn't fit over the R1 bottom trip. So I am currently using the Yam top trip and modifying it so I can still use the GSXR ignition and steering lock.

The custom gas tank is going on hold for now. I figured the dash mounted into the front of the gas tank is not good for a beginning rider, too much looking down to see your speed etc. So I bought a badly dented tank off ebay and knocked out most of the dents from the inside. Copious amounts of bondo are curing at the moment. The lady wanted flat black, so easy peasy!

I know ... :ttiwwop:

Ill have some updated ones today.
 
#27 ·
Well as I understand it, synthetic doesnt get "thick" at colder temps like conventional oil. So it flows/lubricates better. One reason ppl recommend synthetic for colder areas; better cold start performance. Could be why it seeps out. Probably happens when its sitting over time. While its running the oil is warm and moving. Less likely to seep out.
 
#26 ·
So the engineer in me has to ask.

WTF is with the cereal box gasket? I have reused gaskets (meh) and I have made my own from a little RTV or grey silicone (pretty good). But why just use a piece of cardboard when silicon is going to give you a much better seal?
 
#28 ·
I use cereal boxes when I can get away with it, but since this bike has synthetic oil, and leaked for months with the cereal box gasket, I actually switched over to RTV when I replaced the oil pan with a new one. The reason you should stay away from using RTV on oil pans is because when it squeezes out on the inside of the flange, those excess bits can flake off and clog the oil pickup, starving your engine of oil and exploderizing it. SEEN IT HAPPEN! I was just really careful to use small amounts of it, let cure after finger tightening, then torque down to avoid inside squeeze as much as possible.
 
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