Not quite bike related, but I'm making a rotary positioner for welding round shit. Maybe making 2 of them.
Been wanting to for a while, and we just replaced a couple of the swiveling seat bases in one of the helicopters. I made the replacements, they're stout machined bits of 7075 and the bearing for the pivot is like 8" diameter, and the inner piece has a very convenient radial bolt pattern. Perfect for what I need. I'll make a big ring gear for it and stick a small gear on a motor to turn it.
Dug around in my shit bin and found an old Milwaukee M12 drill marked NFG. The battery connector broke on it... probably could have made it good as new with a bit of epoxy, but that's no fun. There's no useful label of any kind on the motor (has a Milwaukee part number which has no info associated with it), so I have no idea what the amperage draw on this thing is.
The trigger is some Chineseum company and marked for 24V/15A (the motor and battery are 12V). So... I'm guessing as long as my other components are rated for 15A I should be good, right?
I think the motor is PWM but I'm not sure how to tell, other than the fact that there's a big circuit board in there doing some kind of fancy bullshit. Hooking up my benchtop power source directly to the motor runs it fine, and changing the voltage changes the speed. Hooking power to the battery connector, though, kicks the motor on for a split second and then flashes the battery light on the board angrilly. The broken tab on the connector corresponds with a contact marked "T" on the M12 battery... I'm guessing some kind of thermal protection, but I don't know what kind of signal it would need to fool the board.
What I'd like to do is have the ability to run it off both an M12 battery or wall power, but if I have to pick one it would be the wall. To do this I'm thinking I can fix the connector from the drill and use the board from it, then immediately downstream from the board I'll link the wall power in, with diodes from both sources to keep things from flowing to the wrong places.
For the wall power, I'm thinking a 12V/15A power supply (this one looks ok I think).
As for the control, on the battery side I'd jump the trigger (can I even do this without making the board angry??) so it's effectively always on, and feed both sources into something like this PWM speed controller (do I even need PWM?)
My automotive electrical knowledge has come a long way in recent years, but I'm still catching up on the rest of it. Does this all make sense? Is there some big concept I'm missing that fucks it all up?
There's also an old DeWalt nicad drill in the shit bin. Guarantee there's no fancy computer bullshit in that one. Maybe better off reassembling (and maybe even fixing?!) the Milsuckee and using the DeWalt for the franken-spinner-thingy?
Been wanting to for a while, and we just replaced a couple of the swiveling seat bases in one of the helicopters. I made the replacements, they're stout machined bits of 7075 and the bearing for the pivot is like 8" diameter, and the inner piece has a very convenient radial bolt pattern. Perfect for what I need. I'll make a big ring gear for it and stick a small gear on a motor to turn it.
Dug around in my shit bin and found an old Milwaukee M12 drill marked NFG. The battery connector broke on it... probably could have made it good as new with a bit of epoxy, but that's no fun. There's no useful label of any kind on the motor (has a Milwaukee part number which has no info associated with it), so I have no idea what the amperage draw on this thing is.
The trigger is some Chineseum company and marked for 24V/15A (the motor and battery are 12V). So... I'm guessing as long as my other components are rated for 15A I should be good, right?
I think the motor is PWM but I'm not sure how to tell, other than the fact that there's a big circuit board in there doing some kind of fancy bullshit. Hooking up my benchtop power source directly to the motor runs it fine, and changing the voltage changes the speed. Hooking power to the battery connector, though, kicks the motor on for a split second and then flashes the battery light on the board angrilly. The broken tab on the connector corresponds with a contact marked "T" on the M12 battery... I'm guessing some kind of thermal protection, but I don't know what kind of signal it would need to fool the board.
What I'd like to do is have the ability to run it off both an M12 battery or wall power, but if I have to pick one it would be the wall. To do this I'm thinking I can fix the connector from the drill and use the board from it, then immediately downstream from the board I'll link the wall power in, with diodes from both sources to keep things from flowing to the wrong places.
For the wall power, I'm thinking a 12V/15A power supply (this one looks ok I think).
As for the control, on the battery side I'd jump the trigger (can I even do this without making the board angry??) so it's effectively always on, and feed both sources into something like this PWM speed controller (do I even need PWM?)
My automotive electrical knowledge has come a long way in recent years, but I'm still catching up on the rest of it. Does this all make sense? Is there some big concept I'm missing that fucks it all up?
There's also an old DeWalt nicad drill in the shit bin. Guarantee there's no fancy computer bullshit in that one. Maybe better off reassembling (and maybe even fixing?!) the Milsuckee and using the DeWalt for the franken-spinner-thingy?