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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Details on the bike: Bought from a starving college student who had it for 2 weeks before deciding it was too fast (pussy). Has close to new tires and a strong drivetrain. Needs a lot of body work and electrical work.

Here's how I bought it:







Got a ride in and then began to tear everything down to get to the guts of it.







The wiring is a mess at this point. There are cut wires and random splices... it might almost be worth it to buy a new OEM wiring harness ($250-$300 w/ options).

Also, I have this little problem:



Exhaust slipon is also very-easy-slip-off. I jerry-rigged it for the ride tonight, but I will need a more permanent solution. I'm thinking about having a shop weld it together (it easily slips on and off) but I would have to take the entire exhaust section off. It wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing though, I'd like to redo the wrap on it. Any suggestions would be great!

List of things to do (no order)

-Mating the Ducati tail section with a Ducati undertail, and mounting it properly.
-Finding a suitable headlight and mount
-Finding a license plate and turn signal bracket for the rear
-Finding front fork mounts for turn signals
-Reworking all hand controls (high/low beam, turn signals, horn, kill switch)
-Buying and installing a speedo/tach/odometer
-Work on the horn
-Engine check and tuneup
-Frame, tank, and rear paint
-Overall cosmetic work
-Overall electrical work (cable management, etc)

If you have any suggestions or comments, please reply! I will need lots of help on this one - it's my first project bike
 

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There is probably a exhaust clamp missing that the PO figured he could just replace with wrap
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is probably a exhaust clamp missing that the PO figured he could just replace with wrap
If I torque it down good should it seal it? There's an 1/8" gap on the top or bottom depending on how it's set on there. Is there any good way to seal it if they exhaust clamp won't seal it?
 

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Are you planning on changing the exhaust out or keeping it? If you're gonna keep it, it may be worth the $20 you might pay for that small weld. Just a thought amigo. Either way, great start!
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you planning on changing the exhaust out or keeping it? If you're gonna keep it, it may be worth the $20 you might pay for that small weld. Just a thought amigo. Either way, great start!
I've decided to keep the exhaust so I will have someone weld it... just have to find a good shop here in Wichita.

I did a whole laundry list of things today but most importantly I took the Yoshimura exhaust apart. There was a small piece of pipe rattling in it and the carbon fiber sleeve was in pretty bad shape.



Here's the steps I did to refurb it:

1. Took all bolts out and removed the bracket
2. Removed the front end and took out all old packing, then removed the sleeve and found the "extra" pipe!
3. Ground down extremely uneven edges on the front end with a grinding wheel
4. Used files to refine the profile of the front end
5. Used a wire brush wheel on a drill press to strip all paint and gunk off
6. Used a random orbital sander with 220grit paper to smooth the front end up
7. Repeated steps 3-6 on the back end.
8. Ground down the baffle section about 5/8" on the grinding wheel to clean up the really rough edges.
9. Used a hacksaw and the orbital sander to get about 1/2" off the carbon fiber sleeve and smooth everything up

This is how it sits right now:



The piece on the far left is actually 2 separate pieces - the endcap where the baffle attaches, and the piece of pipe that sits on a lip inside and sticks up. I used JB weld to set it in place. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that section of pipe is what creates the back pressure to the engine. Here's an example:



Am I correct that the exhaust flowing to the back of the can (red arrows) and having no where to go creates pressure to the engine?

Anyways, I still have the following steps left to fully refurb it:

1. Find 5mm hex head machines screws.
2. Drill and tap to match the thread
3. Repack and reassemble
4. Seal and paint

Then it's off to a shop in Wichita to be welded to the exhaust for good!
 

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The mid pipe must not match the headers. You can buy reducing sleeves at advanced auto parts and the have that welded into place.
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know it's not perfect but it's close, probably 1/8th inch of difference. I figured they could make that up in the weld. I'll put up some exact measurements tonight though.

Am i correct in my assumption of that stubby pipe creating back pressure though? or does it go on the front end?
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Long writeup tonight, but this will be the last one for a while. Gotta scrounge up monies for the next parts I need.

Been a busy couple days on this bike. I'm between my summer job and my last semester of college so it's been good to be able to get my head into the project before I get busy again.

I got the exhaust all refurbed. I bought packing material locally and packed the shit out of it (I fit 90% of a standard pack into an 11" can), then used RTV sealant on the cover and endcaps and also on the bolts. I'm not sure if the can was orignally bolted together or if it was intentionally modded so that it bolts to the cover, but I put threadlocker on the bolts and sealed from the cover to the bolt head, so it should be just fine. I don't think I need clamps ATM. I called Yoshimura and the tech I talked to said the extra piece of pipe that I assumed to help with the back pressure was probably put in to reduce noise after the exhaust had been cut down.

This is what I started with:



This is what I ended with:







Quite a difference I think. While I was letting the sealant set, I called just about every shop in Wichita trying to find a place that would 1) weld an exhaust can onto the pipes and 2) already have a MIG welder with a spool of stainless set up. Finally found a shop around 4pm that said they could get it done in an hour and for $100 cash :100SPIN: I don't know if I got screwed out of $80 or not, but I got back a quality product, welded to the angle that I wanted in the correct orientation, so I'm happy. I also put a few coats of high temp rattlecan on it... I can hear the keys furiously clicking as someone fumes, "YOU CAN'T DO THAT TO A YOSHIMURA!!!" Yes I can :fu: While I was at it I gave the radiator some fresh paint. I think it turned out well, I'm going to try to find some high temp clear coat though.





Next thing I tackled was the electrical system, specifically the harness... Let me tell you, it looks like a chopped up piece of shit to me. I can fix some things and figure out where some wires are cut and spliced, etc, but I would have to find new plugs because the idiot before me didn't leave proper pigtails off the plugs. I think I'm going to have to buy an OEM harness. It would really help with troubleshooting in case something doesn't work. It's only a couple hundred dollars so it shouldn't be a big deal.

Harness (and my fat looking foot)



This I can fix (on ignition switch)



But with this i'm like "WTF"



Among other things, I also sanded and primed the frame for flat black, degreased the engine, and worked on some body work. This build still needs about $1300-$1500 worth of parts and a winter's worth of work to get it where I want it but it should be clean when I'm done. I would post pics of it after I was done priming but I kinda forgot to take those today.

A total "Shit..." moment



Clean!



I will try to post a picture as it stands before I leave for school on Saturday. In case you are interested, here's my current parts list:

Speedometer/tachometer/odometer
OEM wiring harness
Coolant, oil, and brake fluid changes
Heat shrink wrap & electrical connectors
Grips
Exhaust gaskets
Body filler and paint
K&N air filter
Spark plugs and wires
Ducati tail light
53mm/54mm fork clamps
Headlight
Round windscreen
Running lights
LED turn signals

Thanks for reading, next time I post will likely be near the end of September when I get some parts in.
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Big update tonight.

I got a lot of parts in:

- TrailTech Vapor gauge and indicator dashboard
- OEM harness, spark plug boot, exhaust gaskets, and gas tank collars
- 05 Yamaha R6 tail light
- LED front turns
- handlebar grips
- Dominator headlight

Also ordered but have not received:

- Fiberglass material
- Carbon fiber triple tree decal (there's some bad scratches on the top)
- More exhaust wrap (i used it all)

I ditched the Ducati tail section for a self made fiberglass tail section. I masked off the subframe, and used Great Stuff foam to give myself a block of foam to work with.

I cut to shape (took forever, stuff doesn't cure very well when it's 8" thick in places), sanded, bondo'd some holes, and laid aluminum foil over the top with spray adhesive to prepare for fiberglass next weekend.















Here's a tail view and side view of what the fiberglass will look like... hopefully.





During the cure times and some other down time I had this weekend, I mounted the headlight and turn signals. Turn signals are put in a hole through the headlight brackets.



Also painted the tank (just a rattle can finish right now, will go with a more expensive 2K catalyzed urethane spray can at some point) but the scheme is matte black frame / gloss white tank and tail. When I started stripping paint off the tank, I used some aircraft paint remover and it barely did anything. I got out the orbital sander and found out why - 5 coats of paint, all with primer base, color coat, and clear coat. I got it down to bare metal in places but I kinda ran out of sandpaper. I used all the stripper I had as well. It didn't turn out too bad but when I go to 2K, I'll get it to bare metal everywhere for sure.



Here's a couple shots of what the bike looks like now (use your imagination to fill in the gaps/color 75% of the bike)





I also changed out the spark plugs, fixed the loose spark plug wire I had, began wrapping the exhaust, and cleaned my garage up. All that's left is on this bench:

 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
overall, its my favorite look of the bike. The fiberglass will be cool because I designed and made it (although it may look funky to others) but the front of the bike sets it apart for me.
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if the aluminium foil is the base and it's been rolled over with a mini roller to be as smooth as possible, will that work for the fiberglass? I figure it will be the underside so it won't matter as much. I'll be sanding the glass smooth and using body filler and glaze to fill in everything.

Any tips mixing/using bondo? The stuff I used this weekend to fill in some holes seemed really difficult to work with. I'm not sure if I used too much hardener or what?
 

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I just meant get as close to the shape as possible with the plyable stuff. Once you have glass on, it can be sanded and bondo'd and all that, it's just easier if you're closer. Less to sand! As far as the bondo goes, I'd just pay attention to the mix and temperatures that you're using it at. I'm certainly no expert, but when I use/used it, I was always using it in a somewhat warm (70 degree) environment. Not sure if it's cold there, etc. I'd just make sure you measure out the hardener and all that. Also, keep the materials in a good room temp kinda place, know what I mean? Mine are in my garage, but my garage is heated so it's not a huge temp difference.
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just meant get as close to the shape as possible with the plyable stuff. Once you have glass on, it can be sanded and bondo'd and all that, it's just easier if you're closer. Less to sand! As far as the bondo goes, I'd just pay attention to the mix and temperatures that you're using it at. I'm certainly no expert, but when I use/used it, I was always using it in a somewhat warm (70 degree) environment. Not sure if it's cold there, etc. I'd just make sure you measure out the hardener and all that. Also, keep the materials in a good room temp kinda place, know what I mean? Mine are in my garage, but my garage is heated so it's not a huge temp difference.
The shape it's in right now is what I want. Bondo was mixed for a 3" circle 1/2" deep of filler with a 3" strip of hardener. Maybe the "strip" i used was just too big? I'll try it again this weekend. It's also pretty warm here, mid 70s-80s. I will keep it inside though next time, it dropped into the low 60s while it sat outside.

How many layers of 1.5oz mat should I use overall? Its not a structural piece but I don't want it to be flimsy. It will bolt into the sides near the top front of the subframe on each side and rest on the top of a bracket holding the seat release.

the bike is looking bad ass man. i gota question for you though, do you have plans for that old tail????
The original ducati tail section? Not at the moment. It's in pretty rough shape though, I began sanding it down to color coat it then changed my mind.
 

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Forearm of Steel
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I need some major help.

I got the bike started again today (damn thing took forever but finally got fuel in the lines). Got the idle adjusted, but when I put the bike in first and let the clutch out slowly with a little gas, it dies. I did this 3 or 4 times and I'm not sure what to do or what the problem is.

I've also got a host of electrical issues - can't get the headlights wired up correctly, LED turn signals do not flash (I know I just need a flasher unit or a resistor) and my Vapor gauge lights aren't working correctly. If anybody has any ideas for me, I'll post pictures.

I'm off to drain the rest of the coolant, tighten up all of the hoses (it was leaking like a son of a bitch) and fire it up again.. hopefully I'll get it right.
 
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