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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As presented in my newbie thread, here is my contribution to the Fighter scene.



For those who have not read the into thread, the full mod list:

-Fairings removed of course, the single seat tail is made by Airtech Streamlining
-Projector headlights with traditional halogen bulbs, modified parking bulb. Twin tail light self made (minus the actual lights)
-Front fender shortened
-Dirtbike handlebars, modified top triple & clamps, adjustable shorty levers, bar end mirrors, brake fluid reservoir, Wezmoto custom length steel brake lines (came out a tad too long, might have to replace later)
-Hands free keyless ignition, lock removed
-Koso RX-2 gauge
-About half of the wiring redone
-Seat re-upholstered (word of caution, orange vinyl absolutely absorbs all crap!)
-Crash cage self fabricated
-Headers polished
-Samco sport blue silicone coolant hose kit modified from 04-> set, custom made stainless T-bit& permaquick type stainless hose clamps for a cleaner look
-Danmoto adjustable rearsets modified to accomodate the original foldable footpegs instear of the ugly rigid stubs
-Danmoto JISU muffler with self made baffle & midpipe, ProJection components lasercut hanger
-Rear mudguard/plate holder self made
-4x Knife type LED indicators, digital relay
-Custom paintjob, orange stripes painted, graphics hydrodipped over silver basecoat and covered with three layers of candy blue clearcoat
-RK Gxw 530 blue superlink chain, -1 front sprocket
-Loobman chain oiler
-12v cigarette output socket near left rearset for navigator and heated jacket ( I like to do longer rides specially towards autumn and the mornings are still cold here long into june)
-Hugger and chainguard hydrodipped in carbon fiber pattern
-Coolant expansion tank modified from a 1kg fire extinguisher (no, that is not a NOS bottle)



From two years of building I have several hundreds of pictures and build threads 12 pages long on other forums so not going to post all of that here, if someone wants to know how I did some spesific thing just ask and I probly can shoot you with multiple pictures and a thorough explanation. Will be documenting my forays with the bike here henceforth, the first thing for me with this one is to change the sprocket ratio. I practically never use the sixth gear, and IMO the first gear is ridiculously long so if anyone has suggestions on how to change the sprocket ratio so that it will be able to lift up the front wheel with the throttle only but not howl it`s head off at 60mph or so, please do post them. If the sprocket change is taking too big of a toll on the high rev horsies I`m prepared to go full monty on this one and adding a turbo to it. That however would mean serious studying on the subject and advanced engine work so that is kind of a last ditch effort if I cannot tweak sufficient power out of it any other way. either way that is not going to happen anytime soon since I just got the bike ready and am still getting used to it so IF the turbo thing happens it`s not going to do so at least in the next year or two but I`m keeping that door open.

I`ve been trying to think of a name for this bike but have not come up with anything useable. Something like "biomecafe" has crossed my mind but since it`s not a cafe anymore cause of the dirty bars I`ve ended up just calling it the Daytona that it is... suggestions welcomed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


Bit premature for that, but keeping the option open ;) it does have massive low end torque but a bit lacking in the top end, would probly be wise to take it to a specialist and do a few dyno pulls to see if the map should need some weaking, probly could use some screwing around cause it does have a tendency to pop the pipe if I do an open throttle acceleration and then engine brake right after.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any suggestions for the rear sprocket? I've not played around with the gearing earlier so don't know how big a difference one or five teeth makes. I'm not planning to make a wheelie monster out of it but do want to make the front a bit more easy to lift. I don't remember the teething of the front wheel but it is a -1 so it's probly a 16 or a 17, the rear sprocket is 44. Will a, say 46, make much difference or should I go further?

EDIT: well that was kind of easy pickens. The shop guy called me a moment ago and said 46 is the biggest he can get for the DSSA rim so I ordered that. Also got confirmation when coming home from the city that it WILL go into front tire saving mode with the throttle only as is, I just have to apply it sufficiently.
 

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Those things in bog stock form with the tupperware are all about their rear wheel antics. Most of it is just down to technique. Big triples like a little throttle to about 3000rpm, throttle closed, then whack it back open as far as you're brave. Should be scraping the number plate in no time. Little triples like mine need about 6000rpm before you apply the same technique :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
8That's pretty much what I did and off it went. Brought it back down right away cause I wasn't really trying to 12-o-clock it but rather gradually find the spot where it goes. And yes this thing has heaps and heaps of low end torque which is why I like it so much. Probly gonna have to swap my cush drive rubbers though before practicing too much, there's quite a bit of play there and I'm worried I'll damage the stud bolts where the sprocket attaches to. Aggravating trying to clutch away in rush hour traffic cause it's hitting my hands constantly.

Scared the cheese out of one Vito driver, no real danger anywhere and I had plenty of time to slow down to where he was but stil slammed on the brakes and seemed to be cursing me ;) side note, he WAS coming from behind a yield sign and would have had time to make the turn in front of me as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Started a little mini project today as I happened to get a hold of some material for free (and bought a little more)



First off I needed to cut out some bits. The shavings clogged the vacuum port immediately so I managed to make a helluva mess. That white rod I got for free, and the black one I went and bought. The material is called Acetal copolymer, or more commonly known as POM C. Nylon would have been better for the black part but they only had white so I went with that, even though it is much denser and harder so it might split if hit hard enough, but hopefully I`ll never really need these.

Keep in mind that this is just a crude proof-of-concept test, not a finished product.



The super scientific method of finding the center.



The fact that the hole is oval is made on purpose. The fact that it`s off-centered is not. But it doesn`t matter.



Man this stuff really IS hard! Difficult to get a drill to bite. I first made a 20mm hole for the first 15mm or so, and then drilled through with a 10mm bit.



I then sawed a 45 degree cut to the white part with a mitre box...



...to create a crude wedge-anchor, hence the oval hole.







Works like a charm and bites really hard with minimal need to tighten the bolt. The hole is ever so slightly off-centered but I don`t suppose it`ll show that much once I`ve sanded a bevel to the outer edge.



As expected the rear pipe is sitll hitting the ground a little. Realized about half a second late that it would have been a wise idea to put some cartboard in between there and managed to make slight markings on the pipe, I was able to somewhat fade them out with a black marker though...



Still feels strange to tip the bike over on purpose...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
By all means I don't have any rights to it :) Suutarilan Etra was the place where I bought the black axel, it does cost 87eur per meter so I only bought 20cm of it. As said the white rod I got for free, got lucky with it as the inner diameter of the crash cage crossbar is 42mm and the white rod is 41 so it's a real snug fit. I'd reckon aluminum would work just as well if you have better access to that and actually some alus are probly softer than that rod.

Already waiting for Friday ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The parts shop guy called me today just before I got from work so I went to get the new tank bag and the rear sprocket, and as soon as we got the boy to stay in bed the Daytona had a dentist`s appointment. Straight forward job nothing to tell there, even the chain was just the right length all I needed to do was to screw the tighteners in from about 2/3 to 1/3 and slightly adjust the loobman chainoiler`s applicator on the sprocket. After that I took a short drive to this one straight I know that had very minimal traffic at 11pm, first gear, revs around 3500, no clutchbombs, no on-off-on-throttle flips, just a brutal twist of the tube and braooooohhshit it`s up! I was able to do it several times in a row, although just very small clumsy practice hops since I`ve watched quite a few youtube vidoes on the subject and the carrying theme on all was go slow or go over. The highway speed revs also seem to settle in a more usable rev range than before and I can actually imagine using the sixth gear outside the motorway as well. As I was getting back downtown I actually did one accidental wheelie when accelerating from a crossroads so the bike surely has enough grunt to do it but the rider is going to need a loooot of practice! I also suddenly realized what some people are complaining about the throttle tube movement being too long, if you want to really wring it open there`s quite a twist to be done, and if you`re pulling a wheelie in that position you`re turning the handlebars to the right which is not a good thing when you`re heading back down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·




Got time to finish the crash bungs today. I was actually going for a somewhat rugged look but they did come out a bit more... scrapey than what I had planned so might sill give them a light sanding with water later. Or not...



Finally got round to clean up the garage as well, it was starting to get pertty damn messy again so had to pick myself from the neck and get cleaning. Was ready at around 1am...



Also finally managed to actually build that chemical shelf I`ve been talking about for the last year, also gonna move all the bolts to the pickup boxes under the shelf once I buy six more boxes and three rails for them to get two rows.



Cleared up some room under the socket holders, gonna have to move some stuff around to get more space and logic to the wall. Also gonna go buy some more holders for the ratchets and pliers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·


Went for a little shopping spree the other day to the hardware stores, bought more socket holders so I can get all the 3/8:s to the wall too, some plier and wrench "rakes" and the cross slide vice for the bench drill. That is something I`ve coveted for years but never got around to actually buying. It`s cheap and it shows, basically just for chasing punch marks in a straight line, the drill cannot take sideways forces anyway so no milling on these. Except maybe for wood or plastics. Wasn`t able to find the exact same modular boxes under the chemical wall so the bolts will have to wait for a while. Don`t want two kinds of boxes there, if I absolutely must I`m gonna replace the lower row with different kinds but not from between row. Call me anal but I like things to be symmetrical. A small thing but it`s my zen space so it has to be like I want it to be.



Speaking of things anal bought some relieve for my posterior as well. That however creates another problem because to get it on and off I need to tackle the seat fixing issue I`ve put up till later.



Because of the single seat tail these holes are the only point of access to the bolts that hold the seat in place, I`ve meant to do a better method of removing the seat before the bolt ends round out, and guess what they did? yep, both. Having paid a thousand euros for the paint job I was a little apprehensive trying to bend and ease the tail fairing off around the seat, I knew it could be done but the one time I did it before painting it, it kept an omenous creeking and cracking sound so I pulled it back as far as I could and from the gap created I was able to painstakingly slowly wiggle the bolts off with longnose pliers from the sides and got the tail off without damage.



Got a brilliant yet simple idea while driving past a hardware store at work. Why don`t I just use a latch mechanism from a regular door. It`s ugly as hell but who`s gonna know, it cannot be seen from any direction once the seat is in place and I`m not gonna post pictures of it in the internet or anything... :rolleyes: This however unfortunately means I must drill a third hole for the square axel what is to be used as a tool to open the latch but luckily they are in a place hardly no one ever looks at. Probly gonna take the whole tail apart again next winter and try to fill the now useless other holes somehow.



Little grinding there and it`s pretty much done. The angle iron and the lock will act as stoppers for each other so when I push the seat down the latch will grab the square hole and lock the seat down, and when I want to remove it I`ll just insert the square axel to the hole and turn the lock open. I actually prefer to have a mechanism that requires a tool to get open so the potential thief would have some work to do before getting straight access to the keyless ignition brain box wirings.








I don`t think I`ve posted these here before. This is how the bike looked like the day I dragged it home. Now that I look at them kinda hard to believe it`s the same bike... not a whole lot of things in it that didn`t need attention...





...and here`s the `91 CBR 600 f2 that I had until I eventually and unfortunately was more or less forced to sell it to raise enough money to finish the Daytona. On one hand I miss it like an old friend and on another I don`t... Quite the mod list on that one too including double exhausts, Airtech tail, riser clipons etc etc... and 117tkm on the clock which is getting to be somewhat high in a country that has snow at wintertime...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Many good things cane with that bike. It was my first real motorcycle (don't count 125cc:s as such) I learnt to both ride and wrench bikes with that thing. It had 91tkm on the clock when I bought it at 2011 and 117 when sold this spring so I rode a total of 26.000 km:s on the bike, made my first abroad trip (on a bike) to Estonia two years ago with a girl I met at another forum, and who is now my dearest friend. So there were many emotional strings attached to the bike and I have to admit seeing it go did raise a lump on my throat, but it was getting a bit old, I don't really need two working bikes, it's one for the ride and one for the wrench IMO, and I thought I was hearing this slightly dragging/rolling hum from the engine that I knew wasn't the notorious cam chain so I figured better pass it forward and let someone use the remaining km:s it has to give to learn how to ride. Honestly if some cap headed teen would have come to look at it to turn it into a fighter or to thrash the life out of it I wouldn't have sold it to him, the guy that came to pick it up was nearing his fourties and planning to rejuvinate his youth hobby of riding bikes so I was happy to let it go with him. Even did a thorough service to it on my own account so I knew it was at it's best when it left me.

Kind of between should the next project be this steampunk style all metal XC500 cafe I've been planning or should I save that for later since I doubt the 32hp would keep me enthusiasted to it for too long. Another option would be to get a cbr 1000f, the older the better, and slam it. Would be interesting to see how low and sleek I could get it to be. I once was looking at building a "Hurricafe" but there's just so much electrics and do-hickeys on that bike that it simply wouldn't look bare bones enough. With a slammer I could build some kind of side fairings at least for the tail to hide as much stuff as possible.

Or I could just keep the Daytona for several more years and slap a leaf blower to it. Dunno could the motor take it without re-enforcing the crank, probly lower comp mugs, different cams etc... could end up costing more than a new project from start to finish, and I'm not that good with things that spin fast in oil...

Edit: Yikes just checked. There are a few companies that make turbo kits for the 955i like Racecomp Australia, although that is a supercharger but anyway, it costs 5k! With the added freights to finland, VAT taxes at customs, building costs and the added value of the retail value of my bike as is of approx 5-6k we're talking about 12-13 thousand euros, which would easily buy me a near new bike! No point what so ever. Besides it already has 146hp which for an under a 1000cc bike is a lot as is.

Dunno for some reason I'd like to build something totally quirky. I've seen some pretty cool pics of a cbr 1k chopper but for some reason can't find it right now. We'll see, probly can't start a new project for a few years anyway but whatever it is it has to be old enough to have an iron frame. Easier to mod cause I can weld it myself and the regulations are much looser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·




Got the seat latch mechanism done last night. I drilled another holes to the bracket legs and filed them to create adjuster slots. Not pretty but works. Also welded a square head socket to the handle hole so it can be opened with a half inch ratchet or if in a pinch basically anything that will turn the socket enough.



I just love this thing. Fully automatic, basically the only things you have to touch are the power button and the twist knob to adjust the material thickness. When you learn what it does with what thickness you don't have to touch the other settings at all, if you don't want to. With my welding skills doesn't make a difference fiddling with them anyway.



Thanks to the cross slide vice I was able to drill seven holes in a slightly overlapping zigzag pattern and one hand filing session from hell later ended up with this. Not bad IMO. I tried milling the hole but I've been told that the morse chuck in the drill cannot take sideways loads and it sure sounded exactly like that so I stopped pretty quickly.



Latch in place. It's not THAT bad... specially since no one can see it with the seat in place.



I adjusted the position so that when I drop the seat in place the angle iron sits on top of the latch...



...and when I push the seat down it bends a little dropping down to it's place. One more push from the rear end locks the seat with a very satisfying *click*
Success!



A little crappy picture but I can now remove the seat by twisting the socket from the undertail. I plugged the old two holes with furniture plugs but the socket sits so close to the undertail that it hits the plug so it doesn't fit, at least without modification. If excessive amounts of crap doesn't fly in probly gonna leave it open.





I can now get the gel seat pad on and off for longer trips. Had to try a few different ways to get the straps on so that the pad doesn't move around.







This is a good example why I love the paintwork so much, the shade changes very radically from light blue in a direct sunlight to almost black in the shade when looked at from an angle. That is also the only angle when you can see that the tail fairing sits very slightly crooked to the left. I don't know has the subframe bent from a crash before me or what it is but if I twist it so that it is straight, none of the bolt holes align. Doesn't really matter though cause you have to know to notice and basically compare the lines to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is there any electric wizards here? The other day my gauge cluster stopped working yet again, I chased down a break in the gauge wake up wire, fixed it but still no worky. Further investigation revealed that the wire is fine but for some reason my ECM is not giving out the wake up signal, pin E2 in the light gray connector is cold! I zeroed the fault memory in hopes of it curing the issue but no, still no gauge. So now I need to either figure out is my ECM busted or what? Other than that the bike works as good as ever, only the gauge is cold. I suppose I could steal the wake up signal from say the light circuit or if all else fails have the lights drive an additional relay for the gauge. I'm going to visit a friend at the turn of the month that lives over 300km away and we're gonna go do a trackday so I HAVE TO get the gauge working again before that!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Found the issue. The gauge itself has broken, is shorting and has propably burned the wake up circuit from the ECM. Even if I give the gauge wake up wire straight battery power all it does is light up the rev counter backlights but does not fire up. 270eur gauge busted in a few months. Pissed beyond belief atm. Gotta do the trackday trip relying on my navi and keeping the tank full enough so the gas cannot run out as I do NOT have the money nor the motivation to go through the entire setting up and calibrating process of a new gauge right now.

Also ordered a new rear tire today, gonna get a Michelin pilot power, didn't ask is it a 2ct or a 3 but assuming the latter...

Any opinions on should I go old skool with two bullet gauges or futurstic with completely digital? Cause IMO both would suit the bike. Kinda leaning on didjital, thinking of a trailtech...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ha! What warranty?! The entire process of making the gauge work has been an uphill battle to what neither the retailer, Koso europe, Koso north america OR the mother company in wherever taiwan or something has provided NO HELP AT ALL. I have sent numerous emails to the mentioned parties, and the ONE only response I've had was from koso north america to contact koso europe, which I replied having tried repeatedly to no avail, but never rwceived any further contact. So once I realized there practically is no warranty for this fairly pricey product since no one is willing to take responsibility I was left with few chances but to gut the malfunctioning multi-pin connector from the back and solder the wires straight into the contactor pins in the circuit board which btw are not shorting I checked. I have one thing left to check which is to cut all the wires except the constant hot, ground and wake up to see if the gauge itself is shorting or something else is causing it to go into a some kind of a failsafe mode but a slightly colored spot in the bottom edge of the LCD display hints that something is probably fried within. The wake up circuit nevertheless is now fried and rendered useless in the ECM so I wll have to be using the original gauge backlight wire as a new wake up. It is fused which is good but it does dip out during starting so a little unsure about what a new digital gauge will think of the constant flipping on and off...

I've said it before and I say it again, I have bought two koso products. The first and the last. I could somewhat tolerate the contact failure in the connector as well as the other problems I've had IF someone would have stood up and offered a hand saying our bad we'll send you a new connector which probly costs them 19cents a pop if even that but now I'm ranting about them all over the bike forums giving them the bad credit they in my opinion well deserve.

I am currently in the planning process of building a fairly large RC camera quadcopter capable of lifting some dead weight and will be holding onto the gauge unti I finish the build, hoist it a few hundred meters into the sky and drop it onto something hard. Video will follow.
 
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