I know people on here have set it up but for some of us electrically retarded people like me simple things can turn into nightmares. If any of you electrical gurus would like to throw up how you set it up I would be forever thankful.
Well I got the RFID kit in guys...but one problem.. It doesn't come with the yellow or green wires like you guys show, or what the wiring details show that came with it. It came with a single 3-wire connector, red black and white. And, when red is hooked up to (+) and black to (-), nothing happens. Did I get a bad RFID? A little confused here...
with red to + and black to - the red led should flash when you swipe the key. You wont hear any noise or anything. If you swipe the key and nothing happens, try and reprogram the key with the given directions using the master key. If your key is programed and nothing still happens it may be a bad unit. you get your latching switch too? if so, hook the white wire to the green wire on the latching switch and you should hear the switch click too.
I set up an rfid system on my 954, got it all wired up, easy enough. My questions is, when I first hooked it up (early this morning) I would swipe the key and it instantly turned on. NOW, later the same night, I swipe the key and it still turns on there is just like a 3 second delay. What would cause this? I dont think there is an adjustable timing thing on the rfid brain is there?
this is the one I got. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RFID-Reader-...item56456b4d75
That is odd. The 611t can be set up as a timer. I forget how, but there are like 4 switches on the side so maybe on got switched? I sealed mine with silicon to be extra safe. Does the LED from the RFID light up and then there is the delay until it switches on or do you swipe and wait 3 seconds for the LED to light?
just in case people are interested... For cbr's (929, 954's f4is and some 1000's for sure anyway) if you replace the ignition with an rfid or a toggle or anything you need to put a 3.9V zener diode in line with the pink wire. MOST radio shacks only sell 5.1v zener diodes so you can use that and put a 5% 1k ohm 1 watt resistor in front of it and it will work perfect. Just so all you cbr owners know.
alright, so i'm thinking i want to do this on the zx12 of mine. there doesnt seem to be a huge selection of rfid's, so what's everyone's opinion of this one? i'm sure some of you have used it, being there's so few to choose from http://www.ebay.com/itm/160493201114
the rfid kit comes with a relay, but it sounds like i'll need an additional standard automotive relay as well? and just to make sure, with all of this, i'll need to swipe my fob past the reader a second time in order to shut the bike off, right?
ok, so how would i translate this to use my ignition harness? i dont care about the "park" feature, i didnt even know my bike was capable of it, nor would i ever use it. i also have the full wiring diagram if its needed, i just dont know where to upload a picture that wont automatically re-size it like photobucket does
after getting my rfid installed and working properly, the bike has been sitting for over a month. i went to check the voltage on the battery just to make sure it wasnt in need of a charge, and found it sitting at 8 volts. these little bastards slowly drain your battery!
thought i would post up so anyone who reads through this thread and installs one is aware. i'll be throwing a toggle switch in-line somewhere for when the bikes going to be sitting for a period of time
Yea I found this out too. Since its always "looking" for the FOB its pulling power slowly. I wired in a master off for when Im not riding the bike for a few weeks.
On the issue of keyless ignition, I have to admit I know nothing about it. I used to have enduro and supermoto bikes, and the Husaberg had no ignition switch. Just press the start button and ride away. So I bought a Acumen Cat6 immobiliser. I never used it as I then sold the bike to buy another supermoto. Could I use this on my SV650 to remove the ignition switch ?? http://www.acumen-electronics.co.uk/product/CAT6_non-battery|ignition_switch_immobiliser_10126.
^^^ That is why I recommend only enabling the RFID module power via the clutch or side-stand switch per my previous suggestion. Using either of those to switch the 'return' (negative) power to the module means you don't have to add an auxiliary switch
I'm using a remote ign switch and a remote start button. the starter remote relay is only on when the remote is pushed, its for operating a 12v truck winch, I wired to a relay as my started button goes to earth. The remote ign only switches max 10 amps so that switches a 30 amp relay. the original ign switch also switched 2 other circuits so these were also switched via a 2 gang relay. I have kept a key switch I had installed as a back up, and have a disable switch for when I am not using the bike.
So far it all works well, remote start can turn heads.
Just fried one. And I know what Im doing... most of the time. Gotta check the wiring, but Im going to bed with the idea I had a bad RFID receiver. I was in a rush and wanted to test the wiring on my CB project. Good thing you can get a fist full of em for like 25 bucks.
I've been running with mine for several months without too many problems. I had my clutch switch hooked up so that it would cut the negative wire from the unit, but I found that it would still read the tag and turn on with only the + wire (weird?). The little LED wouldn't light up, but the unit would still trip my relay (regular automotive). It seemed to work ok like this but then eventually it stopped reading my programmed keys and would only work with the ones it came with (wouldn't let me reprogram them either). I just got done replacing the unit and all is well now, but it does seem like they are a little flaky. I plan on wiring in a cutoff switch for it eventually. For as cheap as they are I would recommend buying a few of them just in case lol. And definitely water proof them somehow. I filled mine with silicon caulking.
Ok, having problems with my new setup. ANY help would be great... Heres the deal. I had my cbr954 hooked up to an rfid setup using the ebay reader and the 611t just like most of you. BUT it kept killing my battery cause i had it hooked directly to the battery and I dont ride often enough. So I decided I would hook it up like d'ecosse suggested and I just can not get it to work and I dont know if its because im just retarded or my rfid reader is messed up. I have it hooked up like the attached diagram, but heres what happens. I pull in my clutch to power up the reader, swipe my card and it latches like it should BUT the next time I pull my clutch in it UNlatches. So basically my clutch is acting like an on/off switch, I clutch in and the bike powers up, clutch in again and bike shuts off, clutch in and on again etc etc etc like i reswiped the tag every time I pull the clutch in. Its like every time the clutch is pulled in and it powers up the reader (which it should) it sends a signal to the relay without me even swiping the tag. So is it a problem with the reader or is it the way i have it hooked up? Just cant figure it out!!! Its driving me nuts
Mine works. I wired a 'storage' toggle. The RFID powers up the bike. My start switch is the yolk nut(with an elevator button inside) and I decided to wire in a neutral switch so the bike only starts when in neutral. I dont have a clutch or side stand switch.
ya thats what I meant too, the rfid works fine, I just wired in a toggle to power it off when the bikes going to sit for a while so the rfid doesnt kill the battery.
I came across this thread/board while searching for a reasonable priced RFID compared to Motogadgets. I ordered the unit but have a few questions so I can plan my install.
I have a 71' Yamaha R5 that has an aftermarket MZB ignition that is turned on by the key, then I kick start the engine. The switch centered turns on my lights and the MZB unit.
How will I wire this so I can swipe the unit on and keep constant 12v to power the MZB and bike? Is this where the DEI relay comes in, or can I use the supplied MZB relay since my system is without started etc?
So I used one of those $10 ebay units and built a relay control latch board. I have it prototyped and tested. Will post the circuits and instructions soon. Basically full kit for ~$25
Just PM'd this to taiden, but thought maybe others could put in their .02
II put my own kit together on my 1990 Harley FXR which has extremely simple wiring because it is an older bike. I got the 611T latching relay wired up to the RFID reader and wired through the ignition harness but i didn't remove teh keyed ignition so i could use either the key or RFID fob. Everything is wired properly (I think). I put a switch between the battery on the 12v wire so the rfid box won't drain the battery.
The problem i have is that when i turn the switch on the red led comes on and stays on which I haven't seen other units doing in the youtube vids that people have posted. That isn't really a problem because the fob turns on the lights and gives the bike power just fine. The probelm is when i go to start the bike the starter just clicks as if there isn't enough juice in the battery to turn the engine over. The one time i did get it to turn the engine over and start it ran for approximately 30 seconds and then turned off the system / bike entirely. I know that the 611t is NOT set to timed operation so that isn't what is turning the system off.
I should also note that the bike has no fuses / breakers, but rather a relay that trips when it gets too hot...and that shuts down the electrical system so the bike doesn't fry. I think this relay is getting tripped because of an incorrect voltage or lack of proper resistance.
When I use the key the bike runs perfectly fine with no problems what so ever...even immediately after the RFID system fails.
Am I missing a resistor?
Could it be the lack of a diode... i read that was an issue feeding voltage back into the RFID box...could result in problems with that stock relay...
I 've checked the wiring for the whole rfid / 611t rig and have no shorts. I can send you a pic of how i have it wired up if you think that would help.
lol keeping an old thread alive. After re-re-reading this all this week ive went ahead and ordered my parts. I really wanted a system with 5 foot range but they really are just too expensive. Ill post up here and my build thread(which i havent updated in months) if i go crazy with it.
and should i wire power off the kill switch to keep it from dying? thanks for the help to any wizard electrical gurus willing to chime in
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