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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a stock 04 GSXR 600 that is over heating (250 degree range)

Quick Notes:
1) I am running Engine Ice
2) Removed air from coolant per manual
3) Just replaced thermostat
4) Proper amount of coolant
5) Engine Ice added in 2013, no problems then. Bike sat for all of 2014
6) Temp is 179 on highway, hits 220 after a few minutes off highway.
7) Rush Hour stop and go Traffic for ten minutes and I hit 250
8) Fan kicks on at 220

I am thinking of replacing water pump parts but I don't know which pieces are wear items.

Thanks for any advice.
 

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The "just replaced the thermostat" part has me suspicious.

Are both rad hoses hot at operating temp?

Don't know your mileage but water pump failure seems unlikely.
 

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Also just to add, I would look at possibly flushing the radiator. First thing would be check the thermostat, just to be sure. Coolant can circulate enough during highway riding to keep cool however if at a stop and the flow isn't sufficient through the radiator, then it can't cool enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Last night, I swapped out he old thermostat with a new OEM part. I replaced any loss coolant from the swap, which wasn't much.

The vehicle is a theft recovery. It had roughly 8k when it was stolen. I am not sure how many miles are on it.

I didn't warm up the bike and check for cool hoses if that is what you are asking. I just replaced the thermostat because it was a cheap and easy fix. Which turned out not to be a fix.

What is the value of flushing the system again?

I really appreciate the help. Need to get this fixed and don't want to pay a dealership to figure it out.
 

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I'm assuming the radiator itself is clean and in good shape, and doesn't have any silly decorative covers on it.

A gunked up radiator would be extremely uncommon, it just doesn't happen with modern aluminum bike engines. My Z had 35k miles on the original coolant and it still looked like new.

My guess would be a loose pump impeller. Most I've seen are just a press-fit onto the driveshaft with a bolt to hold it in place. If the bolt loosens the impeller can wiggle loose and "freewheel" a bit relative to the shaft. It might push enough water around at high RPM on the highway, but at idle it's likely close to nil. Pop the WP cover off and check that it's tight.

If that's OK, check that the fans are running as strong as they should be. I have seen (admittedly, once) a fan motor that worked but was weak. Didn't push much of any air and the bike would get really hot in traffic. Usually they either work or they don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will break in down this weekend. I can check the water pump and flush the entire system at the same time.

Quick question, if I have the bike idling in neutral, should it get hot enough for the fan to kick on? Mine does.

Quick question, I have seen they offer a metal fan replace for the plastic one currently on the bikes. Does it help? Is it worth the $40 bucks?
 

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I will break in down this weekend. I can check the water pump and flush the entire system at the same time.

Quick question, if I have the bike idling in neutral, should it get hot enough for the fan to kick on? Mine does.

Quick question, I have seen they offer a metal fan replace for the plastic one currently on the bikes. Does it help? Is it worth the $40 bucks?

Yes, extended(more than a few minutes) stationary idling will always raise the temp enough to activate the fan. Typically as soon as the fan starts, the temperature fairly quickly drops back down to 195 or so, where it shuts off again.

I would not see any particular advantage to the metal fan if there is nothing wrong with the plastic one. They were available for the Vmax, a few people ran them and reported absolutely zero difference in operating temps. Fine before, fine after. How much air the fan moves is determined by the amperage of the motor anyway.

If you do a flush, make sure the flush agent is safe for aluminum engines. I have seen some labelled as for aluminum engines or sometimes for "Asian" coolant (the pink stuff) versus the regular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I finally got back to my bike and pulled the water pump off. Everything came apart without an issue and I don't see any damaged or broke parts to indicate if it is the cause.

I was think putting the pump back on without adding coolant and without the cover to see if the fan spins at all. For a few seconds. Good idea or bad one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I did it anyway. I didn't see your post prior to the test. But nothing bad happened.

As a result, the propeller spun which doesn't support the water pump not working.

Actions to date:
1) Checked coolant level
2) Verified system was properly burped (no air in system)
3) Replaced thermostat (It was cheap and easy)
4) Checked water pump, works fine.

Next Action:
Check for blockage in the system? Any other ideas?
 

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On my SV650, I have been having over heating issues.

I took the radiator off and down to a local shop. They attempted to use their pressure hose and blow through the radiator only to find that it was completely blocked...

After two days of acid etching treatments it finally flowed a little more than half of what it should. That little more got me to where I could ride it again in the winter.

As summer has come along, I cannot ride in the higher heats and am replacing the radiator and hoses to try and curb this issue.

May be worth looking into a cheap aftermarket radiator...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My current radiator I bought off of Ebay as damaged for $20. I sent it to a radiator shop that fixed it for $20. It worked much better last year than this year.

When I removed the water pump cover, the radiator did drain, but I have no idea if it drained fast enough or not.

I think I will play with the hoses a bit more. Don't really want to drop a lot of money on this.
 

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The pump impeller was tight to the shaft?

If all that checks out it pretty much has to be the radiator. You can try a flush agent that you add to the coolant, though I've never had a lot of luck with them.

The DIY rad cleaner method is to blast a whole can of the foamy oven cleaner into the rad, let it sit for like an hour, then flush with hot water. This is done on a "dry" rad disconnected from the rest of the system, don't put the oven cleaner in the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What is a good radiator flush agent? I can't say I have ever used one before.
 

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Is my bike ok?
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Stay away from things with muriatic acid in it ( toilet bowl cleaner, etc, ) since it will actually dissolve aluminum.

Razed just said oven cleaner. That typically has lye in it which breaks down organic things very well. After all, soap. I've used oven cleaner to delouse engines and saw no harm to the cases. I'd start there. Or look in to cleaning with vinegar.

The big question, why so many clogged radiators? Is there magnesium involved ( water worms?) Are you running any additives to prevent corrosion?

Knowing what your clogs are made of will tell you what you need to use to dissolve said clogs.
 

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Radiator flushes are available at any auto parts store. It's typically a mild acid/detergent. You drain all the coolant, add the bottle of flush liquid, then fill the rest of the way with water. Drive it for a while, then drain and refill with coolant. As said, I've tried them in the past and never thought they worked particularly well, though it's worth a shot. The water will be dirty when you drain it if the flush did anything.

Take a close look at the fan- is it mounted correctly so it sits tight against the rad? It's running strong? Were it's mounting points re-welded or modified possibly affecting how it sits? Probably 90% of the time when a bike is overheating it's some problem with the fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The fan is working good. Going to try both the oven cleaner and auto parts rad cleaner this weekend.
 
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I have a stock 04 GSXR 600 that is over heating (250 degree range)

Quick Notes:
1) I am running Engine Ice
2) Removed air from coolant per manual
3) Just replaced thermostat
4) Proper amount of coolant
5) Engine Ice added in 2013, no problems then. Bike sat for all of 2014
6) Temp is 179 on highway, hits 220 after a few minutes off highway.

155-160 woud be better
7) Rush Hour stop and go Traffic for ten minutes and I hit 250

with tha fan going that shoud never happen under normal rad conditions,it woud drop to approx. 190 and fan woud turn off then fire back up again when at 215 ish.
8) Fan kicks on at 220

and don't cool tha rad down!

I am thinking of replacing water pump parts but I don't know which pieces are wear items.

Thanks for any advice.

if tha fan aint cooling tha rad then its probably gotta clog somewere,is that nu thermostat in tha rite way up?
 

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PS sorry yer havin probs mate it sure sux especially in tha summer.
 
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