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How about a DIY RFID ignition setup?

128K views 189 replies 48 participants last post by  kwakazuki 
#1 ·
I know people on here have set it up but for some of us electrically retarded people like me simple things can turn into nightmares. If any of you electrical gurus would like to throw up how you set it up I would be forever thankful.
 
#111 ·
go get a chip fron a vet and se if it will work. they have been putting chips in dogs for years!!
 
#116 ·
I put mine towards the rear of my tail, I just stick the fob under the tail plastic where the antennae is and I'm getting pretty good results from about two inches away. I have also noticed that it takes a second to read, so you can't just swipe it real fast.

In addition, did you guys put an inline fuse on the +12v wire? If so what size did you use or should I use? I have a 2000 sv650 and the ignition fuse is 10A, so maybe I should use a 10A?
 
#118 ·
Ya I finally got mine to light up and work as well!!! WOO!! I'll be mounting the reader tomorrow and am experiencing the same problem with the reading distance but it scans almost instantly when at the correct distance from the antenna.

Where are you talking about putting the fuse?

Video tomorrow!
 
#126 ·
I did one of these up for my buddy's bike last year and didn't put a diode on the activated positive wire on the RFID reader (the yellow one) and it fried out over a week or two. So remember to put a diode on that wire.

I also had a main off switch before the RFID reader so you could turn the whole system off (after the reader fried this switch turned the bike on and off)
I used a regular automotive relay and it worked fine, and they're only $5. It worked so when you used your kill switch to kill your bike it also turned off the system.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I think a latching system with a off switch other than the kill switch would work best. You could kill your bike and turn it back on without swiping, and when you leave your bike you just switch the off switch and it powers down the entire system.

I'm probably going to put a RFID on my ninja when i fix it up again in the next few weeks. I'll try and remember to take pictures and record how I hook it up.
 
#127 ·
So I ran into a problem with my setup last night. I took the bike out for my first ride since installing the RFID and latch and 3 minutes into riding, the bike started throwing an F1 light and then all of a sudden shut off. I pulled over and tried to start it up with the RFID chip and nothing happened. I got a ride home, grabbed my key ignition thing that i chopped off and went back to the bike to try and quickly twist some wires together and see if it would start up. When I turned the key the lights turned on but the fuel pump wouldn't turn over. I took it apart this morning and the fuse on the brown wire (7.5 amperage) is blown. I haven't tried replacing the fuse yet. I was wondering where I went wrong with the wiring. Here is my setup.
<a href="http://s973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/?action=view&current=RFIDround2-1.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/RFIDround2-1.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/?action=view&current=wirediagram.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/wirediagram.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
#137 ·
So I ran into a problem with my setup last night. I took the bike out for my first ride since installing the RFID and latch and 3 minutes into riding, the bike started throwing an F1 light and then all of a sudden shut off. I pulled over and tried to start it up with the RFID chip and nothing happened. I got a ride home, grabbed my key ignition thing that i chopped off and went back to the bike to try and quickly twist some wires together and see if it would start up. When I turned the key the lights turned on but the fuel pump wouldn't turn over. I took it apart this morning and the fuse on the brown wire (7.5 amperage) is blown. I haven't tried replacing the fuse yet. I was wondering where I went wrong with the wiring. Here is my setup.
There was nothing wrong with that set-up other than fact that the Fuse was way too small - you are running EVERYTHING through that Brown -> Yellow SSR switch and the fuse should have been 30A (actually you don't really need a fuse at all on this - the bike wiring system is already accommodating - it's not like you have a fuse in the original key-switch there, right?)
So the simple 'fix' would be to either make the Fuse 30A or just eliminate it altogether.

With the revised 'solution' that was subsequently posted, you are now using the 611t to switch nothing more than relay coil current (<200mA) - with a 7.5A fuse in that line.
The second relay is doing exactly the same thing as your initial set-up - the difference is that it has NO fuse on the line and you have added an additional relay (which is superfluous).

Here are a couple of my systems:

The first is using that same EBay RFID Reader
Both systems use a much more cost-effective system for the latch - a diode is all that is required to make a latch out of a simple automotive relay instead of the added expense of the 611t module. I use compact Panasonic Micro Relays/Sockets (20A rating) and OEM connectors for the original key-switch harness connection. Also has only three connections onto the bike harness for control utilising existing on-board switches without having to re-wire them.
There is no standing drain from the RFID module, it is only enabled by the clutch switch.
I left the key-switch in place but could easily be simply unplugged and left off.

I won't reprise all the details here again, but you can see them on the original threads in the following links - I have linked the videos however.

RFID System 1



RFID System 2 - completely Hands-Free

 
#128 ·
Woah Dude you should have a 30A regular automotive relay in there that is triggered off of the solid state relay(SSR)! Wires from your ignition should never come into contact with your the wires from your SSR. You should be able to take all of the ignition grounds strait to battery ground. Off of the relay you would take the green line to the positives of the ignition.
 

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#129 ·
Thanks man! I wish I would have known this before I had to push my bike 2 miles home in the middle of the night. Why is it the yellow wire from the SSR that goes to the battery and not the brown one? Also would it be a good idea to throw a fuse on the wires that go to the + end of the battery?
 
#131 ·
Okay so hopefully this wont shit on me

<a href="http://s973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/?action=view&current=RFIDround3-1.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/bluejewballs/RFIDround3-1.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
#133 ·
The parts I got for mine include:
solid state relay($30),
RFID reader($10),
regular automotive relay($6),
and glass tube implantable chip($10)
Odds and ends-electrical ends, heat shrink, solder($?)
so around $60 total.
Not bad at all for such a unique mod. I keep getting people saying "I have never even heard of someone doing that before!"
 
#138 ·
bluejewballs - this would be fine for your situation
Note that you should use at least 12ga ideally for the high current circuits, especially if commoning all the poles as in your example - if you are using individual relays for each pole you can get away with 14 or 16 ga. The control wiring of course can be minimal - 18 or even smaller.
 

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#139 ·
I have a question about the DEI 611T

If you trigger the 611T it changes to open(closed)
Trigger again and it changes to closed(open)-default state.

My question is this, If you trigger the 611T to open.

If I cut the +12v or -12v (not trigger,)
- 1. Will the relay then return to default state closed
- 2. Will the relay remain in Open state?
If I reconnect the +12v or -12v (not trigger,)
+ 2.1 Will it still be open state
+ 2.2 Will the relay then return to default state closed
 
#140 ·


How about this setup.
If you try activate with the kill switch to "kill" or, try to activate with the "deactivate-trigger-button-thingie" you will get a optical confirmation witch is the turnlights flashing.
The power switch, witch will be a "main power switch" is going to be the original ignition, tuck away under the seat.
 
#144 ·
I didnt think it was either. Which is why its under my airbox, in a ziplock back sealed with silicon caulk. I rode in what most would call a monsoon saturday afternoon in miami. Roads were flooded, rampant lightning, wind, downed branches and douche bags driving with their hazards on(not sure if thats local douchbaggery or nation wide?) Either way, I had to get home and 2 wheels was the only way. RFID still kicking strong. My shoes were full of water and I put my phone and wallet in rubber gloves for the ride.
 
#145 ·
Alright guys, love this idea. And since I just picked up a zx600d with the ignition cut off, this is perfect.

Two questions:

1- Where are you guys getting the RFID reader? I'm not having much luck on E-bay, other than a giant "door" system.

2- Where the old ignition switch was attached, there are roughly 6 wires. How do I find a home for all of these wires? It seems like the RFID reader only has a couple of wires to splice to.
 
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