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Seriously??? I can do that, not attached to it at all. It isnt in the best shape. I'll take a picture and send it to ya.
:) one man's dirt is another man's gold,,thats what makes me a hoarder:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Here is what got done today. Little things but time consuming. Cold and rainy out so thought I would come into my nice shop and get some file work done. Cut the upper support of rear heel guard. Put some windows in the sprocket cover. Installation tomorrow with pics of coarse.



 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Build update.

This just in... no really. I have in my hands my wire harness and a smoked lens with integrated LED brake lights and turn signals. Normally about $100, but I got it for $43.28 off egay. :fu: Tested and works great!!! :rock: Tail cowling should be here today sometime. :party-smiley: Some connectors are different from the ones on my bike and some need to be repaired but I should be able to start the bike soon. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Got a Ducati Monster seat coming this way. I am thinking that I will cut it down to a single seat so I have room for some of the electronics under the tail cowl. Also it looks like it will wrap around the gas tank the way I want and cover up some tank to frame gap. If not I will have to fab some brackets to raise the sub frame up to the tank. I absolutely love the tail cowl, Fiberglass with gelcoat. Perfect for my application. Oh it is also a Ducati Monster tail cowl. I love them, and I think I am going to have to get one for the Bandit aswell. Maybe that will be for a later project. When I stall out on this one???

No pics... I have hit my limit I guess. When does that reset or does it? Might I need to upgrade to the VIP membership?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Started hooking up the wire harness and found there to be some differences from the old harness to the new one. The old harness is a the original 93' but the one I bought (94'-95') even though the model of the bike didnt change there are some differences in connectors and what not.

Ignition switch went from a 4 pin to a 6 pin.
Side stand switch went from a single pin to a 2 pin and a seperate ?bullet type? connection.
Neutral switch different type of connector altogether.
Oil pressure switch was different as well.
Rear brake light switch had a different 2 pin connector
I had some molex connectors left over from my work and used those where I could.

The old Alternator plug is melted and is un useable. Any plug suggestions looks like a heavier gauge wire so do I need a heavy duty type plug?

I dont have a manual for the GSXR but I do have a manual for my Bandit. Sure nough the wireing is a very close match even the colors are the same. So that helped find out which wires connected to what. So I would almost say that the wireing schematics are almost the same on any Suzuki. FYI

On another note took my exhaust can off for size reduction. Its a D&D pipe so carbonfiber outside. Should be easy to cut down. Any thing I might need to know about before I delve into this task?
Also am thinking about shortening the exhaust pipe, so that the can will fit right behind my right footpeg. I will have to relocate the hanger.

I know boreing and long winded. But it is cold and wet here in Oregon and that just forces me and my old bones to work inside not in the garage.

Any help or suggestions greatly accepted, I have a pretty good idea but am interested in what the pros have to say aswell.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Work done. Cut exhaust can down from 16" to 8". Just need to get some rivits and a puller to re-assemble. My seat should be here after Thanksgiving on the 30th will start designing the subframe. I have a pretty good idea, but I am kind of hung up on how to integrate everything into it. I need an electronics tray and a battery box to go some how on there. But I want a clean install. I have been scouring the forum to see other jobs but can seem to find any with focus on the sections I need.

Plus I dont think that this is even being read. No responses to my posts. I must be doing something wrong. I know I need to post pictures and I will but cmon I could use some feeback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks I was starting to wonder if this even worked or not. Or If I was boring everybody. Yeah cant wait for the seat to come in on the 30th. Thats really gonna help desing the tail. Little bit lifted and shortened is the plan. Then I can start the battery tray and electronics and moutn up the rear brake light and undertail. ??? Just slow right now with xmas coming and all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Picture update. Got my exhaust can sealed up and riveted from the chop up. Hope you like. I am a little concerned with the way it sticks out to the side. I might need to remedy that and try and run it a bit closer to the swing arm. Dont want to hit it when carving roads. Also I will mount the hanging bractet to a spot just under the frame. That should let the can look suspended on its own.




Let me know what you think. I like it a lot better than the 16" can that it used to have. Hope it isnt too loud. I will have to try and baffle it if possible. Any ideas how?
 

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RUST REMOVER
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That looks sick, I like the kicked out angle. I feel like doin that to my yoshi can since the outlet end of the can is rashed. Does it make a deeper sound tho? I like the screaming GP sound of my Yoshi. ('90 GSXR 750)
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WHO DARES WINS RODDERS
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Picture update. Got my exhaust can sealed up and riveted from the chop up. Hope you like. I am a little concerned with the way it sticks out to the side. I might need to remedy that and try and run it a bit closer to the swing arm. Dont want to hit it when carving roads. Also I will mount the hanging bractet to a spot just under the frame. That should let the can look suspended on its own.




Let me know what you think. I like it a lot better than the 16" can that it used to have. Hope it isnt too loud. I will have to try and baffle it if possible. Any ideas how?
Er just pop a baffle in there.:D just need to find a baffle for your tailpipe diameter and secure it in there with a bolt. Look on fleabay. It aint gona make it that much quieter

Looking good BTW
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Another update w/ pics.



Here's what I got for the tail idea. this is juts setting up there as I cut down the subframe.
I dont think that I will be useing the peices from the subframe. They just didnt work out that well. But to give you an idea with out the seat cowling on there of course. What do ya think? Am having a hard time with designing the new subframe. But I have some ideas. Wanna stick with aluminum if possible. But the square tubing I want to use will need to be bent in a way to align with the seat. Also coming up with a way to still have the bike latch work and integrate the brakelight assembly into that as well. Like someones signature says "falling in love with this bike, one headache at a time".
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Okay, got some work done. I think I am going in the right direction here on the subframe. So I got some aluminum stock from a steel yard. Thats the way to go, way cheaper. But anyway I needed to design the seat rails to fit the seat the way I wanted. So by making a series of cuts on the inside of where I want the bend to go. I was able to curve around and line up to where it connects to the frame. Here is what that looks like.



These are the original frame mounts I cut out to fit inside the new frame rails. I think that if done right they will weld up really good. I hope.



Just got to do a bit more cutting to get the frame attachments to 9 1/4". Then I can cut the rails to length so that the seat hugs the fuel tank the right way with the attachments installed. I left me some room for doing this on the rails. I am looking at the possibility of using the aluminum brazing rods. So I can say I did all this myself. With welding the cuts I am worried that it blow through. Brazing just looks so much more right for this application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Next up mounting brackets for the tail cowling to attach to the seat. Should be simple right? Got some thick aluminum plate from the steel yard for this. It is just a couple triangle shaped "L" brackets should go well. My cereal box is ready for templates. Sooo... Back to doing work. :D
 

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ShamanFighter
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that exhaust is dag nasty if ur worried bout it you can get steel mesh cylinders and attach to the center and put moose dirt bike packing around it and rivet back together
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
It has a mesh center already in it and original packing. Are you talking about additional mesh and packing? I just dont want there to be any backfireing when I let off the throttle. That's kinda all I am worried about. And by "dag nasty", I take it, that is a good thing?
 

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ShamanFighter
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It has a mesh center already in it and original packing. Are you talking about additional mesh and packing? I just dont want there to be any backfireing when I let off the throttle. That's kinda all I am worried about. And by "dag nasty", I take it, that is a good thing?
add more packing

and dag nasty is good
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
add more packing

and dag nasty is good
I will have to check it out when I get it running and see how it sounds and go from there, thanks!
 
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