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more faffery..

1K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  sebwiers 
#1 ·
so more wiring bs.. not to sure if this is general or not.. but...

had enough bsing with the switches so instead of getting the relay shit and a mlock ima spend 40 bucks more and get a munit blue.. cuz why have keys when you can walk up with a phone in your pocket and go.


this also lets me get rid of even more wiring... but looking at the diagrams not sure how to wire it..

bacically the power feeds for the CDI.. the O/R and O/W both look 12v+ in one pic but it shows O/R going straight to ground in the wiring schem.






i shall have to go check tomorrow.. but its snowing so actually fuck going outside
 
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#3 ·
Looks to me (going by the lower diagram) like O/R should be an (ignition switched) ground; when the ignition is on, it connects through to B/W. I'd guess whoever did the top diagram was just indicating it went to the ignition switch, and screwed up by implying it was a positive.
 
#4 ·
Should be 3 hot legs off your battery.

1 constant on (ex, clock)

O/R is your switched power from key on... plate light, headlight, taillight, etc

O/W is your ignition loop with your safety switches (neutral, clutch, kill switch)

O/W and O/R are both 12v+ at key on
 
#8 ·
O/R goes to ground when you turn the key. It provides the ground path actual power, but is not +12v unless I'm missing something. O/B goes to your relays to cut off the spark if you do something like put the sidestand down. It will have +12v when the bike is supposed to be sparking (IE, sidestand up etc). Both of those should be easy to verify with a probe.

Since you want to bypass the key and safety relays (or have your mUnit replace them) you could just wire O/R to ground and O/B to hot. If the bike runs like that, you should be good to go if you wire them to the mUnit and program it to carry out the needed idiot checks and security locking. Easy to do as a test anyhow, right?

I did kinda (only not at all) the same thing on the SECApocalypse, for similar reasons; I had to get rid of my dash unit and it did all sorts of idiot checks. The only circuits switched by my key are the head and tail lights. The safety relays do nothing, and the rest of the circuits are hot whenever the battery is connected. Instead of an mUnit, I just have a big full amperage battery disconnect. I had to hack the wire harness to heck, but its so dirt simple now that I can easily trouble shoot with a light probe. :)
 
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