Projector Conversion CB1KR
Here is the conversion from stock H4 to projector on my Cb1000r.
I purchased this kit from retrofit source - company is super helpful and very customer oriented, from my experience.
motorcycle stage 1 projector kit
Here is the shroud I chose - it was the most pimp of the ones I looked through for the look I am wanting.
Panamera with led - 4 corner
Rather than risk taking apart my headlight can and having the bike out of commission while i worked on the project, I purchased a new can for around 100 bucks from online OEM parts house.
The first step is to separate the shroud - follow this link to a video from TRS on how to do it.
Simply put without video. preheat oven to 270 degree Fahrenheit, set timer for 7 minutes. Place in oven bake for 7 mins ( or until golden brown , JK JK ) remove from oven and use flat head screw driver to pry the two halves apart gently. once you get enough space to get some fingers in there it pulls apart pretty easily. here is the video link
TRS baking and opening headlight assembly
here is the split assembly
here is where i ran into a bit of a challenge. the can was not deep enough to support the height of the projector. typically you would open the headlight hole to accommodate the 35mm width of the projector and mount it accordingly - pretty simple.
before proceeding I called TRS and let them know i needed about 30mm reduction to the height of the projector and asked if they offered any shorter projector. he said yes - HELL YEAH now were cookin'.
well maybe not, the alternative was only 1mm shorter - which would leave me trying to make up the 29mm on my own. I decided to go ahead and fully mod the can myself. I had a good idea.
Using a 2.5 inch abs pipe cap,(2.5 ID for 2.4 OD abs pipe) I cut a 35mm hole in the center of the cap to accommodate the projector mount. I then cut down the cap to the appropriate height to support the proper depth i needed.
here is pic of the cap.
this ended up being 3/4 of an inch tall on the outside. 35mm hole in the center.
next i had to open up the back half of the shroud considerably. there are a few methods you can use. I used an oscillating sander with a 1.5 inch diameter and 80 grit sandpaper. I opened the back of the can to 2 3/8 inches.
here is the shroud opened up.
you can see in this picture that i busted the adjustment support post. when done with the mod i simply JB welded this back in place - good to go, maybe more durable than it was before it broke.
now that i had the projector clearing the front half of the housing I needed to trim down the projector shroud to fit in the housing. I marked the depth around the edge and used a dremel with a cutting wheel to slowly remove the bottom portion of the ring.
as a side note - you will need at least 1 small hole to accommodate the wiring for the blade mechanism on the projector. In my case i needed three to accommodate LED on the projector shroud and the addition of front halo which I decided to leave out. The kit comes with rubber plugs for these hole to push the wires through. I added a dab of marine silicone to assist them in their waterproofing process.
modified shroud
this is a pretty crappy picture but you can see the amount removed - it was close to 7/8 inch when done. each project will differ and patience and care are best for getting this part right without fuggin it up.
Since the hole in the back of the shroud was considerably large than the silicone washer they provided I needed to seal it somehow - no pics of this process, it was one where i just kept working through it to get it done at this point.
it should be noted that at this point prior to the sealing of the projector in the back half of the shroud, I painted the back side with some matte black paint.
I then applied a healthy bead of silicone to the ABS cap inside the cap around the 35mm hole and on the edge of the cap where it would meet the back of the shroud. I placed the projector into the shroud, slipped the cap over the threaded post on the back side and tightened it all down with the provided nut.
let this go the full term on drying - 24hours, no need to rush. There is no hurry when your pimpin a project.
While this was done and drying I separated the chrome plastic inner from the front of the shroud. I cleaned and painted both this part and the projector shroud. I used VHT gold metal flake engine paint. This really is the best spray match I have found to the banjo bolt on gold spiegler lines, and the rizoma parts I have recently added.
After these dried and I was satisfied with the finish I put the front half back together.
I then pull the shroud wiring and the blade wiring and mounted the shroud. the shroud comes with some clips that fit right into the projector and they offer centric mounting rings for an addition cost. since you will be sealing this all together you don't want to have anything come loose inside the sealed can.
I used a small dab of silicone on each of the five clips on the projector shroud - this worked nicely - again 24hrs - no hurry - pimpin
once everything was dry I dry fit the parts and siliconed the two halves back together.
this weekend i will be mounting the light and the wiring harness - this is pretty easy and they give you everything you need - except a wiring diagram, but they have these online and its easy to print it up.
will post the mounted product and some wiring tips when completed
here is the completed shroud ready for lighting and the bike
sorry there are not more pictures - sometimes on these projects you get to parts where you need to keep moving. for me it was a combo of keep moving and fairly excited on how it was working.
Here is the conversion from stock H4 to projector on my Cb1000r.
I purchased this kit from retrofit source - company is super helpful and very customer oriented, from my experience.
motorcycle stage 1 projector kit
Here is the shroud I chose - it was the most pimp of the ones I looked through for the look I am wanting.
Panamera with led - 4 corner
Rather than risk taking apart my headlight can and having the bike out of commission while i worked on the project, I purchased a new can for around 100 bucks from online OEM parts house.
The first step is to separate the shroud - follow this link to a video from TRS on how to do it.
Simply put without video. preheat oven to 270 degree Fahrenheit, set timer for 7 minutes. Place in oven bake for 7 mins ( or until golden brown , JK JK ) remove from oven and use flat head screw driver to pry the two halves apart gently. once you get enough space to get some fingers in there it pulls apart pretty easily. here is the video link
TRS baking and opening headlight assembly
here is the split assembly
here is where i ran into a bit of a challenge. the can was not deep enough to support the height of the projector. typically you would open the headlight hole to accommodate the 35mm width of the projector and mount it accordingly - pretty simple.
before proceeding I called TRS and let them know i needed about 30mm reduction to the height of the projector and asked if they offered any shorter projector. he said yes - HELL YEAH now were cookin'.
well maybe not, the alternative was only 1mm shorter - which would leave me trying to make up the 29mm on my own. I decided to go ahead and fully mod the can myself. I had a good idea.
Using a 2.5 inch abs pipe cap,(2.5 ID for 2.4 OD abs pipe) I cut a 35mm hole in the center of the cap to accommodate the projector mount. I then cut down the cap to the appropriate height to support the proper depth i needed.
here is pic of the cap.
this ended up being 3/4 of an inch tall on the outside. 35mm hole in the center.
next i had to open up the back half of the shroud considerably. there are a few methods you can use. I used an oscillating sander with a 1.5 inch diameter and 80 grit sandpaper. I opened the back of the can to 2 3/8 inches.
here is the shroud opened up.
you can see in this picture that i busted the adjustment support post. when done with the mod i simply JB welded this back in place - good to go, maybe more durable than it was before it broke.
now that i had the projector clearing the front half of the housing I needed to trim down the projector shroud to fit in the housing. I marked the depth around the edge and used a dremel with a cutting wheel to slowly remove the bottom portion of the ring.
as a side note - you will need at least 1 small hole to accommodate the wiring for the blade mechanism on the projector. In my case i needed three to accommodate LED on the projector shroud and the addition of front halo which I decided to leave out. The kit comes with rubber plugs for these hole to push the wires through. I added a dab of marine silicone to assist them in their waterproofing process.
modified shroud
this is a pretty crappy picture but you can see the amount removed - it was close to 7/8 inch when done. each project will differ and patience and care are best for getting this part right without fuggin it up.
Since the hole in the back of the shroud was considerably large than the silicone washer they provided I needed to seal it somehow - no pics of this process, it was one where i just kept working through it to get it done at this point.
it should be noted that at this point prior to the sealing of the projector in the back half of the shroud, I painted the back side with some matte black paint.
I then applied a healthy bead of silicone to the ABS cap inside the cap around the 35mm hole and on the edge of the cap where it would meet the back of the shroud. I placed the projector into the shroud, slipped the cap over the threaded post on the back side and tightened it all down with the provided nut.
let this go the full term on drying - 24hours, no need to rush. There is no hurry when your pimpin a project.
While this was done and drying I separated the chrome plastic inner from the front of the shroud. I cleaned and painted both this part and the projector shroud. I used VHT gold metal flake engine paint. This really is the best spray match I have found to the banjo bolt on gold spiegler lines, and the rizoma parts I have recently added.
After these dried and I was satisfied with the finish I put the front half back together.
I then pull the shroud wiring and the blade wiring and mounted the shroud. the shroud comes with some clips that fit right into the projector and they offer centric mounting rings for an addition cost. since you will be sealing this all together you don't want to have anything come loose inside the sealed can.
I used a small dab of silicone on each of the five clips on the projector shroud - this worked nicely - again 24hrs - no hurry - pimpin
once everything was dry I dry fit the parts and siliconed the two halves back together.
this weekend i will be mounting the light and the wiring harness - this is pretty easy and they give you everything you need - except a wiring diagram, but they have these online and its easy to print it up.
will post the mounted product and some wiring tips when completed
here is the completed shroud ready for lighting and the bike
sorry there are not more pictures - sometimes on these projects you get to parts where you need to keep moving. for me it was a combo of keep moving and fairly excited on how it was working.