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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I got a good deal on a lightly roughed up 999 that I want to use as a track bike, and if I can pull it off race bike for next season. It's been down and rebuilt, but it still has a couple issues. The clutch makes A LOT of noise, lots more than my 749. The outer section stops turning when it's in gear which my 749 doesn't do. You have to pull the clutch almost all the way in, so I assume it needs new friction plates but I haven't flushed the fluids yet. The back brake doesn't work hopefully a flush will fix that too.

But the biggest problem is the bike is really unstable, at low speeds the front end is pushing you into a turn, and at medium speeds (haven't had it fast yet) it resists turning and tries really hard to stand back up. Seems like it might be neutral at about 25-30mph. So am I correct that the rear end is too low? The front is already lowered about as much as you can and it's the same height as my 749. I haven't set sag or preload yet, just got some initial wrenching done to fix/check the major stuff. The tires are pretty new. It's really nervous in corners. I can one hand corners on my 749, it's perfect. Thanks for any help.

Stay safe this weekend. Someone on a sportbike was killed in a traffic accident about a mile from my house yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
18 front, 26 rear.





One of the reasons I got it was because I got fiberglass race bodywork, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to use it or not. It's pretty rough and the belly pan is broken in a few spots. I'm not schooled in fiberglass repair. I always just seem to get all itchy when I do anything with fiberglass or carbon fiber. I have all the original fairings as well but they are all scratched up.

 

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18 front, 26 rear.
So all better now?

I'm not schooled in fiberglass repair. I always just seem to get all itchy when I do anything with fiberglass or carbon fiber.
It is very easy.

Scuff original part.

Mix up some quality epoxy.

I like this stuff http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=310270102635&alt=web

You can get some from West Marine too.

Layup with some fiberglass cloth

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=321675286965&alt=web

You can get that from West or TAP plastics. Other plastic shops may have cloth as well. I like the woven stuff over the mat since it looks nicer and is easier to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Mike. I'll check that out.
I'm tearing it down at the moment. I figured out the master cylinder for the clutch is bad, the inch or so of slack shows fluid backfilling into the reservoir. I'm going to do the rear brake next.
The steering stop is broken off the bottom triple, which I need to pass inspection. Not sure how I'll fix that yet. I'm not sure but the steering angle looks adjustable. I also noticed the rear swingarm angle is adjustable, there is an offset washer thing where the swingarm attaches. It's currently in the flatter position.
 

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i wouldnt bother fixing the fiberglass body work if u are going to track it. just zip tie stitch it and go racing, spend the money one something more useful like tires or track time. nobody at the track gives a shit what ur bike looks like and there are no bitches to impress there, at least where i go..

one of the only ducatis i like the stock look of. would love one for the race track myself and sounds like u got it for a good deal with minor issues.

are those oem wheels for this bike? shits are sexy.
 

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18 front, 26 rear.
I think it should be nearer 32/36 i'd think. Is on my SS, and a quickish google puts it around there.

So you have a 749 and 999 now? Totally not jealous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks DrJ, they are the stock wheels. Marchesini. Only reason I'm looking at fixing the race bodywork is because the belly pan is cracked in a few spots at or near the bottom. The rulebook says the belly pan should hold 3 quarts of fluid, in its current state it wouldn't hold 3 ounces. I won't make any friends if I go to the track and spill something because I didn't fix the belly pan.


Can you drill and tap the triple for a he head screw to use as a stop?

Steering angle should be adjustable
Good call, I can probably get a piece of aluminum stock and attach it to the triple and then still have a set screw adjustor. I thought only the S and R models had adjustable steering angle. Should I set it up with the steeper angle since I plan on only track use?

Thanks Cookie, I'll try it at those pressures when I put it back together for the next test ride. And yeah, I'm a bit spoiled having two Ducs. May not have been the best idea since I'm pretty much broke now but it was hard to pass up this deal. My wife thinks I should sell the GSXR since I don't ride it much now, I always ride the 749. I don't think I'll get much for it though, and I've put so much into it I hate to sell it. It could easily pay for a few sets of tires though...
 

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I think only the 749 dark didn't have the adjustable rake. The 749-999 bikes aren't my niche so I may be wrong.

I'd try the rake both ways. Adjusting the rake may require rear suspension adjustments to get the suspension back to correct. There are usually suspension techs at track days to help for a small fee.
 

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Thanks DrJ, they are the stock wheels. Marchesini. Only reason I'm looking at fixing the race bodywork is because the belly pan is cracked in a few spots at or near the bottom. The rulebook says the belly pan should hold 3 quarts of fluid, in its current state it wouldn't hold 3 ounces. I won't make any friends if I go to the track and spill something because I didn't fix the belly pan.
for what organization??

i doubt youre going straight into racing, right? i dont know what kind of experience u have... for racing yea you def need to fix/replace but most track day orgs dont have belly pan rules ive ran mine with broken belly pans, oem pans that are open in the middle and no belly pan at all most of the time (less shit to break)

i only say that so ur not spending money on fiberglass and resin, spending the time to fix it and all that then u end up not needing it at all.

i know for the track orgs ive ridden with, all they care about is taped up lights/mirrors, tire wear, brake pad wear and nothing leaking at time of tech. rest is on you to decide if u want to do it or not based on ur skill level
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
http://www.mra-racing.org/

So here's my plan: I am going to Ricky Orlando's race school soon, which is one on one instruction at high plains raceway, no one else on track. I get my MRA racing license if I do good enough. At that point if my bike passes inspection I can enter in a couple classes. Safety wire, belly pan, etc.
The alternative is to go to the MRA's race school next spring and race in superstreet, which just has regular track day rules for bikes and I can run street fairings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Racing + (Ducati x addiction) / peer pressure - desire to win = $$$
I like your math, but I think I can do better:

(Racing + (Ducati x addiction) / peer pressure - desire to win) / fix it myself = $


I bled the rear brakes for what seemed like forever, and I still get air out of the bleeder. So I'm trying to find a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, and the clutch master cylinder. Seems like an 848/1098 clutch master swap is popular too.
 

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is the 999 caliper underslung? I know for the underslung calipers you are supposed to unbolt it and hang it higher than the master.


....and I like your math, but

(Racing + (Ducati x addiction) / peer pressure - desire to win) / fix it myself (Turbo)²= $$$
 

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is the 999 caliper underslung? I know for the underslung calipers you are supposed to unbolt it and hang it higher than the master.
Overslung i believe. But while we're here, for anyone interested, the underslung brembos are best unbolted and turned right way up so the nipple is at the top and bled like that with something between the pads. They're a c'nt otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've been doing lots of reading trying to figure out the best way to get this thing set up. Seems like if you run the steeper fork angle you have to have offset triples to fix trail or the front end will be really unstable.
The 27 or 30mm offset triples are near a grand. That seems a but much, but I haven't had to buy triples before. I would have guessed about half that, at least that's what I'd expect for a quote if I just sent drawings to a machine shop. I haven't made anything like that for a few years though so I could be out of touch. Seriously thinking of drawing up a set and having them quoted...
I also found out the good setup is changing out the rear shock link for one that's more linear, with a new ride height rod (shorter) and then modify the shock so it's a bit shorter. Supposed to make corner exits on the throttle more predictable.

I still need springs for my weight too so this might get a little expensive. I think I need to get everything working back to factory specs, set sag, damping, etc. and then go ride it on track and see if I really like it that much or if I should go a different route. I really like these bikes but then again I haven't ridden much else. The only thing I'm thinking about is the 999 probably isn't that competitive against the newer stuff. I don't mind doing this bike up but I don't want to go through that and then still be outgunned in the HP dept. If I remember right the 999 is in the same class as the 899 which seems kind of unfair. If my 749 wasn't so pristine it would probably be the better race bike candidate, more classes and probably more competitive.
 
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