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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so I'm surfin the web and come across a streetfighter and instantly developed an itch to build one. I raced motorcross when I was in my teens so I already have a love for bikes just never owned a rice rocket (street bike) crotch rocket etc. I dont have alot of money to dump so I will try to keep this on a budget. I found a 87 CBR 600 with 10k on the odometer and it runs great nothing wrong with it. Even looks pretty good so it's gonna be a shame to cut it up, but it was fairly cheap at $900.00. Here is what it looks like.
BTW all the parts I'm removing are for sale.....lol



Love to hear any suggestions and input along the way. It's great to be apart of the forum!
 

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The Hooligan
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352 Posts
Welcom to CF!

Thanks looks like a good bike to start with. I managed to sell my fairings for enough to fund the first part of my build which was nice. Early CBR's are pretty easy to work with, steel frame so getting stuff welded up is easy and it's pretty easy to adapt the late model stuff to these bikes, tails, fork and whatnot.
 

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Just a Squirrel
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185 Posts
hey welcome. i have the same model. mine is a 90, but its rsal easy to do alot with these... and alot of hondas at that. honda kept the same steering stem for about all the cbr's. so doing a swap to a newer front end is very easy. the rear end on our f1's not so easy. the swingarm and rim we got wont accept more than a 150. and from what ive read... on many a fourms its not wise to go much bigger than that. but there is alot to do. although there is a mod i should tell you now. with removing the fairings it causes the bike to run really funny at highway speeds. kinda bogs and mine would even die if i pulled in the clutch and ket the rpms drop to idle. so i will find the thread the explains it all and post you a link. i did it and mine bike runs soooooo much smoother at 55+. but again welcome and DW( do work)

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Just a Squirrel
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185 Posts
The main cause of issues when the fairings are removed is the float chambers seeing a slightly lower pressure than the airbox sees when moving at speeds above 45mph or so.
The ZX series of Kawasaki sportsbikes suffer from this problem very acutely.
What you really need to do rather than restricting the amount of air entering the airbox, is to enable the float chamers to see the same pressure reference as the airbox.
The easiest way to accomplish this is to find the two Tee pieces between carbs 1&2 and carbs 3&4 which are the float chamber vents, on some banks of carbs on the Hondas it is one large Tee piece between the 2&3 carbs as all 4 carbs are linked across the top.
Once you have determined the float chamber vents, attatch a short length of rubber hose to the Tee piece, and then run it into the airbox through a hole drilled in the underside just large enough to pass the hose through tightly.
Face the open end of the hose towards the front of the bike under the airfilter, if needs be slash cut the hose at 45 degrees and face the cut upwards and forwards.
By doing this the float chamber vent will be fed by the air entering the airbox which then ensures that the pressure in the float chambers is equalised with the airbox pressure, once this is achieved the air passing through the venturi will suffer a slight pressure drop, as this happens the air pressure in the float chamber becomes slightly higher than that in the venturi directly above the needle jet/jet needle, and this higher pressure in the bowl then forces the fuel up the needle jet/emulsion tube and introduces it to the airflow through the venturi where it is then atomised and carried into the cylinder.
I've had to sort out quite a few "Ramair" issues on sportsbikes that have had the fairings removed over the years, in the past the issues have been difficult to detect as they don't generally manifest when I have the bikes on my dyno, although I now have a dedicated ducted fan which I use to blow air into the airbox intakes in an effort to replicate the problem as it occurs on the road rather than me going out and testing the bike on the road myself which isn't always a practicable option when it is pissing down with rain, or during the summer when the local roads are crowded with tourists heading towards the coast.

so this is the write up Mustapha dump did for the "ram air issues on the f1" the things this guy writes about a motorcycle is dead on, at least from what ive read and done.

wow so i followed what Mustapha dump had to say here. there is a tee line but all four are connected to one t-line between 2&3. at least thats how my 90 F1 is set up. went and got my hands dirty.... :vshock:what a difference.


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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys.


I agree on all points made about the bike chassis after having a good lookin over. I got it home washed it up and pulled the lower fairings off to get a better look and she looks good and clean. I'm happy with the purchase. I read about the RamAir effect on these you mentioned also. I saw that post too thank you for putting it here so I dont have to try and find it again. I'll give it a try.



I wanted a base line feel of the bike before i tore it down so I took her for a spin up rt 1 past Big Sir. Awesome ride btw. The brakes didnt feel that great and the back tire has alot to be desired. It's a 130. My local dealer suggested a 140. I'd like to go 150 if i can and it doesnt effect turning? The one on it def looks skinny thou. I also noticed the back of the bike comes up rather easy up over hills and such. Like the shock only works in one direction I guess.



I also would like to mention that I'll be tryin to keep it ridable during its transition when i can as I wont have all the money to finish in one shot. I'm gonna try to recycle parts also. So I ordered up blinkers, license plate lights and bar mirrors. Changed the oil and filter. Research dirt bike bars while I wait and get some headlights.
 

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Just a Squirrel
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185 Posts
with the oil cooler down by the radiator were yours is, it will hit. i have mine there as well mine is probably a little tighter to the radiator, and mine hit the front fender. so i bent the bracket i made in a little and i havent seen any more issues, or paint missing from the fender. also my cooler is the other way around from yours. im about to cut down the extra hose so its a cleaner fit.
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
IF you can find one, you should be able to fit the whole rear end from a CBR400 either nc23 or nc29 model. The bottom ends of the 400 and early 600 engines are the same, so the arm will fit between the rails and the sprockets will line up if you get the 400 wheel too (no promises otherwise). The nc23 wheel is 3 spoke and takes a 150/18 as standard, the nc29 wheel is six spoke (depends what front you're going with) and takes a 150/17, but easily goes out to 160/17 with sufficient chain clearance.

The arms are both massive cast aluminium items, the nc23 is symmetrical, the nc29 is gullarm which opens up stubby exhaust options (in pairing with higher footpegs). No promises on either linkage fitting, but they look pretty similar.

Maybe worth considering, although I know 400 JDM parts are rare in the US.

Here's my CB-1 with nc29 swingarm. Also 97 900RR forks, might be a good option for you too as they're very good, will be sprung about right, take great brakes and can be picked up for a song.



Enjoy your bike, keep D'ingW and updating!
 

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wet BeHind eArs
Joined
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input. I thought the cooler might hit. I'm gonna try to make it tighter.

Hey thanks for all the fork and swingarm info too. Not sure if I'm ready for that yet but It will def. go in my notes.

As of now I'm lookin for the fastest tire I can fit without effecting corning on the stock wheel. I saw someone mention 150, but my dealer suggested 140. Anyone have personal experience?

BTW I decided this will be the "Street Rat" Project. I like streetfighter style and have a passion for rat rods,,,,,sooo "Street Rat" Cars that looks rough but its the flavor. Like this perfect example.

 

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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was removing the charcoal canister today and one of the lines goes up to what appears to be vacum to the engine. Some valve before the pcv valve. I'm thinkin this line sucks vapor from the canister although I felt no vacum at the line with the engine running. I tried pluggin the line and putting this filter one it and saw no difference. The filter looks cool sittin down there but not sure if i should plug it instead. Any thoughts?

 

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Just a Squirrel
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185 Posts
http://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-15/biggest-tire-87-cane-600-a-88830/

check out this site for the rear tire size on you F1. im going to a 140, or 150. havent decided. i read that running anything bigger than the 110 up front will cause the bike to handle funny. as the tire with be squeezed to the point that it will cause problems.... at least thats what i read. truth behind the front is something i havent spent to much time loolking in too. but for the back the cbrfourm is a good place to look around. i dont like the fourm as much as CF. its alot differnt in the way its set up and i think its harder to navigate.
 

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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
http://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-15/biggest-tire-87-cane-600-a-88830/

check out this site for the rear tire size on you F1. im going to a 140, or 150. havent decided. i read that running anything bigger than the 110 up front will cause the bike to handle funny. as the tire with be squeezed to the point that it will cause problems.... at least thats what i read. truth behind the front is something i havent spent to much time loolking in too. but for the back the cbrfourm is a good place to look around. i dont like the fourm as much as CF. its alot differnt in the way its set up and i think its harder to navigate.
Ya this site is much better. I'm thinkin the 150 to be safe. I currently have a 130/90 and a 110/80
 

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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
big bob you should post some pics of that swap

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yaya man. post em here so all my info is in one spot....lol

I relocated the rear tail light today... looks good to me man and i like free .99....

 

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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I couldnt stop cuttin and trimmin today. I changed the angle of the stock exhaust for now until i decide what will replace it. Its coupled with the 2.99 license plate holder from ace hardware. I also made an aluminum plate to cover the relay and starter sel. plus relocated the brake res under the new plate too. I trim some of the rear frame off that I know I wont use.....lookin like a rat...

 

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Quackenbush Qustom
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586 Posts
I like. I got a 93f2 I'm building into a stunt bike don't know how similar the rears are but mine came with a 150 on it and it performs Pretty well. Good stuff with the build.
 

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wet BeHind eArs
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like. I got a 93f2 I'm building into a stunt bike don't know how similar the rears are but mine came with a 150 on it and it performs Pretty well. Good stuff with the build.
I'm def gonna look into the 150. Thanks for the props. Unfortunatly I need to keep my bike drivable so I can go to work and make money so i can put it into my bike so i can make it to work everyday so i can put money into my bike and so on and so on. I drove with no headlight yesterday just waitin for a cop to pull me over but the honda gods where watching over me i guess.
I'm thinkin a round headlight from a Honda rebel or something and a dark tall boy windscreen. But I need to get my dirtbike bars on it first. So here I go down to the auto parts store to find some temporary headlight to go to work.
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
Standard specs are:

Front tyre dimensions: 110/80-17
Rear tyre dimensions: 130/80-17

This tells me the rear is a (tiny) 3 inch wide. A 140 or 150 are typically recommended for a 3.5" rim. May not be much very difference but it will pinch the tyre up. It'll tip in quick but lose stability and your tyre centres will wear out too fast if you do any highway riding.

The front is probably a 2.5" rim, so a 120 would also be pretty stretched. Even a 110/70 won't work right, I tried 110/80 > 110/70 on an XJ600S because it was what the shop had and it didn't steer right after that.

If you want modern tyre sizes, fit modern rims.

I hate to say it, but starting with an '87 bike was maybe a wrong call. If you'd started with an f2 or f3 you'd have a much easier job on your hands.
 
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