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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this is my new project, a 1990 GSXR 750L frame bought sight unseen with a bunch of other parts: loom, shock, ignition barrel and some switch gear.

The welding on the tabs at the back is 10/10 for effort, but was quickly ground off.

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I originally bought a oil boiler 750 engine (long stroke) from Eblag, but have now picked up an 1127 engine

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Plan is to clean the frame some more then 3D scan it and make up a subframe in CAD; I’ll be doing some rough FEA after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Last bit I have recently scanned is the frame, which honestly… I ran out of time scanning on a Friday night after work.

it’s four scans that I had to manually align in meshlab & blender. Reason for this is simple, I am a cheap bastard and was reusing the scanner targets for different parts of the frame. They also kept falling off!

It’s not a nice water tight mesh but, I’ll keep working on it. All the important bits are there.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have also done two rough scans of the GSX-R K3/4 hanger (pink), aligned them in blender and then reverse engineered them in fusion and exported as a .STEP file.

Once the wheel and sprocket carrier are scanned - and the faces adjusted - I should be able to centre the wheel and start checking for calliper and disc mounting issues. I'm doing most of the assembly in Rhino3D at the moment but may move into Cinema4D further down the line.



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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Little bit more scanning at home on the front sprocket cover. I used dry shampoo to matt the surface and make it easier to scan.

I got most of the data I wanted but the CAD was messy with a load of random artefacts. Main cause of the issue was the software and it's overly simple interface. The scanner I have used is a cheap Revopoint 2 3d scanner, same one I used for the sprocket carrier and calliper hanger.

The final model was five scans when really it shouldn't have needed anymore than two scans on a professional level scanner.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Little update on the project:

  • ZZR 1400 rear wheel (to match the front) has now been scanned and reverse engineered in Rhino, F360 and a bit of Cinema4D. This should help me with the sprocket alignment and some visualisation work further down the line. Here's some photos, as that's what we're here for:
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I also bought a 1990 slingshot swingarm and rear wheel from Bristol; and collected them on the trusty little SV, got soaked on the way back. I won’t be using these as they are a present and for a separate project (not mine). Although, currently borrowing them both while working out the k4 1000 linkage kinematics.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In terms of physical work on the bike, the ZZR1400 bottom yoke came modified with a 1000 k3/4 stem, which saved me a job.

I have now measured, bought and fitted a new top race & bearing. The ZZR stem would never have worked with the larger diameter. This now means I can finally make a roller!

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also scanned the tank with the aid of some markers and dry shampoo.

It was a bit of an arse to scan due to the size and lack of features, but I got it in the end. From memory it was five or so scans joined together - in blender - using this ICP plugin (Icp (Iterative Closest Point) Registration / Alignment) which I highly recommend. Loads of really good info from YouTube and the dental community on using it effectively.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also, here's a few fancy shots of the roller as it sits, couple of points about it:
  • Finally got rid of the manky orange sparkly front wheel
  • Started measuring the range of motion in the rear swingarm
  • Rough position of the steering stops measured
  • Top yoke and speedo design is well underway, thinking one big round tach with a digital speed readout. Something like the Daytona Velona 80
  • Colour scheme will likely be black and grey with some gold touches, but none of that anodised stuff.

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For anyone into the camera stuff, here's the details:
  • Sony a7rii
  • 85mm 1.8 lens @ f1.8 - f4 depending on the shot
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  • Cinematic film colour gradient in lightroom
  • Gentle 'S' curve
  • +10 on on the dehaze
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some small bits cleaned up.

New pinch bolts as the originals were missing on the forks when I got them.

ZZR clip ons installed, although still not sold on them. Will have to wait & see. Not immediately liking the angle.
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Little update:
Mocked up the K3/4 swinger, but I'm still fettling with the bushes and centre spacer.

Currently using the original bushes from the k3/4 swingarm and 750l axle. I'm sleeving the k3/4 bushes with the 750l originals. Fun fact, the SV650 gen 1 bushes I was hoping to use have the same ID & OD, but are slightly too long. Easy mod though, and very cheap to get hold of.

The centre spacer from the 750l is a bit more of an arse, it needs either turning down by a 2mm or swapping out as it's OD means it won't fit inside the k3 swinger spacer. So I have got a short bit of 25mm seamless 316l on the way to try. If anyone knows what the tolerance should be on the spacer to the axle that would be great?! My 750l spacer was .8mm over the OD of the axle which seemed a little excessive. Can't help thinking it might be worn past tolerance. Obviously I don't want it to be interference fit, but I assumed it would be a transition fit over a clearance fit.


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Hi there, is there anything running on the outside of the spacer? I'm assuming its clamped up between the bearings when assembled, so there shouldn't be any relative movement to create wear? If not 0.8 clearance is probably as inteneded. If it was a transituon fit you could end up in a situatuon where the spacer binds during asembly and it'd be a bastard to get the pivot in or out, and when tightening the clamp force would need to overcome friction between pivot and spacer before clamping the bearings. I'd be tempted to find a friendly machine shop to wiz 2mm off the OE spacer, you'll need to machine the tube square anyway, otherwise you'll be clamping the pivot bearings unevenly as tube will likely be chop saw or band saw cut and that wont be particularly flat or square.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi there, is there anything running on the outside of the spacer? I'm assuming its clamped up between the bearings when assembled, so there shouldn't be any relative movement to create wear? If not 0.8 clearance is probably as inteneded. If it was a transituon fit you could end up in a situatuon where the spacer binds during asembly and it'd be a bastard to get the pivot in or out, and when tightening the clamp force would need to overcome friction between pivot and spacer before clamping the bearings. I'd be tempted to find a friendly machine shop to wiz 2mm off the OE spacer, you'll need to machine the tube square anyway, otherwise you'll be clamping the pivot bearings unevenly as tube will likely be chop saw or band saw cut and that wont be particularly flat or square.
Thanks for such a quick reply!

Nothing on the outside of the spacer originally; thrust washer on the outside of the roller bearing and bush on the chain side (that will be going back in). Spacer binding is a worry but, the .8 just seemed off. I expected .2 to .4. The ends will definitely be going in a lathe for parting off.

Can't seem find a machine shop near me in Kent and I no longer have access to a metal workshop after changing jobs. Defiantly should be a quick job.
 
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