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can you change color in between ... rows, i guess? As in, on your clock, adding the numbers in a different color like white on the blue. I guess a better way to put it would be; how does color transition during a print work on these things?
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #62
can you change color in between ... rows, i guess? As in, on your clock, adding the numbers in a different color like white on the blue. I guess a better way to put it would be; how does color transition during a print work on these things?
yeh thats what i did, i changed the filament at a certain point (80% complete in this case). i did it manually by just watching it but i believe there is a way to put a pause in the profile so it will stop the print.

what i did is watch it do the last of the infil ( i set a top level iron so it was easy to see), then let it do two runs around the raise bits to make sure ( so about 0.4mm), then i hit a setting called filament change this pauses the print and it un feeds the filament assist you refeeding the new and then once its all heated back up it carries on where it left off, so the blue and black is a single solid plastic piece.

this is achievable with any colours as long as the filament is the same. you can ( on some printers not sure if you can on the ender 3) set them up with a twin extruder so you just programe it in the slicer to do it automatically. this would allow you to use two types of filament. advantages to this would be printing a heat sheild out of PLA (Cheap) with a internal print of ASA, or supports out of a desolverble filament to make removal easier etc.

my mate is doing this to one of his printers now (CR10 which is a more upclassed version of the ender by the same company) so i will watch and see.


i now have a glass bead so now going through a recalibration when i get home
 
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Breaking shit...
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yeh thats what i did, i changed the filament at a certain point (80% complete in this case). i did it manually by just watching it but i believe there is a way to put a pause in the profile so it will stop the print.

what i did is watch it do the last of the infil ( i set a top level iron so it was easy to see), then let it do two runs around the raise bits to make sure ( so about 0.4mm), then i hit a setting called filament change this pauses the print and it un feeds the filament assist you refeeding the new and then once its all heated back up it carries on where it left off, so the blue and black is a single solid plastic piece.

this is achievable with any colours as long as the filament is the same. you can ( on some printers not sure if you can on the ender 3) set them up with a twin extruder so you just programe it in the slicer to do it automatically. this would allow you to use two types of filament. advantages to this would be printing a heat sheild out of PLA (Cheap) with a internal print of ASA, or supports out of a desolverble filament to make removal easier etc.

my mate is doing this to one of his printers now (CR10 which is a more upclassed version of the ender by the same company) so i will watch and see.


i now have a glass bead so now going through a recalibration when i get home

thats exactly what I was curious about. My kid is really interested in making stuff and Ive been eyeing these things forever. now that there are affordable ones out it looks like ill be getting one when the tax return gives me a few extra spending dollars!
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #65
thats exactly what I was curious about. My kid is really interested in making stuff and Ive been eyeing these things forever. now that there are affordable ones out it looks like ill be getting one when the tax return gives me a few extra spending dollars!
There is loads out there that are "out of the box ready" but the Ender's seems to be the one top of its game for under $/£200

As it was said before it's got a huge network to get quick answers and parts/ mods are easy to get if needed or seems to be that way.

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #66

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Breaking shit...
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looking at the ender 5 plus. big bed means I could print the star wars helmets I cant afford to buy!
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #68
my next one will be either the 5 plus of cr10 max but my 3 is going inside a box soon so i can do ASA, PLA etc
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #71
Next one? Already!?
Probably not right now but yeh I can see the utility in more than one.

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #72
Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day. Give him a 3d printer... eh nevermind
He will fill his house with corn based plastic in the shape of things he didn't even know he needed??

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For the record, my fighter'd 5 has a custom board running my own custom firmware in an electronics enclosure I made, with a top-of-the-line metal hotend and upgraded fans and everything else, which makes it capable of running almost 2x faster than standard and nearly dead silent (these things are loud), AND I have all the materials ready to upgrade it to increase the build plate size by ~30% while streamlining the positioning of everything.... and I'm still into this thing for less than half of what that Prusa costs.

What questions have ya got?
ok. Ive got my eye on an ender 5 plus. https://www.creality3d.shop/collect...MIgaK_yM6B6AIV4pJbCh2kJAt4EAkYASABEgLu-_D_BwE
or
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.c...MIgaK_yM6B6AIV4pJbCh2kJAt4EAkYAyABEgILmvD_BwE

its got the bigger bed, upgraded extruder and auto leveling. but its over 570 from creality direct and around 550-ish elsewhere. with your experience and considering the upgrades youve done to yours, do you think the 300x300x450 work area and other upgrades are worth the extra price over modding a 5 pro?


EDIT: creality is running a sale and a discount that bring the price down to 559 if that makes any difference.
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #75
ok. Ive got my eye on an ender 5 plus. https://www.creality3d.shop/collect...MIgaK_yM6B6AIV4pJbCh2kJAt4EAkYASABEgLu-_D_BwE
or
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.c...MIgaK_yM6B6AIV4pJbCh2kJAt4EAkYAyABEgILmvD_BwE

its got the bigger bed, upgraded extruder and auto leveling. but its over 570 from creality direct and around 550-ish elsewhere. with your experience and considering the upgrades youve done to yours, do you think the 300x300x450 work area and other upgrades are worth the extra price over modding a 5 pro?


EDIT: creality is running a sale and a discount that bring the price down to 559 if that makes any difference.
Think the biggest thing to get your head around is they are all the same save a few bits, so all use the same hotend, all the drives/motors are the same the boards are all the same. Do with that in mind and the fact that you already have the ability to build shit. You can pretty much mod these things to what ever you want. Check out creality XL (I think) on FB they are making printer that are huge out of 3 and 3 plus etc

And not forgetting this guy

https://youtu.be/albFKmWW4nA

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well... bit the bullet and have an ender 5 pro coming. little smaller than the plus but ill upgrade the chassis later.
 

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Is my bike ok?
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New to this thread and just read through it all. Curious after reading about the modifications and upgrades done to the printer that Mcantar and Titan have been talking about...does the Prusa need the same things done to it?

This is something I've had my eye on for a while ( not the Prusa specifically) and I'm just curious if the additional expense maybe does buy you something after all.
 

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Is my bike ok?
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One thing on my mind is old bikes with rotten cam chain adjuster shoes. Sometimes they are very expressive or NLA. A brand new NOS 40yr adjuster is still old ass plastic. Is there plastic available to make these shoes, and how would a dummy like me go about doing it? Would you need to scan it in, or is there a way to measure manually and import the data.
 

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what are the sliders made of? the ender will run PLA, ABS, PETG and TPU (still reading up on the differences between the medias). saw some stuff about how you can do other filament types with upgraded hot ends and all metal extruders but Im still reading up on all that.
 

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hooligan quads
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Discussion Starter #80
New to this thread and just read through it all. Curious after reading about the modifications and upgrades done to the printer that Mcantar and Titan have been talking about...does the Prusa need the same things done to it?



This is something I've had my eye on for a while ( not the Prusa specifically) and I'm just curious if the additional expense maybe does buy you something after all.
First question, the mods made are more out of preference than need. You know like the stock exhaust works but it's not as good as.... So from that respect I think they all can benefit from mods. The Ender's have it on out the box reader I think and overal price I paid £200 for mine

With a few minor upgrades you can print ABS, ASA, PETG and a few other of the more robust plastic. I suppose the way to look at it once you have the file and a printer if they only last a year you will never run out

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