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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 Vmax Fighter Project: "Cruise Missile" 187rwhp

I've been out of the building scene for a couple years now as I have been racing CVMA, M1GP, STTARS, and FUN. I've had a ton of fun racing but I still love my street bikes and I like building custom stuff. Work has changed for the better and I have more money to play with. Now, one thing I've learned over the years is that with us guys no matter what you make... you spend the same percentage on your toys. So just keep that in mind. The parts may have a higher sticker price but the percentage is all the same whether a builder is scrimping and saving for a part, trading actual money for 100 hours labor, etc. We all just want to ride something bad ass.


So I bought this Vmax "used" with 260 miles on it and saved about $5k. It already had the carbon scoops and carbon gauge cover when I bought it.

Here it is the weekend I bought it. It had the passenger backrest and luggage rack along with some gay skeleton hand mirrors. I had to remove those immediately.



First on the list was an exhaust and ECU flash. The flash removes the top speed limit and provides full power in every gear. I had GURU'ed Gear do the flash and remap on my stock ECU and I bought a Brock's 4-into-1 all black exhaust.


In an effort to qualify the topic, here is the dyno sheet from the testing done after the exhaust and ECU flash:
(DOUBLE POST) Sorry, did some editing for this thread.




I went 4-into-1 as it makes the most horsepower. Connecting all of the head pipes allows each cylinder to scavenge from each other. You need to run a longer exhaust can if you want more top HP as the back pressure provides better flow at top speed. Not sure why, just what I'm told. If you're running a stubby can or an exhaust tip "slash cut" deal, it's making a lot of noise but not helping your HP numbers.

I had to pull the bike apart to swap the ECU, pulled the exhaust and swapped to the 4-into-1. The exhaust was a bit of a pain in the ass.


I took it drag racing with the OEM tires and no changes for drag racing. Got into a pretty low time and a good 60ft. Obviously I have to work on my reaction times. I am out of practice with drag racing.


I ran the #919 when I was in the street category but had to swap to an 800 number when I ran faster than 7 seconds. I got #807 and won that night for quickest Pro-cycle class bike.


Running below a 7 second pass in the 1/8th at RaceLegal now requires that I run a lanyard. I had to install a dead man lanyard on the ignition switch. I didn't want to splice the harness so I just ran an eyelit screw into the ignition switch with some epoxy. Used a $15 jetski wrist lanyard and Boom! Done deal and passes tech.



So, now it was time to get back into the looks of the bike....
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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3,743 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I wanted to finish blacking most of the bike out so I went with wrinkle black powder coat on the aluminum bits. I stayed away from the foot stays and the caps for the swingarm pivot bolt because your shoes/boots always end up rubbing them enough to remove the coating. I also added a set of CRG arrow mirrors.

Stock photo from CRG:

They didn't mount up with the stock bar so a buddy milled a channel into the billet bar ends that were on the bike when I got it and now they mount perfect.


Here is how it sits today (not finished read below these pics)







Now, before you get bored with me.... Money got sent yesterday to solve the ugly cruiser fender on this bike. I'm not a fan of the duck bill fender. It's lightweight and well made, but I always liked the Fighter styled Vmaxs I've seen.

So I bought this.


It requires cutting the subframe shorter (something you all love to do!) and I will have to rework and move a bunch of shit around. It will end up letting the bike look like this when I'm done




I'm not doing that 300mm wide tire setup but you get the idea. I'm keeping the factory '12 flat black paint but I will be adding in some fun touches.

After the tail I have a few other items on the list of mods:
Paint
Sato Rearsets
Dynojet PCV
Quickshifter
LSL Carbon bars
License plate bracket locating it over the wheel:



Maybe a few carbon bits and some radiator shrouds. we will see.


Stay tuned.
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I honestly believe the majority of the weight to this bike comes from the motor itself. It's a 1,679cc V-4 and has a ton of shit involved with the design.

Cut Away shot of the 2nd Gen motor:
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Photos of me having fun with the Vmax at the drag strip:


 

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Shane liberty builds are amazing every time can't wait to see how you do the vmax
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UPDATE:


I've been waiting for the part to show up from France and it finally got here today!









I'll post up some work on the subframe soon. Can't jump on this today. Probably this weekend. Too much happening at work.
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so I had a cancellation for a meeting and ended up with 3 hours to goof around before my personal trainer.



I stripped the stock fender and undertail off the bike:


Food for thought: The Vmax Tail light is pretty narrow and only mounts with two pop rivets. Would be a nice tail light for someone looking to do a cool 'fighter tail with a custom light. The OEM unit is reliable.





So this tail requires chopping off the end of the subframe to get everything kicked up a tad. How much was this bike worth retail again? Ah fuck it. Where's my Hacksaw?
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


Marked and measured for the points to cut. Need a 45 degree cut to clear the inside of the tail

This company offers a block of aluminum that you can use to reattach the subframe if you want to go back to stock. I won't be using it but I went ahead and drilled each end of the cut so that I could possibly offer this option to a future buyer. Luckily, the stock subframe is bolt-on so I could always buy a straight stock unit and fix the whole deal.


I had to pull the wheel to get the undertail out but once that was pulled the new tail slipped on rather easy. I didn't have to drill any mounts. This was easier than doing my race bodywork. Here's some shots of the setup. I am going to have it painted most likely this month. Going to paint the fender and tank cover along with it. Not sure on the color just yet.





The tail came with a passenger seat that is done up in the stock styled upholstery. I'll take photos of that later. I'm pleased with the results so far. Here's a short list of future work:

Paint
Remapping the ECU again this time with Cyclemall to set the bike up to run here in Cali (Too rich right now)
Bazzaz quick shifter
LSL Carbon Handlebar
Sato Rearsets

Either way, it's a fucking monster. :)
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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3,743 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't see any customer photos of this tail installed from Optimal Carbone so I am happy to post mine up for future knowledge. Maybe no one likes this tail and that's why but I love it. A little something different yet in the same vein as the 1st Gen 'Fighters I've seen.


I appreciate the cruiser lifestyle but I still don't see this bike as a cruiser and I'm digging the wild nature of a modified Max. The owners of Optimal have been very helpful and they have great communication. They don't speak English but they are kind enough to translate every email they send my way.



So I installed the new tail to check clearances and to verify that it would fit easily without any further mods once it's painted. It goes on pretty easy and only requires the removal of the rear wheel to slip the tail in completely. Here is the short list of things you have to mod:

-Undertail (2) pieces
-Rear Fender
-Pull the rubber flap guarding the rear shock and mount it to the new tail
-Re-route the harness from the outside of the right rail on the subframe to the inside. (easy deal)
-Disconnect the regulator rectifier and re-install it on the inside of the new tail
-Cut the end of the subframe off. They provide a brace that allows you to re-attach this piece if you wanted. Side note: The subframe unbolts on the Vmax so you could always buy a new or used OEM piece that's not cut. It's not a permanent change if you don't want it to be.
-Wire up the new tail light and signals. The new tail light comes with easy-to-use clamp connectors that allow you to clip the wiring together and use the stock OEM connectors that plug into the harness. To prevent damage to the harness, I cut the OEM style connector off of the integrated tail light I had bought for the Max before and just plugged it in. It's possible to purchase these connectors through a dealership if you wanted, thereby saving your tail light.


Pretty much everything else is simple. I plan to add a little padding on key spots of the new taillight to prevent the tail from scratching the plastic lens. The light only attaches by a single bolt that's shared with the top tab of the tail. It's wedged into place just like the stock MV Agusta unit and therfore requires that padding just like the MV or even the Ducati tails.


Alright, enough BS. Here are shots of the bike before I paint it.









 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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3,743 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Paint Choices:

SBKPaint is currently painting my race team bodywork for the new season so I've asked Tovar to do up my Vmax when I'm ready. He always does great work on my race bikes so it's a good fit.

Here's a couple shots of my team bodywork that we will be racing with for 2014




And my new SV race kit. RC51 Upper and Lower with an RS250GP tail







So he has a great Gunmetal Grey with a heavy flake that he's going to darken up to get it closer to black. We will be throwing this down on the tank/tail/fender. What do you guys think?

 

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Re: 2012 Vmax Fighter Project: "Cruise Missile" 187rwhp

That tail looks awesome. Just amazing. And with a dark gunmetal, will look totally ill. Real excited to see this painted up. Are you gonna put some mesh behind the vent holes? This would be one of those rare occasions that I would opt for some LED backlighting in there. Make that thing look like some evil alien spaceship from behind. Nice work!
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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3,743 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: 2012 Vmax Fighter Project: "Cruise Missile" 187rwhp

That tail looks awesome. Just amazing. And with a dark gunmetal, will look totally ill. Real excited to see this painted up. Are you gonna put some mesh behind the vent holes? This would be one of those rare occasions that I would opt for some LED backlighting in there. Make that thing look like some evil alien spaceship from behind. Nice work!


Actually I have signals that I haven't installed yet because they would be in the way for the painter. They have thin little "gills" that will accent the lighting.


Pics from the site:




Video of them working

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSYCtw_NQD8&feature=player_embedded
 

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Those are some badass signals
 

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Is my bike ok?
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Re: 2012 Vmax Fighter Project: "Cruise Missile" 187rwhp

I dig those signals, too. Very slick.

Cool project. I'll be watching for sure.

Side note : I was looking at your time slip and noticed your short time in the 1.60's. Is that pretty typical of a mid 6 second bike? I have no clue. It just seemed off to me since my old coupe used to trip the 60' beams around 1.30-1.35 depending on conditions. Sorry for the hijack. Anything drag racing related gets me all chatty :D
 

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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: 2012 Vmax Fighter Project: "Cruise Missile" 187rwhp

I dig those signals, too. Very slick.

Cool project. I'll be watching for sure.

Side note : I was looking at your time slip and noticed your short time in the 1.60's. Is that pretty typical of a mid 6 second bike? I have no clue. It just seemed off to me since my old coupe used to trip the 60' beams around 1.30-1.35 depending on conditions. Sorry for the hijack. Anything drag racing related gets me all chatty :D


That's me slipping and sliding down the track on the OEM tire. I'm usually spinning tire 1/4 the way down the track. But to put it into perspective with other stock bikes, the most common 60ft to see at that track is a 1.8-1.9 Slow 60ft. It's not too concerning though because at this track you are not allowed to run faster than 6.0 seconds or 115mph. They don't have a run off thats long enough to support slowing past those speeds.

The track I'm running at is not a legitimate race track. It's hosted in the parking lot of our football stadium. I am planning to run at Barona and I will throw a legitimate drag tire on the rear to give it a go.
 
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