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How To: Install Racetech Gold Valves into USD Forks

12K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  ed563 
#1 ·
I'm bookmarking this for later, plan to post either tonight or tomorrow AM.

I'm doing some suspension work for a member on the forum here, specifically the forks on his 1994 GSX-R1100. I am rebuilding the forks, installing new fork seals, and adding 10W Ohlins fork oil...the biggest thing though is that I'm installing a set of Racetech Gold Valves and revalving his forks. I could not find any decent how-to on this back when I did my first set. Seeing how I've done about 10 sets now, 3 on my own bikes, I figured I was comfortable in posting a how-to.

Be back soon :)
 
#2 ·
Okay, I'm back. I am not going to cover the general part of this, the standard disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of the fork. For a great tutorial on this, check out this thread by ed563.

http://customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38888

Now, once the fork is apart, this is the part you are concerned with, the cartridge.


When this part here at the bottom of the cartridge is unthreaded, the shim stack is exposed and you can pull it out of the bottom.


This fork however, decided to be a COMPLETE pain in my ass, to I actually took the cartridge apart from the top. Some forks don't allow you to do this, but on this cartridge, there's an area for a large hex head. Luckily, this tool that I made a few years back (for removing the front axle from my 2000 GSXR750) fits perfectly!


Rather than risking the marring of the cartridge, I clamped this tool in the vise and slid the cartridge onto it. Very secure, no risk of damaging the cartridge, and the vise is nice and solid.




Here is what the inside of the cartridge looks like when removed from the top.


Here's the part we're concerned with...the tiny reason for all this hoopla!


Now, look at the far right of the above picture, there's a nut. This needs to be removed. Once that nut is removed, you'll need to carefully disassemble the valving components. You will also have to lightly file the edges of the threads in order to clean them up a little bit. They have some burrs and such from the original assembly process.





Here's a comparison of stock vs. the new gold valve. It's pretty obvious how much better the new valve will flow.



Now, a crucial part of this process is choosing the correct shim stack. Racetech makes this easy by providing a login code with your purchase. You enter the code into a certain area of their website and it gives you a one time login. You enter your info, your weight, etc.etc., and it gives you all the notes you need. Since this is a one time login and I don't have a printer (and I intended to do this tutorial), I took a screenshot.


If you read that close it says "Gold Valve Compression Damping" and then the number C45. That corresponds to a chart in your install instructions--


In the following picture, I've laid out the shim stack I will be using in the order of installation (the bottom row). The largest diameter shim will be closest to the valve...diameter goes down as you get farther away.


Here's the shim stack installed, smallest shim closest to the camera. You can see again where I filed the threads.







After this step, you'll want to install the nut on the end of the shaft. Use the provided red loctite and torque the nut. This torque figure is extremely important because over torquing will result in a compressed stack, you don't want this.

Here is the final product. This will be installed into the cartridge tube and thus ends the process. Rebuild the forks as normal taking care to bleed the cartridge properly and take your time.



The single biggest note I can make to anyone trying this. Be anal retentive about the order in which you remove and install the valve stack. One small miss and you're in for a world of hurt. We've all done it, I've done it, but if you can't remember doing a step, go back and verify it. I'll post this and proofread it but it looks ok to me :)
 
#5 ·
Great writeup, Endo! :)

As a side note, RaceTech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible also explains the process in detail, and is a very worthwhile read for anyone interested in doing suspension work, or even just for optimizing your stock suspension. They also explain the difference between their valving and typical stock valving and why it works better.
 
#12 ·
So first ride update. Huge improvement!!! I'm going to need to carry a screwdriver in my pocket for a while trying to set it up, but way better than stock!

I'll put some road time in and see if I can get it to settle in, but for now I just have to say thanks Josh!

new tires, suspension, brakes, shift kit, clutch, cam tensioner, chain, grips and clips are all running great too BTW (busy off season)
 
#13 ·
nice write up... looks a little tricky. I dont know if i could figure out how fill that webpage out correctly tho, i seen lots of numbers that i dont know where you got them from, lol.
 
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