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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-23-2018, 02:35 PM   #231
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for a hour or so if you cant get your hands on a scanner. A cheap code reader is usually reasonably priced on ebay and is pretty handy to have around.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-23-2018, 02:38 PM   #232
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

I got a cheap simple scanner to erase the codes. It won't go any deeper but will zero out the OBD memory.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 11:39 AM   #233
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HEVON PERSE! Sensor swapped, codes erased, MIL still on...

The fault for the IAT went away but sadly it wasn't the only one that kept the light on. Right now I am getting only one code so it should narrow things down. The code in question is P0347 "camshaft position sensor bank2 circuit low". The sensor itself has recently been changed so it's not that. Wiring loom related maybe? That'll be a hoot to track down... Gotta check my battery's condition next, right now the car is thawing in my neighbour's garage for saturday.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 03:03 PM   #234
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

I would check the connector for the sensor, Ive seen the terminals spread just enough to make a weak connect and throw codes like that. was the sensor a factory sensor or aftermarket? had iffy luck with aftermarket stuff on volvos.

kinda oddball, but, has the trans been out of your car recently? the engine and trans on these cars has to be clear of any corrosion at the bell housing or it interferes with the grounding. Ive seen a few that have bad ground straps or bell housing corrosion and all kinds of odd electrical gremlins appear, crazy tach jumping when cranking/running, no starts, weird light flickering and warning lights on the dash.

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They can ban, outlaw, and restrict whatever they please. I'll keep doing whatever the fuck I'm doing, because I don't really give a shit. The only thing that will change is that I'll be breaking their made up bullshit rules while doing it, and I'm comfortable with that.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 03:11 PM   #235
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Speaking of Volvos and sensors, I need to replace the MAF sensor on my 2003 C70 T5. I don't have a fault code scanner so I can't clear faults - can I just disconnect the battery, swap the sensor and leave the battery disconnected for a while to clear the warning light? Or will I need it plugged in and cleared?

I'm not experienced with cars made after 1990, so apologies if this is a daft question

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 03:13 PM   #236
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

Quote:
Originally Posted by Natan View Post
Speaking of Volvos and sensors, I need to replace the MAF sensor on my 2003 C70 T5. I don't have a fault code scanner so I can't clear faults - can I just disconnect the battery, swap the sensor and leave the battery disconnected for a while to clear the warning light? Or will I need it plugged in and cleared?

I'm not experienced with cars made after 1990, so apologies if this is a daft question
disconnecting the battery for a while should do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcantar View Post
They can ban, outlaw, and restrict whatever they please. I'll keep doing whatever the fuck I'm doing, because I don't really give a shit. The only thing that will change is that I'll be breaking their made up bullshit rules while doing it, and I'm comfortable with that.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 03:28 PM   #237
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

Good stuff, thanks!

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 03:51 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxGRYMMxX View Post
I would check the connector for the sensor, Ive seen the terminals spread just enough to make a weak connect and throw codes like that. was the sensor a factory sensor or aftermarket? had iffy luck with aftermarket stuff on volvos.

kinda oddball, but, has the trans been out of your car recently? the engine and trans on these cars has to be clear of any corrosion at the bell housing or it interferes with the grounding. Ive seen a few that have bad ground straps or bell housing corrosion and all kinds of odd electrical gremlins appear, crazy tach jumping when cranking/running, no starts, weird light flickering and warning lights on the dash.
No the trans hasn't been out but the ground straps is one thing to add on my checklist during saturday. TBH I don't remember the sensor manufacturer, it wasn't from stealership but could have been "OEM quality" . Gonna check the terminals and the connector in general, if it doesn't do it might splash out and just go get an Optima battery to get more juice out...

I read from somewhere that the lumpy idling could be caused by this too. It idles normally then suddenly sort of "clears it's throat" by dipping the revs down and stuttering a little bit. The warmer the weather + the warmer the engine = the more it does it, dropping to neutral makes it a little softer.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 01-25-2018, 06:33 PM   #239
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Default Re: Chat with an ASE Master Technician

cam/crank correlation is important on variable valve timed vehicles. if the two sensors dont agree, the timing can slip out of the normal range and run rough.

If the battery is suspect, change it first. Weak batteries and Euro vehicles dont mix well either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcantar View Post
They can ban, outlaw, and restrict whatever they please. I'll keep doing whatever the fuck I'm doing, because I don't really give a shit. The only thing that will change is that I'll be breaking their made up bullshit rules while doing it, and I'm comfortable with that.

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Old Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum Post 04-10-2018, 03:45 PM   #240
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The Volvo issue is still on the table due to me having way too much other stuff on my plate before that. Speaking of:

Patient: Peugeot Partner Van 2004, 1,9D N/A.

Issue: Hard cold start.

Symptoms: Even if the car has been "on leash" for the night it`s super hard to get going in the morning. When I try to start it it does "promise" with one cylinder but I still gotta crank it till the battery starts to give in before I can coax it to life. When it eventually does start it runs smooth and idles fine, and when the engine is warm I barely have to touch the key and it`s already running.

The previous owner claimed they had changed the glow plugs very recently, I have not verified this other than seeing some new nuts n bolts in that general area of the engine but even several glow cycles before attempting start do nothing to aid in the issue.

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