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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll put this bike up on the board to keep track of its progress. My buddy bought this bike to get back into riding after he sold his 13 ZX6R. Right now I'm helping build it to a point where it can pass a state inspection, and of course I'm going to need your guys help on this one. Lots of stuff aren't right with this bike :LolLolLolLol:

It's a 1989 CBR 600 Hurricane with about 23k on it. The PO said that he unplugged the clocks around 20k so that's all estimated. In that time he built a pretty bad ass little bike. Bolted on an 04 GSXR 600 front end, fitted 600RR tank panels and seat, and fitted a Harley tail fairing.




That's pretty much all that's good on it lol. He absolutely butchered the wiring harness. Wads of wires in the front, disconnected connectors, and wires cut everywhere. It's a mess.

On another note my buddy said that he'll be happy of he gets a season out of it and then he'll most likely put it back up on CL. The more I look at it the more I get that itch to modify it. It's his now, but if he wants to get rid of it I might it take off his hands.
 

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CAPTAIN AWESOME®
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30,279 Posts
That thing is pretty badass looking. Good score aesthetically, but sounds like you've got some mechanical shit to deal with
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bike is at my place so I have access to it. My buddy is going to buy the stuff needed to fix her up. Today I'm going to get the taillight secured to the bike and make a license plate bracket. An OEM harness and manual were purchased so those are on the way. The taillight has been semi secured and actually lines up real well in the fairing:


Now for the problems. We were out on a group ride Sunday with some friends and out riding for about 5 hours and all of a sudden the CBR just dies. Got it to a lot and chilled there while some help. A volt meter was hooked up the battery and the battery read 27 volts when it was off!

Never seen that before in my life. Not sure what it was when idling because it was able to be started after we replaced a 10A fuse in the fuse box (I put required fuses in there srespective spots). The PO had 30A and 25A fuses in some spots including a 30A in the circuit where the 10A fuse blew. My question is why would there be so much power going through the system? My bike has some mods to the wiring maybe not as much as this one, but it runs fine on the required fuses that it needs. Here are some pics of what I'm looking at:

The newer ignition:






Half of the airbox is missing so that can't be good for when debris gets up there and under the tank. Would go straight into the carbs.

A coolant reservoir is a must because the Bradley bullet shell that was being used is not holding up. Might throw my old 02 reservoir in there and see if it fits anywhere:
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That thing is pretty badass looking. Good score aesthetically, but sounds like you've got some mechanical shit to deal with
Yeah lots of electrical and some cleaning up to do. He says it runs great engine wise. I've ridden it once and it's good. New chain is definitely needed too. I'm going to write a list of what's needed later tonight
 

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Is my bike ok?
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15,025 Posts
I really dig that bike. I wouldn't blame you one bit for buying it off your buddy....after he finances all the repairs ;)

As far as being over voltage, I'd say it's safe to say the voltage regulator is no longer regulating. The stator is obviously very healthy, though!

The regulator/rectifier might be kaput, or it may just need to be wired properly. It's charging, so the stator is being activated, but it's running unregulated. Hope you find an easy fix. Some r&r's have a separate wire that runs straight to the positive terminal of the battery. It's a voltage sensing terminal that allows the regulator portion know when to turn the charging system on and off. It could be something simple as that wire being disconnected.

Don't let your buddy push his luck with this one. Overheated batteries blowing up betwixt your legs can't be much fun. Acid burns on the cajones... :(
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
^What that guy said - the regulator isn't. Find where it's been hidden, I bet it won't be mounted properly. If it's still the original one without cooling fins it needs to be bolted to a solid piece of metal without paint - on the stock subframe there is an aluminium bracket for this - so that the heat can sink away from the regulator. If it doesn't have this it will overheat and melt the diodes, and the magic electrical smoke will all escape your bike.

Even if you get an upgraded/later model regulator with fins on it still needs to be mounted in a similar way or again, it won't last long.

Hondas of this era are notorious for chewing up regulators, usually because they overheat and melt the 5-pin plug into the regulator, but also the 3-pin plug to the alternator gets dirty and corroded. Either or both plugs being corroded or dirty will cause a recurring problem which you'll otherwise struggle to diagnose. You also need good earthing throughout the bike which I doubt this one is going to have. Best option is to take the green wire from the regulator and run it direct to the battery rather than back up through the harness, various joining crimps, and finally to the frame, which in turn has to conduct to the engine and up through the main earth wire to the battery.

Don't ride the bike if it's charging at over 15 volts! It'll fry, in no particular order: battery, CDI, every bulb on the bike, regulator if not already dead, alternator, various plugs on the charging system... anything electrical on the bike, really.

edit: got caught up on the problems and forgot to mention - that bike looks really cool :)
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks fellas I'll be looking at the regulator later today and try to see what condition it is in. It's located on a frame rail right above the transmission so I'm guessing it gets a lot of heat. My buddy is probably going to come over today and he's got a lot of ideas brewing regarding the suspension setup, levers, color, and the wheels.

I'm thinking we've got another fighterer in the making :LolLolLolLol:

Haven't done much to it lately cause I've been working on my bike lately (have an update coming on that) but I did find a solution to the coolant overflow. Dug out the old resi from my build and stuck it in the tail


It's a tight fit, but it works for now and the hose runs all the way to the overflow hole on the rad so I think we're good and the fairing fits over it. Hoping the wire harness comes in by the weekend so this can be solved.

More to come soon
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
Here's a fun idea that I've done on a couple of period Hondas.



Ingredients: 40mm chipset fan, aftermarket or later Honda regulator with fins, ring connector and sundries. Take a feed from any switched live such as rear brake switch feed, and Earth on the regulator mounting bolt. m4 socket screws self tapped into three different regulators so I guess the fins are like 3mm apart as standard. Did need to slightly open up the holes in the fan corners, be careful with that.

You can also add some CPU cooling paste behind the regulator.

Still needs a decent flat mounting behind it but this can help a lot.
Idea from here: https://www.google.com/search?q=vfr regulator fan tmeperature&gws_rd=ssl

How-to shows the guy got his vfr750 regulator down from 70 to 45 degrees C by doing similar.

I've also done one on a non fin regulator by using silicon sealant to glue a small heat sink on, then put a fan on that. May have pics somewhere but that was years ago.

Parts for this are pennies on eBay. Search '40mm chipset fan 12v'
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Holy shit that's trick morti. Just to be sure did drill and tap the regulator itself to get the fan to bolt on there or did you do something else? I'll be out later today looking and the bike to see where else a rectifier could be bolted on.

So it looks like the shopping list is going to include a rectifier. Going to run that by him tonight when we're working on it.
 

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Premium Member
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Nope, the stainless m4 cap screws self tapped into the soft alloy casting. Can't remember the size but maybe this helps.



Edit: they were leftovers from carb rebuilding. So I guess m4x12. Might be easier with longer m4 button screws as modifying the corners for the screw heads was pretty hairy.
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome that really helps a lot. I'm pretty sure that mod will be going on the bike.

I'm a noob when it comes to electrical stuff so my judgement may be misplaced, but I think it's safe to say that isn't how connectors are supposed to look:


The rectifier looks good exterior wise but the connectors do not look good

 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
You're right - that 3 pin plug does not look good at all! That's the plug for the alternator into the regulator and the service limit is usually about 100% less burnt than yours is.

You need to replace that plug, or solder it. I have in mind that they're 1/4" terminals but the next size up would be more appropriate. Not easy to find standard locking type connectors that size, but h4 headlight connectors use a bigger terminal, or maybe just get some single spade terminals and bundle them up- depends what type of job you're after doing.

The way that has melted points to a bad earth. Your regulator is an upgraded later one off (maybe) a vfr800. Looks like one as dad morti has a vfr and I've had a look through it. Iirc (check me) the two positive and two earth leads have the same function and are only duplicated to lighten the load on the connectors. Not sure how much testing you can do on a regulator but if it's giving 25v id say you need a new one. That type is certainly better than stock but treat it rough and it'll still Melt.

You should also get a decent multimeter and test the alternator. It's too long since I've done this but your bikes manual will give the correct values. When the plug is that bad it can cause a melted winding.

I would take the red through a 30A online fuse to the battery live and the green direct to the battery earth. And don't forget it must be mounted to a decent block of metal to sink heat and properly earth the body.

Not sure I like that main earth being bolted where it has been neither. Get it bolted down to some bare metal or direct back to the battery.
 

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Premium Member
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50,498 Posts
Here's a fun idea that I've done on a couple of period Hondas.



Ingredients: 40mm chipset fan, aftermarket or later Honda regulator with fins, ring connector and sundries. Take a feed from any switched live such as rear brake switch feed, and Earth on the regulator mounting bolt. m4 socket screws self tapped into three different regulators so I guess the fins are like 3mm apart as standard. Did need to slightly open up the holes in the fan corners, be careful with that.

You can also add some CPU cooling paste behind the regulator.

Still needs a decent flat mounting behind it but this can help a lot.
Idea from here: https://www.google.com/search?q=vfr regulator fan tmeperature&gws_rd=ssl

How-to shows the guy got his vfr750 regulator down from 70 to 45 degrees C by doing similar.

I've also done one on a non fin regulator by using silicon sealant to glue a small heat sink on, then put a fan on that. May have pics somewhere but that was years ago.

Parts for this are pennies on eBay. Search '40mm chipset fan 12v'
these kinda electrical tutorials are sooooo helpful :D awesome stuf as well Pred '
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
these kinda electrical tutorials are sooooo helpful :D awesome stuf as well Pred '
Thanks Robbo! :rock: Reppin you morti it would've taken me or my buddy much longer to figure out this problem and how to diagnose it, and find a solution to it as well if I didn't get help from you and everyone else.

He ordered another rectifier from a 89 CBR. I'm sure the one that's in the garage is an 89 as well cause the 1 he just bought has the same part # or whatever is engraved on the regulator.

More to come on Sunday when we get the harness in.
 

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my cbr reg/rec doesnt even have cooling fins on it! This is why I bolted it to a metal undertray to try to dissipate the heat that way as well as giving it a strong ground! 90s Hondas are famous for reg/rec failures and chocolate cams!
 

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Member
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90s Hondas are famous for reg/rec failures and chocolate cams!
I thought the cam issues were all sorted by cbr times, just reg/recs and cct's
 

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Only issues I've heard of with f2s on is reg/rec and cct. Not sure about prevuous years. If it's not done already Def recommend a manual cct.
Not sure what reg/rec is on mine.... think it came off a gsxr, can't remember
 

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ZX-6R Fighterer
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457 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hmm an srad R/R fits on these? I'll have to look into this if I end up with this bike lol. Haven't done much on this build lately. I need to get that taillight bolted down and need to make a plate bracket soon.

I'm lacking motivation to get this stuff cut and fitted even though all they really will be are L brackets. Totally burned out from working on the Z.

But onto some progress. We got the harness plugged back in. There's only 4 unplugged connectors up on the front (2 are the instrument cluster) the 2 others I have no clue. There's also some unplugged connectors on that run from the turn signal box, but those will be figured out once the diagrams show up. I'll get pics of that stuff later on.

Also found out how the battery was secured when we cut the zipties. Turns out the bottom of the battery has been supported with 2 door stops keeping it upright:



Nice idea I'm not gonna lie never would have thought of door stops to hold a battery in place. Aiming to get this build up to date tomorrow night.

Been thinking of what to do to the Z lately paint scheme wise, and I stumbled upon this sheet of carbon fiber wrap and decided could go with that as a second color of sorts. Only have the logo done now, but there's going to be a lot more of the wrap going on later:
 
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