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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys
I signed up a while back and said hi in the Newbie welcome page. There were some pics of the early stages.
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84282


Now, the project has progressed a little further... straight bars on, bracket made for the cowl and aftermarket speedo. I need to change the angle of the bracket for the cowl. Actually wiring in the lights and the speedo will be a bit of a challenge. Pics to follow if anyone is interested in the bracket or the bar conversion.

I am on here today to see if I can source panels to block the gap between the frame and the tank. Are there any suppliers in the UK?
 

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Looks cool man, Very triumph esque with that cowl :)

that an F3? I have an F4i rear shock here if its any good to you, direct bolt on to F3 ( thats what it came off at least) and has full adjustment. be cheap if you want it fella!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the offer. I don't know which model code this is. It is a 1998 S reg. Carb model.
I haven't properly ridden the bike yet so I don't know what the rear suspension is like but I will bear it in mind. I am in Kazakhstan at the moment and won't get back to the bike until mid May.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Straight bars conversion

Straight bars conversion was achieved by using the pictured units which attach to the fork tops in place of the standard bar. Cost approx 50GBP on UK ebay made bespoke new. Cheaper than getting a CNC top yoke and less hassle than drilling holes for the bolt on variant.

BTW, the fork diameter for the 1998 CBR1100XX is 43mm.

I will have to experiment with the correct drop on the forks. Currently the top yoke is approximately the same as the stock height but I have 6mm jack up on the rear and might want to drop another 10mm on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bracket for clock and cowl

Cowl bracket.
I decided the simplest way was to create a bracket which will be held in by the ignition barrel bolts.

These happen to be specialist bolts with no slot (for obvious security reasons). - pic 1

So I slotted the bolt heads (pic 2) with a Dremel cutting disc and they screwed out with a flathead screwdriver.

The bracket is cut from an alu panel (pushplate) which you find on swing doors which push both ways. Cost less than 2GBP. The angled bracket, bought from the same hardward store was 39 pence and is a retaining bracket for fence posts. I bent it to the correct position for the cowl to sit upon the lights and attached the alu length of angle which I found in the junk bin in my dad's garage.

In fact, this turned out too flimsy and 1cm too short. I will reinforce or remodel this with stiffer allu. But basically I want it to hold the clock panel and the cowl at once and and make it move with the forks when steering. The headlights also are attached to the fork stanctions unlike a Speed Triple which has clock, cowl and lights mounted on a central bracket extending from the front of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I realise my project is pretty basic and easy, but then I am a newbie. I just wanted to document stuff in case it's useful.

I got the lights wired in today after some trial and error on which wires came from the light switch and the full beam switch.

The next job is the speedo. I bought a very basic unit from 00Racing.com in the UK for 50 GBP. (see here). Using a wiring diagram I was given from the very helpful guys at CBRxx.com, I was able to identify the correct wires in the loom for the various warning lights etc.

I bought small screw-down electrical connectors for hooking up the lights and will use some for connecting the speedo. I bent open the contact for each wire I need from the Honda connector to connect to the speedo wiring. See pic.

I need to determine how best to earth the speedo and which wire to connect to for ignition switch and main power.

The speedo unit is mounted in the plastic fascia of the Triumph cowl. I cut an aperture the same shape as the speedo using a Dremel cutting tool. One mounting point on the speedo happens to bolt nicely to a hole provided in the Triumph plastic. The speedo is kept in place by this and by pressure from the bracket behind. That is all. But it doesn't move or rattle.
The yellow insert is made of card which I have created as a template. I will use this to cut a piece of carbon fibre look-alike to fill the gap. I will also create an infill piece to cover the nuts and bolts of the cowling bracket.

Indicators were easy, bolt on and connect to the Honda bullet connector wires.

The problem of the length of the clutch and brake hoses was tackled with junction units from old bikes. The pictured example is from a CB350. Any similar item will do, providing it has 'one in, one out'. Some such units split one into two using three conduits. The item used was originally supposed to split one line into double stacked hose ends. I used two short bolts which clamp one hose at each end.

I just need to bleed the brakes and connect the wires from the speedo and I should be on the road.... When it's working and legal, I will make a better bracket for the cowling, tidy the wires, give it a clean and then start saving for some infill panels from Germany to cover the huge gap around the air intakes (gemo-fighters). Crazy money.
 

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