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How about a DIY RFID ignition setup?

128K views 189 replies 48 participants last post by  kwakazuki 
#1 ·
I know people on here have set it up but for some of us electrically retarded people like me simple things can turn into nightmares. If any of you electrical gurus would like to throw up how you set it up I would be forever thankful.
 
#39 ·
That would work fine brockzilla but you wouldn't be able to swipe to turn it off. So that's really just personal preference. We decided on a latching relay in the other thread so you could swipe to turn it off... but in the end it really doesn't matter. That is why there is 1000 ways to skin a cat.
 
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#40 · (Edited)
it would be better to have the kill switch be the switch that activates the RFID box and the relays so that when the kill switch is off these are off as well, the relay disengages and the bike shuts off....who wants to swipe a second time? Use the kill switch..its one less step.

Anyway, if you wire the RFID box right to the battery you are asking for trouble...such as a dead battery

Dont forget a 5 amp fuse in between the RFID box and the power source.
I would use a diode just so you know that power will only flow the one direction on the loop to hold it closed..its just a good thing to do
 
#44 ·
Anyway, if you wire the RFID box right to the battery you are asking for trouble...such as a dead battery

I would use a diode just so you know that power will only flow the one direction on the loop to hold it closed..its just a good thing to do
So you're saying that the RFID unit will drain the battery and that the diod will prevent that? why do you believe the RFID unit will kill the battery?
 
#41 ·
I personally wouldn't want the kill switch tied into the ignition so you have to swipe to turn it back on. Why? Because I like to kill ignition, crack the throttle while in gear, close throttle and tap the ignition switch and shoot a 1 foot flame out my exhaust pipe.

It's just one of those guilty pleasures. :LolLolLolLol:
 
#42 ·
it was just a simple scrible i did in a hurry. will have fuses in it. the RFID will be going in the place where i cut the ignition out of it.

i want it this way as im a stupid ass. I know i will kill the motor and then walk away with out killing the RFID unit by swiping a second time.


I said i was going to re draw it last night. i tried to make the circut and make a video. but i could not get the RFID to activate the relay(i hve two and they both did the same thing). im thinking the out put from the rfid IS to low and i need to look at a different way of doing it. the LED flashes si i know the thing is picking up the signal. My multi meter is flat so will get a new battery and have another go tonight.
 
#45 ·
I don't know what Noah is talking about, maybe he knows something I don't.
 
#48 ·
here is a schematic of hopefully exactly what you have.

Notice this is a double relay, meaning both poles switch when the coil is activated (when the relay receives power)




the yellow wire with the diode returns to the yellow wire feeding power to the coil and thereby keeping the relay on.
the diode keeps the power flowing just one way like a one way valve..its just better to have.

I would run the red and black that would go to the battery through a 5 amp inline fuse and finally to the kill switch
 
#50 ·
I think we can see now that there are 9284729847923 different ways to achieve the same goal when it comes to electronics, even with something as simple as a glorified switch. :D
 
#52 ·
Okay so I got all the stuff from ebay and finally got around to trying to throw it together and this is what im thinking.



okay so if you cant see or cant understand my paint skills
the red from the transponder and the red from the latching switch are joined and connect to the positive of the battery
the black and green from the transponder and and the black from the latching switch all connect and go to the negative of the battery
the yellow from the transponder and the green from the latching switch join together
then looking at my ignition set up I would take the brown from the latching switch and connect it to the wire that turns on the bike
finally the yellow from the latching switch connects to everything else in the ignition except for the wire that turns the bike on

I figured i would run this by you guys because i dont want to screw anything up. Please let me know if this is correct.
 
#69 ·
from what I see from the full diagram the R or red wire is your power off of the battery. The way this needs to be wired going off of that is that wire needs to go to the +12V on your relay. Then the relay output + or yellow wire off of your relay needs to go to the O/R,O,O/Y wires. O/G and Br wires need to be connected directly to each other just like they would be through the normal ignition switch. I am pretty sure that is what needs to be done. The only thing in question now is how the latching relay is setup without a diagram for that or at least the model number for it I don't know for sure that the contacts on it are setup that way. But essentially with the relay you want that red off the ignition to go to a normally open contact and the other 3 wires on the other side of that N/O contact. Then you want to wire the transponder output to the activation contact on the relay causing the N/O contact to close.
 
#53 ·
what's the amperage rating on the latching relay, and what's the amperage rating on your main fuse? that's the only issue I can see looking at it at 1:30 AM when I'm tired as fuck
 
#57 ·
The more I look at this the more that I am thinking the O/G,Br circuit probably does not have any power that needs to be supplied to it they just need to be tied together. The other circuit is gonna have one of the wires that is the power from the battery, once the ignition is on, feeding power to all the other wires in the O/R,R,O,O/Y circuit. I don't know any of this for sure because I'm not sure which bike this is for and I can't see the rest of the bike wiring diagram. But going off what I can see you just need a wire coming off the positive output on the relay going to those 4 wires. The thing I don't know is what those 4 wires are so you may end up replacing one of those if it is a feed from the battery.
 
#60 ·
Okay so yeah, I have no idea what is going on with that switch. You need to post up the entire wiring diagram and we can tell you. I can guess but without the whole diagram it's just a guess. Polecat is absolutely correct about the function of the switch and the meaning of the diagram, but we have no idea what each wire goes to.

Also one of your outputs will go to your battery, and the other one will go to those unknown wires.

I will redraw your diagram once you get us the whole wiring diagram (specifically the section showing the ignition switch).

You can send the pdf to my email if you like. PM me for my email address.
 
#64 ·
well it's not impossible... but it would be a lot easier. :)
 
#65 ·
I just hope he didn't cut his ignition switch harness off already haha
 
#70 ·
#73 ·
when has anyone on here been into anything 'regular'? :LolLolLolLol:
 
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#72 ·
I did something very similar to this on my KZ1300 'fighter. I used a car immobiliser [with the magnetic reciever hidden behind a panel] and a high current relay to handle the ignition circuit. A swipe near the reciever disarms the immobiliser and puts power onto the relay coil circuit, the kill switch enables the ignition [if you don't, the immobiliser re-arms in 20 secs] and to turn the ignition off I flick the kill switch and then the immobiliser arms again in 20 secs. Cost me about 30 quid in total from memory.
 
#75 ·
You guys have peaked my interest with this little option, I now have the pieces on the way for my new build. The new build is a 78 Triumph 750 with a kickstart, no starter shit, so this should be a pretty easy install wouldn't you think?
 
#77 ·
Just a heads up here - a 2005 Jap bike will have some sort of immobiliser in the ignition circuit.

My 2000 ZX9 has a 100 ohm resistor in the ignition lock that feeds lower voltage to the ECU. If this is bypassed, the bike will crank forever but not spark.

You might want to check the resistance across all the circuits in the ignition switch to see if it has a similar set-up. Either that, or it has a chipped key - which means....you're fucked :oops:
 
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