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Trust me, they sound awesome. That's what freaks me out. I have too much shit to do already. Last thing I need is something else to distract me. In due time I'll get one.
 

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hooligan quads
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1,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
You read my mind with the mold for carbon statement! Is the stuff easy to sand to a glossy finish?

You're getting close to making me spend money I never planned to spend! I assume there is a "mirror" function in the CAD softwares. I like the idea of clicking a button and getting a mirror image. Hated that process for the tank and tail foam sculpting.
It's easier than it sounds, I promise. The way it usually works for people is assemble printer > calibrate printer > open Cura, select your printer, select the pre-set profile you want > print shit.

You tinker and learn as you go.


And the calibration process is pretty easy. You print an opject of known size (20mm cubes are common). Measure X. Cube measures 19.2mm, for example... find the % difference between 19.2 and 20.0, adjust the steps/mm in the firmware by that %, print again to confirm. Repeat for Y and Z. Extruder is the same, just with length... manually jog 100mm, measure what actually came out, adjust by that %.

For finding ideal temps for a roll of filament you print a "temp tower". It's a tower with marked sections, it automatically increases the nozzle temp by X° at each new section, you pick the best one and write the temp in sharpie on the side of that roll.

Don't be discouraged Mike. These are great tools to have.
saving going well to say i only desided this week...

i can get a Creality ender 3 pro for about £180. will this get me started ??
 

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Fuck it, let's do it live
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saving going well to say i only desided this week...

i can get a Creality ender 3 pro for about £180. will this get me started ??
Yep, and that's a good price too, I'd go for it.
 

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hooligan quads
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1,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Yep, and that's a good price too, I'd go for it.
if i visit some people who owe me i may have this in the next couple of weeks :party-smiley:
 

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hooligan quads
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1,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Yep, and that's a good price too, I'd go for it.
right i done it, got the money together.. now what filament is it worth me buying?? i dont want to just buy shit that im never going to uses?? nearly everything i will be doing will be for the bikes but i see my teenage daughter jumping on this new toy and using it for allsorts


ordering the 3 pro
 
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Fuck it, let's do it live
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PLA+/PLA Pro for most general bullshit. Avoid normal PLA. Get some PETG for anything functional. Also avoid ABS. Specialty applications call for specialty filaments... eg I used Taulman Alloy 910 for the coil bracket on the Hyper and haven't touched the roll since lol.

Brand/quality matters. Dunno what's available in the UK but google around and find what's recommended. I like eSun if you can get it there, I just order through Amazon.
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #27
will the 3 pro do Taulman Alloy ??
 

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Not in stock form... the hotend they come with (heated bit with the nozzle) has a length of PTFE tubing between the top where the Bowden tube (what the filament runs through) enters the heatsink and the heat block where it melts. That PTFE tube starts to break down and release toxic fumes at 240° (C, printing is always in C). Alloy 910 prints around 260°.
I could be wrong, but logically, you need a plastic that prints at a higher temp than it'll see during use if you're worried about heat tolerance... well really you need to research the specific polymer and find something called the "glass transition temperature" which is where it starts to go soft, but if it prints near the use temps it's probably not gonna work.

The solution you're looking for is called an "all metal hotend" which as you might guess doesn't have that PTFE tube.
I ordered one with my first printer and set it up from the start along with some other upgrades under the thought process of "I have to set it all up to begin with, may as well just do it the once."
The one I have is a Micro Swiss, it was THE one to have at the time but there are a handful of other options out there and some may very well be better... I haven't looked into them since.

You very well may never print anything hot enough to need this particular upgrade. It's something to ponder on, think about your use cases and if you can justify it.

And for the record, shit's easy to play around with, so it's no big deal to use as is for now and upgrade down the road if you find yourself needing it. My thought process was... not wrong, but unnecessary.
 

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Fuck it, let's do it live
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@titan you'll want these...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gwisdom-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B07FKD4FZD

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sovol-Genuine-Capricorn-Straight-Pneumatic/dp/B07QRN74Z8

Also print a fan protector (electronics box), as well as a new hotend fan shroud (the Hero Me is a good one), as some of your first upgrades once you get it dialed in. I'd give you links but thingiverse is down at the moment (get used to that).

The printer will arrive having a few pre-assembled sections for you to stick together. It's worthwhile to loosen all of the fasteners even on the pre-assembled bits and properly square everything up... and while you're at it, throw some threadlocker on all of the bolts.

Download Cura:
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Download Fusion 360:
https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists#get-started
(I don't recall the steps but they will ask if you are a hobbyist or a business and you'll get the full version for free if you tell them you're a hobbyist).

Also download Pronterface:
https://www.pronterface.com/
(Been a minute but IIRC you may need to compile the actual software from the source code yourself. Hit me up if you don't know how to do this, but it's easier than it sounds).

Also get yourself a card reader as the one that came with my E3 crapped out after 6 months or so...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beikell-High-speed-Adapter-Supports-MMC-Compatible-Windows/dp/B07L9VT8YY



Feel free to reach out if you have any questions as you work your way through all this. Once your printer arrives your order of operations should be:

1. Unbox and assemble, making everything as square as possible. Out-of-square machine will give you out-of-square prints.

2. Install/setup Cura, install/setup Pronterface.

3. Run PID autotune and save numbers to EEPROM using M codes sent through Pronterface. Ask if you have trouble.

4. Load filament, remove Bowden tube at extruder. Clip filament at end of the Bowden fitting. Jog extruder 100mm, measure what actually came out, adjust E steps/mm using M codes sent through Pronterface. Repeat to confirm calibration. Ask if you have trouble.

5. Download 20mm calibration cube from thingiverse. Open it in Cura, make sure you have Ender 3 machine profile selected, pick a 0,2mm or therabouts print resolution from the pre-set print profiles. Set parameters for 2x walls and floors, and something like 10% infill. Print.

6. Measure cube in all axis, calibrate XYZ steps/mm using M codes sent through Pronterface. Repeat to confirm calibration. Ask if you have trouble.

Happy printing!

PS Cura and Pronterface both try to use the same COM port so will throw a fit if you try to have them open at the same time.
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #30
thanks Mcanter that is awesome should be enough to keep me busy for a few weeks!!
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #31

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dont suppose you have a realaible work around for cura on windows 10?? it wont launch, read a few post and nothing seems to work
Try downloading an older version. I haven't updated to the latest one so I don't know what issues there may be, but I've never had an issue launching it.

Stupid question but you're sure you downloaded the windows version and not one for mac/linux/whatever?
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #33
Yep

Sorted it. For the nature of completeness of a thread, there can be some compatibility issues (not all computer have this issue but a small amount do) with Cura and windows 10, so if your installing it and find it won't launch instead of spending 4 hour down, installing, uninstalling, searching online (till 3am) repeat.....

Just right click the program in the start up menu, on the left, select "open file location". find Cura Right click and select properties. then select the "compatibility" tab and under "compatibility mode" run as window 8. Should work fine.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

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Fuck it, let's do it live
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Out of curiosity what version of W10 are you running? If it's K/N/KN then that would make sense.
 

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hooligan quads
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1,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
No idea, but I did find information that it could be the fact it's a Dell not so much windows??


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hooligan quads
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1,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Well here we go

Cheers for all the advice. Gonna spend the weekend printing penises for everyone, then I'll start putting it to use properly


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Fuck it, let's do it live
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Quick and easy upgrade to add to your list. Tap the hole in the middle of the Y axis extrusion bar for M6, drill a hole in the pulley bracket, and run a long bolt through it with two nuts (locked against each other) on the inside of the bracket. Bam, you've got a screw tensioner.

People print em usually, and you should print one for your X belt, but that's the quickest and easiest way to do it for Y.
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #40
I will get on that

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