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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i thought id start up my build thread now seeing as the snow over here has pretty much brought our shit transport network to a standstill so i wont be riding the bike for a couple of weeks anyway.

So how it started out like when i bought it






As the fairings were coming off i thought id start with the essentials and get the carb air feed sorted.

Got that done quite quickly after all of the ball ache trying to find a suitable tube. Ended up using a Diesel fuel pipe as it was the right Diameter and was very cheap. Cut it in half and fed the tubes into the airbox.



Next was to remove the rest of the fairings, pretty simple job, just a bit of a pain as Honda seemed to over do it with the wiring harness and for some reason opted for around 5 feet extra than was needed.



Started to neaten everything up, shorten the wires etc and then got distracted and made this wonderful creation



So thats where i am now.

Next up is to;

  • continue to shorten the front wiring loom, hide it and generally neaten it up
  • design my custom gauge and machine it at work
  • Source and fit a single 7" round headlight for the short term until i can decide properly on my design
  • Relocate the oil cooler and mount it in front of the radiator.

Thanks,
John
 

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Nice start
 

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I always liked the idea of these for a fighter, the (front) frame and engine look nice.

Since the engine lower cases are the same as a CBR400, I've often wondered if you could fit a CBR400 nc29 swingarm and wheel. That should line up the chain and would give a chunky gullarm, and 160 rear tyre. nc23 arm also similar if you prefer symmetrical, the 29 wheel fits either. Chain run is different to the 600f2/3 though.

Those swingers go for pennies on eBay UK, have a look. Ensure you get the rubber and chain guard with it, those cost more than the arm usually.

Front ends on Hondas are so easy to change it's crazy, almost all use the same bearings and similar stems. You won't regret modern brakes and springs.

Round headlights are cool, stick with it. Gives somewhere to stuff the wires, too.

Check out eBay seller AutoStar. You can buy new terminals to fit in the original blocks - cut out 2 foot of wire and put a new terminal on to use the OE blocks without needing soldering or rough bullet clips etc. Nice and tidy, and reliable.

You could use a nc29 sprocket cover and speedo cable to move the sender off the front wheel. Probably. Also probably, you could use a 96-7 electronic sender to feed a digital dash.

I think I'd go with a monster seat, no fairing.

Not that I've thought about picking up an F1 cheap and making a project out of it... that often.

Above all, DW :)

edit: dude, you actually look kinda like me, same glasses too.
 

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Also since the bottom cases are the same, you could check out a CBR400 oil cooler, it uses a heat exchanger to put the heat into the regular radiator. No extra radiator and not too much hoses to plumb. Without fairings your bike will run cooler anyway, heat won't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info, i was looking into a CBR swingarm as they take a wider wheel, as im sure everyone knows the f1 600 rear is too skinny.

As for the seat, ill be making my own subframe and tail unit (either out of sheet metal or fibreglass) depends which i feel like using at the time.

Time for me to do some sketching and draw up some designs for the old girl. Im not sure which route i want to go down yet (clean and simple or all out bonkers streetfighter) pen to paper will soon decide the outcome.

Thanks for the advice though a morti.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
took the dials apart and am about to begin work on designing the new cluster.


A lot smaller, cleaner and better looking is the aim.
Get it designed and have it machined hopefully by the weekend ready to install.
Will upload the finished design once its done
 

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You can save quite a lot of space using LEDs instead of incandescent in the dash board. Also they dont burn out so no access holes required. Won't work for all idiot lights though, fuel warning light if you have one and indicator light if single for both will cause problems. I'd ditch the fuel gauge all together if you have a reserve tap on these.

Keep it coming :)
 

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Copper hoses will tend to stress from vibration I think? Anyway they'll go green with age? Other than that cool idea if you have methods I don't know about (likely).

Your design looks cool although I don't see anywhere for the battery, relays and CDI. Battery on the engine cases, relays in a thin cavity under the seat? Keep your regulator cool
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I plan to have an area undercover seat to house all the electrics but I couldn't be bothered/ didn't have time on my lunch break to put it in. I just put in the basics at this stage just to come up with a rough theme.

I have a few ideas for the copper. Early exploration stage at the moment though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know i said i was going to make a custom gauge out of the original stock unit, but it was turning into something quite large and bulky...proving very difficult to reduce in size due to the mechanical speedo drive.

So i had got a parcel through the post today at work, wasn't expecting it to come this quick but very happy it has.





Its a brand new Sigma BC 1609 computer with back light. Did a lot of research before i bought it into many different makes and models and this turned out to be the best one to suit my needs.

I have a neat little idea up my sleeve for mounting. Will reveal that later.... Cant wait to get it installed, calibrated and actually see how fast the old girl is really going.

Watch this space
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had a few things to bodge on the bike to get me to work today...

I am yet to relocate the oil cooler so had to cable tie it to the bottom yoke...it wasn't pretty but held up well on the journey. I had to take off the original speedo drive wire as its not needed anymore.

So this is where I'm at now with the bike.

- I have shortened and modified the loom ( i still want to do more just to make it a while lot neater as there are now wires i do not need and they are taking up valuable space)

- i have fixed in place a 7" round headlamp, had to modify it internally as it was made for a different bulb type and i couldn't get my current bulb cradle in. So a bit of cutting, sanding and bonding of the headlamp unit was needed. Pleased with it now though as it all works quite nicely.

So a few pictures after i rode to work







Oil cooler desperately needs moving, that's the next job and notice how much of a mess heated grips are??
Terrible they have got to go as well; so i may turn some billet grips or just purchase some within the week if i can find a decent set. Not sure yet.

Once i have finished the above and am happy, i will then move on the to rear and sort that out.

I also don't think i should have taken pictures with my works Cannon camera is its far to good and shows up how dirty and rusty the thing is. A least its an honest and ridable bike though with bags of character.
 

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I am yet to relocate the oil cooler so had to cable tie it to the bottom yoke...it wasn't pretty but held up well on the journey.
Cable ties FTW!

I used to have an F1, loved it.

Looking forward to seeing your design work out. Do the heated grips work, maybe you can tidy them up? I wouldn't have anything else, my hands can get fookin cold without them in this weather. Billet grips will be damn chilly this time of year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cable ties FTW!

I used to have an F1, loved it.

Do the heated grips work, maybe you can tidy them up? I wouldn't have anything else, my hands can get fookin cold without them in this weather.
They do work yes. i have a set of Oxford heated grips and they have 5 temperature settings. If you put it onto the hottest setting your hands start to burn. It really is that hot.

I cant say how good any other grips are as those are the only ones i have had.

If i can shorten the wires and neaten them up then yes they will be good to keep. The trouble is i just don't want wires everywhere. Hard to achieve when you have an F1 as they are all over the place and Honda never attempted to make them neat due to fairings.

Wiring has to be the dullest part of any build.
 

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Yeah mine are Hot Grips too, some days when it's been really cold i've not been able to feel that they are burning me, when i took off my gloves my palms look like i'm some sort of chronic masturbator! :D

You've definitely got your work cut out pulling wires out of the way. You can probably untie those knots in the grip leads and pull them back a bit, leave just enough slack for side-to side movement. Most of your wires can probably be re-routed and tucked up under the tank / over the air box. Under my Duc tank looks like this!



I could shorten everything but, meh!

A big thing would be getting all that crap from under your seat out of view. I'd redo your radiator overflow and stick that somewhere visible but aesthetically pleasing, there's loads of info about overflow bottles around here. Then you can move your batt, fuses, etc forward. I might even consider getting rid of your air box in replacement for pod filters and pull everything all the way under the tank. Loads of people say that that will screw your fuelling but personally i think the F1 was very rich in stock form, that's why it's so silky smooth. You might lose a bit of that maybe, but a little character never hurt anyone.

Alternatively maybe some little side panels might look good, monster ones look a good shape, not sure on the size though:

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the info,
I had a Coors light beer bottle as my overflow on my last bike. Looked pretty cool and worked quite nicely. I made 3 working overflow bottles out of the ones i had so may be inclined to do that again on this.

Space is definitely what i need, I would go for pod filters but im not ready to at this stage due to needing to use the bike regularly and i cant afford to have it not running properly. Something to think about in the future though.

Under my tank doesn't look to different to yours really. Lookily no one will ever see it but it still bugs me a little as im just hiding the problem rather than solving it, ha.
 

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That oil cooler is so small, that I would guess now the fairings are off and the sump is more in the wind, you could probably just do away with it? IDK but you've got to do something as you say. How about a fairly drastic hack of the hoses, and put it under the exhaust manifold? IF you really need a cooler I still say a CBR400 one would be a good way to go and would have to fit.
 
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