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power to the wheel tips

4K views 34 replies 11 participants last post by  crowbar 
#1 ·
With the addition of a supercharger on my Z hopefully less than 2 years away. I have to wonder about getting power to the rear wheel effectively. I have never really done research into such an issue. I would have to imagine lowering links would bring the center of gravity down in front of the rear wheel thus applying more leverage. But, is there anything else? wider rear wheel? Plus I'm not big on drag racing, so it is not a huge issue. But if I can specifically target traction without sacrificing anything else (except perhaps weight) then I would like to know about it.
 
#5 ·
I think I'd be more worried about a lockup clutch and a sticky tire. I wouldn't personally go to a wider tire for this reason, nor would I lower the bike.

If the suspension is set up for the proper weight, adding some more power won't be a big deal. If anything, try some adjustable extensions for the swingarm. You don't need to add 6+" to be effective, even an inch or two can make a big difference in traction without sacrificing a bunch of handling.
 
#7 ·
I'll see how well I can describe it...

Here's a pic from M*R*E


And a quote;
"The M*R*E centrifugal clutch is designed to increase clutch lock up as the vehicle increases speed.

This serves two purposes, first, with turbos and/or nitrous bikes, the clutch will tend to slip in high gear as it can not cope with the huge horsepowers. The lockup will overcome that slippage for increases in up to 5 mph in quarter mile speeds.
Second, the initial off the line clutch grab can be softened up with light springs to prevent wheel spin and rely on the M*R*E centrifugal clutch arms to provide full lock up on down the track.

The M*R*E lock up clutch is the choice for all leading drag racers. It is a simple bolt in with easy adjustments. Don't be caught in the staging beams without one."



Basically, those things that look like tabs with balls on the end---as the clutch and engine speed up, those things spin out via centrifugal force and provide pressure on the top of the pressure plate and clutch plates to prevent slippage...that's about as best I can describe it without getting super technical.

My bike doesn't currently have one, but it's on the "future" list...I may need it with the nitrous shot I hope to run :D
 
#11 ·
Actually power to the wheels isnt so much of what your looking for as it is power to the ground.
GOOD rubber!
 
#14 ·
How much power are you planning on it making?
 
#15 ·
2nd set of rims for play time makes the cost of having super sticky tires and daily rider tires worthwhile.
Plus slicks DONOT like wet conditions.
 
#17 ·
Is that a plausible amount of power to get out of it? Would a zx10 clutch assy work in it?
 
#21 ·
:doh:

he is saying that if a motor is good enough to run on boost, stock then its a good motor to begin with. you should build up the motor before you boost it.
 
#22 ·
Yeah that's not a bad idea but you build a boosted motor up differently than you would a NA motor. For example I have been told that stock came run better in supercharged applications. And you guys that say a NA engine can get just as big a horsepower number as a forced induction motor could you site your source's? I'm sure a well built engine on bigger pistons, cams, and bored out heads make some awesome number's but there is a real shortage of that stuff for the z1k. And we talked about price. I did find a kit by Muzzy that is a 48cc over bore kit for 1300 or so that only claims 10% gain. So for the price I gotta wonder if NA is all its cracked up to be.
 
#23 ·
What i was saying is this, If i was to build a motor to boost i would not have a seriously low comp ratio 8:5 to run high boost to make power. I would make a 10:5:1 motor and run half the boost and make the same power more reliably and more efficently. That being said start building a good N/A motor then if your not satisfied with that, put bigger injectors and a supercharger and then you can just run 6-8psi and be well over your goal. Thats just my opinion from trial and error.
 
#25 ·
But that's WAY harder on the motor. This is fine for a dedicated race bike, but he doesn't want to drag it. If you want the motor to last with boost you will have to lower the compression. Period, end of story. People have been trying to get away with high compression boost motors which are really fun until you run them a tiny bit lean and then BANG! there goes all your money and the block will probably not be reusable so your starting from scratch. Lowering the compression allows you to tune for a safe zone so your motor is not on the ragged edge of detonation. A 10.5:1 + boost(8psi) is going to (based on a 1000cc motor with 4 equal cylinders) have head pressure over 115,000psi which means your going to want to run a gurtle, head studs, a wide band oxygen sensor, a logger, and a tuner. Low compression motor all you need is a tuner (I suggest a wide band if you want to tune it yourself anyway)

Plus you might think of meth/water injection at 50/50 at any boost level/compression as an added safety feature because this is a boosted street motor we are talking about. Forged pistons and good bearings, and not exceeding your stock rods is what I'd be worried about.

edit: cbr, I love your avi
 
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#32 ·
Sweet! Now if you want to look at meth injection know that the meth injection can be setup on the same wiring and relays (essentially making it a wetish kit)
 
#34 ·
How much? What brand?
 
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