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Smoker's Custom Motard

415K views 2K replies 180 participants last post by  crazypj 
#1 ·
Been thinking A LOT about building a custom two-stroke motard. :D

I've got a nice 1987 RZ350, completely bone stock. I REALLY hate to strip it down to build a custom, but it's probably the best thing to do. It's already registered and plated here in California, so that will avoid a lot of future hassles.

So, now is the time for planning the build. Any ideas you guys may have would be much appreciated. I'll post up my ideas, and will get the work started when I feel comfortable with the design.

I want to use the existing RZ350 frame and engine, beyond that - it's wide open!! Soon, I'll post pics of the bike as it is now.

Here is a custom motard built with the same engine and frame:









 
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#1,546 ·
oh, sorry. my understanding of CDI is basic at best but I think that the relay is used to ground the capacitor in the CDI. if it isnt switched to ground to drain the capacitor off the ignition will continue to operate until the capacitor charge is used up, which I dont think will happen as the stator is still providing power to the CDI while the engine is spinning. the relay doesnt provide any power, just a ground to discharge the capacitor and kill ignition.

Normally, terminal 30 would provide power to 87 when the relay is activated but in this set-up it grounds the capacitor out. I would imagine a regular kill switch would work but I dont know how an M-Unit integrates into the ignition system. Kinda looks like this setup just makes ignition off controllable through the M-Unit switches.

If Im wrong, please correct me (anybody). Im certainly no expert here, just trying to figure it out like you...
 
#1,547 ·
It appears as if the M-Unit wants to control the kill switch in place of standard kill switch on the handlebars. Maybe this is for the M-unit to have a smaller rated switch send the signal to the unit and then kill the power.

If you are still using the handlebar kill switch, I would assume that you can ignore this whole installation step.
 
#1,549 ·
Trying to figure out how to wire up the left handlebar switches using the m-unit.

Not as easy as I hoped. The headlight wires come out of the switch housing. Looks like I'll need to cut them and run them to the m-unit and back.

Using the switchgear (#47) from a WR250X.
Will report progress in a minute.

 
#1,555 ·
Should be fairly easy, looks like the mUnit is "basically" a bank of relays, along with some other fancy stuff. This is oversimplifying it's functionality, but as far as your switch wiring goes it's a good analogy.

Run power to the input of the switch, the switch wiring outputs to the input side of the mUnit, and the output side of the mUnit to whatever needs powered.
 
#1,556 ·
WR250X switchgear has 3 connectors. This is how I did it. (So far.)

#1 has 3 wires, Yellow, DkGreen, and Brown. (To dash indicator lights.)
Yellow- to high beam indicator light. Works!!
DkGreen- to right turn indicator light. BAD. Indicator light stays on all the time.
Brown- to left turn indicator light. BAD. Indicator light stays on all the time.

So, high beam indicator light working. DkGreen & Brown wires are disconnected.

#2 has 3 wires, Yellow, Green, and Black. (To Headlight.)
Yellow- to headlight, then to high beam indicator light. Works!!
Green- to headlight. Works!!
Black- to headlight, then to ground. Grounded.

Low/high beam switch, headlight, and indicator light working.

#3 has 6 wires.
Pink- to m-unit Horn In, m-unit Horn Out, to horn, to ground. Works!!
Black- to ground. Grounded.
DkGreen- to m-unit Turn Right in, m-unit Turn Right out, to signal lamp, to ground.
.................also signal lamp to indicator light, to ground. Works!!
Brown- to m-unit Turn Left in, m-unit Turn Left out, to signal lamp, to ground.
.................also signal lamp to indicator light, to ground. Works!!
Blue- to m-unit AUX (key switched power)Works!!
Tan/Blue- to ground. Grounded.

Turn signals, indicator lights, and horn working.
 
#1,557 ·
For the headlight, run the power out of the mUnit (Light and High Beam) to the low and high terminals of your headlamp plug.

You run either the yellow or green wire (whichever is high beam) from the switch gear to the input side "Light" of the mUnit.

The low beam wire from the switch doesn't look like it's needed. I'm assuming it's controlled by the ignition switch input.

The high beam indicator can get power either from the switch wire to the mUnit, or the power wire from the mUnit to the socket. I'd probably grab it from the switch...
 
#1,560 ·
Ordered some wire from 4RCustomsWire.

Found their pricing interesting.

Pack of (6) 5ft wires = $17.95. Same price for a pack of (6) 10ft wires.

Pack of (10) 10ft wires = $23.95. Same price for a pack of (10) 25ft wires.

Other weird stuff, too. Calculated it all out to get the best deal, without buying a shitload of extra wire.

Got some 3M dielectric grease.

Any suggestions for an inexpensive soldering iron/gun?
 
#1,562 ·
I've always used these crimp splices and good heat shrink, but the money you would save on a soldering iron would be spent on a crimping tool...




http://www.cycleterminal.com/splice-terminals.html


Always a trade off. With solder you have to make sure you get a good hot, shiny joint, and with the crimps you have to make sure that they are crimped properly so the wires cannot pull free.

As to which is better? You'll find differing opinions on it, but keep in mind the manufacturers pretty much crimp everything... YMMV.
 
#1,563 ·
OEM's dont have the time to solder joints. They are pumping out stuff fast as they can sell it. They also don't want their products to last forever, putting them out of a job. Nothing against crimps, just playing Devil's Advocate. There's arguments for & against both methods. I do both depending on what I'm doing.
 
#1,565 ·
There's arguments for & against both methods. I do both depending on what I'm doing.
That there is. I think the most important thing is, if you are doing crimps, get a good crimping tool and make sure your crimps are done properly. If you are doing solder, make sure you don't get cold joints. I'd support either with quality heat shrink regardless.

This is a pretty good article about it:

https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/
 
#1,564 ·
I'm afraid of using crimp splices, only because of lack of experience.

I did a little wire soldering in Bancroft Junior High electric shop. :rock:

Thanks, Larry for helping me along.

I might I have one of those pencil torches somewhere. Will poke around and see if I can find it.
 
#1,566 ·
I'm afraid of using crimp splices, only because of lack of experience.
With a good crimper and a little practice, they are much easier and faster than soldering.

I believe each method has it's proper place, but with stranded wire in a possibly high heat and high vibration area I personally prefer crimping.

Shiny's right though, everyone is going to have their preference and reasons for one method or another.
 
#1,571 ·
on the suspension bolts, is that just a center in the threaded end or are they drilled most of the way through?
 
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#1,572 ·
Some of you guys never miss a thing. :D

Machinist had to put a divot in the threaded end, I guess, to hold it properly in the lathe for cutting the threads, etc.

Very happy Bill called me and asked if a divot is okay.

Fuck no, it's not okay. None of my other hardware has that. I told Bill to drill it out. I do have plenty of drilled/lightened bolts.

Because I'm no engineer, I don't know how much I can drill out of the suspension bolts.

On these bolts, the hole doesn't go very far past the threads. Not fully drilled, for safety.
 
#1,575 ·
Since I posted this pic of the new kill switch, I've been trying to figure it out.



Was confused by this info in the service manual:



Looks like I need a normally closed kill switch. The switch I have, and all the ones I see like it are normally open. The normally closed kill switches I see are all larger teathered switches.

Kept searching, and found this info from a vendor. Looks like I'm good to go because I'm using a Zeeltronic CDI.

"If you want a kill switch you will connect the black/white wire on the PCDI-10VT to a normally open switch with the other side of the switch connected to ground."

Now, I think maybe I don't need the Normally Closed Relay. Not sure. I did find it, and the matching wiring plug on Ebay for less than $10usd.

 
#1,576 ·
Fuck me, almost 3 am. Took 2 pain pills and a sleeping pill. Still in too much pain to sleep.

Speaking of pain, can you guess what happened with my latest parts order? :D

Of course it got fucked up! Ordered and paid for 2 pieces. Invoice says 2 pieces. Received only one piece in the box. Fuck, fuck and double-fuck.

Ever see one of these? I've never noticed one on any bike I've seen.



Hopefully, I'll be getting another one soon.

Should be cool if they work well.
 
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