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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Front spokes arrived this afternoon, so I laced up the wheel. The spokes for the rear wheel are coming from Hieden Tuning, so they probably won't be here for a while. Much better looking than the mags I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Just watch who you get your spokes from. The thread on the spokes I bought is longer than stock spokes, so when trued there is about 3mm of thread visible between nipple and hub. Probably wouldn't bother most, but I'm not most! If you blow up the picture you'll see what I mean, the dull grey ones are stock. Not happy, I complained to the seller, GeoffsXS , he now says he wont deal with me and sent me a number of abusive texts and emails. Not that I need him, there are a plethora of XS accessory shops around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Some new stainless spokes for the rear wheel arrived this afternoon, from a different supplier, so I laced the rear wheel with them, notice there's no thread showing.
So I'm stuck with the front wheel with it's visible threads, spoils the whole bike -not happy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I wasn't happy with the original side panels I made, fit and finish wasn't up to scratch and I wanted a bit more meat around the rear bend, so I made two new panels. Here's some pics of the panels at different stages of fabrication. I also spun up some Delrin T spacers for insertion into the two front grommets. These stop the grommets being squished to much and allow the front of the side panels to be extended to the front of the battery box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Some progress shots. Looks much better with spoked wheels. I've taken the carbs off as one diaphragm has been holed, so, I'm tossing up between VM round slides or fixing the BS38 carbs. Not real keen on vacuum carbs, so leaning toward the VM round slides. Damned expensive though at $600. It's come a long way from such a humble beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I have some VM round slides coming next week. I've read the cable interferes with the petcock, standard fare is to tilt the carbs inwards at the top to fix the problem, but, that's a bit too rough for my liking, so to circumvent the problem I made up these two 20mm spacers. Hopefully, these should move the carbs back enough so the cables clear the petcocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I bought some round slide VMs in kit form, they come with extra jets, cables , manifolds and rubber boots for mounting. The kit is put together as a kit expressly for the XS650. However, when I mounted them on the bike I found I had to tilt the carbs over quite a bit for the carb cables to clear the petcocks, amateur hour in my opinion. To stop the carbs hanging up on the petcocks, I turned up an aluminium manifold, 40mm longer than the kit manifolds . It moves the carb back behind the tap, so I can sit the carbs upright and get to the adjusters. Problem with is, the fuel spigot on the tap now gets in the way, so I swapped the taps left to right, right to left, so the spigot now faces forward. Rather than turn the manifold up from one 90mm round, solid lump, I turned the spigot up from a 50 mm piece, leaving a 2.5mm lip at the bottom. I used one of the spacers I turned up beforehand for the flange, enlarged the hole and forced the spigot through. The lip actually seals against the cylinder head stopping the spigot from shaking itself loose. Longer inlet tracts do move the torque curve further down the rev range, but like a lot of performance mods, twin carb conversions, porting, velocity stacks, and so, the difference in performance, particularly on a street bike, would be hard to pick up, only a dyno would pick up the difference. This was only a rough manifold to try it out, I'm happy with this solution, so I'll turn up two identical manifolds over the next few days. Once done, I'll polish the float chambers and screw tops and paint the bodies black to match the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Finished off the right side manifold, looks OK when polished up. Unfortunately, you can see a couple of scraping from where I pressed the two pieces together, I'll try to fix that on the left side. I did make one boo boo with the flange, I drilled the mounting holes before the bore, bad mistake, makes it very difficult to line the three holes up. Oh well, I'm committed now as I've made two flange blanks the same way. Plenty of room to get to the cable adjustment screw and the carb sits vertical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
So, finished machining the second manifold, managed to get the second one identical to the first, well not quite, the second one is 0.02mm longer, but i can live with that. i also turned up a couple of brass spigots, drilled the manifolds and pushed the spigots into place, then polished the second one and bolted them in place. you'll notice the spigots for the balance pipe is tucked up out of the way, bit of a bugger attaching syncing hoses to it, but i didn't want the balance tube seen. urned out quite good, the adjustment cable sits around 10mm behing the tap, so plenty of room to get a spanner in there for syncing. Outlet on the tap now faces forward so it's a bit of a trek to the carb inlets, and damn, the left side carb has the inlet on the same side as the right hand carb, so it's seen. so much for left and right hand carbs.

The carbs have to be supported at the rear via rubbers for vibration. I'll make a two piece polished ally clamp to clamp onto the main frame downtube and go from there.
 

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600er Bandit mit 1052 ccm GSXR Motor
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So, finished machining the second manifold, managed to get the second one identical to the first, well not quite, the second one is 0.02mm longer, but i can live with that. i also turned up a couple of brass spigots, drilled the manifolds and pushed the spigots into place, then polished the second one and bolted them in place. you'll notice the spigots for the balance pipe is tucked up out of the way, bit of a bugger attaching syncing hoses to it, but i didn't want the balance tube seen. urned out quite good, the adjustment cable sits around 10mm behing the tap, so plenty of room to get a spanner in there for syncing. Outlet on the tap now faces forward so it's a bit of a trek to the carb inlets, and damn, the left side carb has the inlet on the same side as the right hand carb, so it's seen. so much for left and right hand carbs.

The carbs have to be supported at the rear via rubbers for vibration. I'll make a two piece polished ally clamp to clamp onto the main frame downtube and go from there.

A feast for the eyes !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Finished off the rear carb mounts and anodised them. The brackets that attach to the carbs were brush finished prior to anodising, whereas the larger brackets was polished prior to anodising, so the finish is slightly different. Everything fits and works as intended, but it's very tight in there. The manifolds sit the carbs 10 mm behind the taps, so I had to swap the taps so the outlets faced forward. The small brackets attach to the larger bracket via a grommet and positive stop T nut, the larger bracket bolts to the front of the battery carrier which is rubber mounted. I also spun up a couple of brass 6mm to 8mm brash fuel line adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I finally had a win. Initially I made the adjuster with a 15mm slot to fit over the swingarm axle mounts. That didn't work too well, scratched the hell out of the paintwork. Next I tried putting a step in the slot, 15mm where the axle slips through and 16mm for the rest, but couldn't get a decent finish inside the slot. I know you can't see inside the slot when it's fitted, but, I know the finish isn't up to scratch. So today I milled the slot out to 16mm for the whole length, papered it reasonably smooth, then put it in the vice and stepped it by bending the ends in to around 15.5mm. Seems to work pretty well, so I'll try making another tomorrow the same way. I think I'm going to have to powder coat the frame though, the acrylic lacquer just scratches and chips too easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I did away with the tacho and voltmeter up top, simplified it by just mounting the speedo on the top tree, I'll put some idiot lights in the headlight bucket.. The voltmeter is now below the right hand side panel. I'll either connect it to the battery via a toggle switch or connect it to the brake light wiring.

I designed and taped up a couple of harnesses a while back, decided to go with two: One for ignition, plus the neutral cable, the other for lighting. A much simplified system for fault finding. Four wires in one, six in the other, although I think I'll delete the neutral cable, don't see any need for that or the tacho. It still needs a little tidying up, a bit raggedy at the moment.

Scraping the barrel for fabrication and machining work now, only have to finish off the wiring and fit brake lines, chain and sprockets and mufflers, nearing the end, what'll I do when I finish. This build has been very enjoyable, learnt lots of new cuss words.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Nobody does anything properly these days. I bought some VMs a month or so ago and found the cable ends that sit in the adjusters on top of the carbs are a very sloppy fit inside the brass adjusters, so today I pulled them out and took some measurements. The hole in the brass adjuster where the cable end sits is 7mm, whereas the cable end is only 6mm doesn't sound like much but that 1mm allows the cable end to flop around inside the adjuster. I spun up a couple of brass sleeves that were 6mm inside and 7.05 on the outside then pressed the sleeves into the adjusters, I couldn't risk making the fit any tighter as the walls of the sleeve were only .5mm thick. All worked out well, now the cables are a good fit, as they should have been from the shop. Why doesn't anybody supply good fitting accessories anymore?

Whilst I was at it I made a Spanner to fit the carb caps so I could tighten them reasonably tight. The spanner is aluminium so as not to scratch the polished caps too much. Previously, when I made the throttle cable, I made the inner cable a bit too long , so the adjuster in the throttle was at the end of it's adjustment, that also had to be fixed by removing the nipple, cutting 8mm off the cable and refitting the nipple.

After putting everything back together I started the bike and synced the carbs at idle, then increased the revs to around 3k and synced again, all good, or so I thought. Then I found as the revs rise upwards of 4-5k the left inlet tract on the left pot loses vacuum putting the carbs out of sync at higher revs. So, I synced the carbs at 4-5k revs then took it back to 3k revs and damn it, the sync is out again. Sync at idle remained constant and even More mucking about to find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Ham fisted. I broke the brass adjuster on the left hand VM, so had to make a new one. Instead of a hex head I knurled the head so I don't have to mess around with an 8mm spanner when adjusting. As you can see, the thread isn't much chop, the only M6 x .75 die I had was a non split die and carbon steel so the thread is a little undersize and a bit ragged. I've ordered a HSS die, so as soon as that turns up I'll make another, plus one for the right hand carb. Might make them from stainless though, stainless is bit hardier than brass. So much for the brass sleeves I made.
 

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