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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have always been a lurker on here but never much one to post on forums. I get a lot of cool ideas from looking at the different build threads here and I wanted to contribute myself. Over the next few months I will be tackling into a 2015 Yamaha FZ09/MT09 Streetfighter project

I have been eyeballing the FZ09 for a little over a year now. I have always been a fan of the Three cylinder engine package and how it delivers power on the low end. I have ridden a four cylinder a twin cylinder and even a single cylinder street bike over the past few years and have always had a deep envy for the way the Triumph Street triple hit on the bottom end. When the FZ09 came out the package I could have hoped for came true. A Japanese built sport three cylinder it is exactly what I have been looking for in a bike for drift and freestyle.

On new years day I decided to pick one up and bring it home. It will still be about two months until it gets finished but I started to dig into it a little bit today. Starting with three 20 minute heat cycles and then stripping some bits down from there.

Here is the FZ09 when it hit the home front





Rolled it into the garage and popped the mirrors off first.



Followed it up with removing the tail light and blinkers.



When I was looking at the bracing and brackets on the subframe there was no need for this mount once the under tail was gone.



The lines of the tail on this bike are so sleek. Yamaha nailed it on this tail section.



The easy pull RSC clutch perches



A must for me on every bike are a pair of Full Diamond thin grips. I put the RSC clutch on and removed the street controls while I was it it.



I am going to put a different set of calipers on but am waiting for the new upper triple clamp to measure the lines so I just tossed the new master on for now. I love how the Magura 195 16mm radial feels on almost all bikes compaired to their OEM radial master feel. This will be a huge upgrade from the OE FZ09 non radial.



Not how I plan on mounting the resi cup but just strapped it up for now to bleed it.



These are the Brembo Calipers that I will be running up front as well as on my handbrake setup.



Removed the passenger pegs and cleaned up the rear resi cup while I was at it. Shortened the line by 1.5 inches and mounted the cup to the passenger peg mount. Found an aluminum spacer to fit inside the rubber mount to give the bolt something to bottom out on. Topped it off with a little Locktite. Also removed the rubber sheathing around the line.

 

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GURU of da poo poo
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5,717 Posts
Aren't you sponsored by KTM?
 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im sure a lot of people on here already know this but for anyone struggling to get grips on or off a little air is the golden ticket.

Wax off


Wax on


Before I bring the bike to the Dyno and start flinging white lithium all over the dyno room I decided to give the chain a little Simple Green bath.
 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the rad responses guys! I am super pumped to turn this bike into a performance work of art and will do my best to keep everyone posted along the way. I will be making some pretty big head way on the bike this week as more parts come in tomorrow and Tuesday. I am trying to pick out what bars I want to run this evening to order in the morning. The OE bars are of nice quality but with my broader build at 6"3' the OE bars are a little too narrow for my preference. The stock bars are 29" (736mm) wide without the bar ends. I normally run a bar that is 31.5" (800mm) on my freestyle, Flattrack and Motocross bikes.

I also want a bar that is a little bit lower that the OE bar as when I install the GPR Stabilizer and upper bar mount that the bars will now be 20mm higher and I feel that if any higher the seating position will become too relaxed for my preference.

I normally run Pro Taper Bars across the board but I have a problem on my Freestyle bikes with the amount of space to mount the controls on the left hand side with my clutch/handbrake setup. I searched between the brands and am between the ODI Champ and Vortex V3 MX bend. They both not only have the proper space to mount all of my controls but also are in my ballpark of the rise,sweep,width and pullback angle that I like.

With either choice I will be removing the cross bar. The oversized bars with the cross bar are a little to rigid for my style and it is a bonus that the left cross bar mount will make a great mount for my handbrake reservoir.

I know that it is hard to find the bend charts sometimes so ill post the Vortex and ODI bend charts here.

Vortex


ODI
 

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Administrator
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5,263 Posts
These are the Brembo Calipers that I will be running up front as well as on my handbrake setup.

I think Brembo usually have a 100mm bolt spacing vs 108 spacing on Jap brands of caliper. What bike are those Brembos from, are they going to fit straight?

Welcome, nice start, subbed!
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
I think Brembo usually have a 100mm bolt spacing vs 108 spacing on Jap brands of caliper. What bike are those Brembos from, are they going to fit straight?

Welcome, nice start, subbed!
Those calipers aren't OEM from any bike I know about. Looks like these - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brembo-Raci...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d77e9fd2&vxp=mtr

I got a feeling this isn't a garden shed build like most of us - this fella has some $ to throw at his project. Why else would you start on a showroom-fresh bike?
 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think Brembo usually have a 100mm bolt spacing vs 108 spacing on Jap brands of caliper. What bike are those Brembos from, are they going to fit straight?

Welcome, nice start, subbed!
Yup! You can order them in 100 and 108mm spacing. I have 108's for the front as well as the hand brake bracket for the rear.
 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Starting to get the bike prepped to get a little time on the track next weekend before I strip the bike completely down for the custom work. I took it over to Bazzaz's dyno put put a good 50 miles of load runs and heat cycles on the engine before I spin some laps on it at Sonoma.

Before I brought it in I threw some real rubber on the beast and discarded the harder than a whores heart donuts. The main reason I did this for they dyno and not just the track is so I can keep a control tire on the rear throughout the build and since I will be running the Bridgestone R10's on the 09 that's what I will be burning a chicken strip into today.

Most might cringe but I can have an old tire off and and a new one on in less than 3 minutes. Aluminum tire irons and small plastic shims keep the rims looking better than any dealership hack job.





While the rim was off I also swapped out the valve stems to the aluminum ones that I like to run. I like the look, the weight and I had a rubber one tear years ago so I swap them out on all of my rims.






As usual the OCD kicked in and I put liquid gasket around the new valve stem as it did not fit completely flush in this Yami rim so I leveled it out and gave it that in between the ears seal of confidence.



All systems go and everything went great on Bazzaz's dyno. I will post up the charts when I get them in PDF.

 

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Knows nothing....
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2,132 Posts
Aaron Colton welocme! I actually watched you stunt about a decade ago.

Great to see this work happening! Looks a lot cleaner already and I want to see this customization that you're planning. Subbed
 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So the drain plug cracking the oil pan all the time is a no go for me. I will eventually make a custom oil pan for the bike with a different location of the oil drain. I have to start testing the bike soon so I cant take the engine down for this long at the time.

Here is the drain plug that i found with the same specs as the FZ but a nice flush mount allen head instead.



I don't want to drop the OEM oil till I hit 200 miles so I laid the bike on the side almost until the rear brake pedal was touching the ground and rested the handlebar end on a PA speaker.



With little blood spared out with the old in with the new.



I shaved the fin with the die grinder down until just above flush and polished up with a flap disk extending the radius further forward to keep a sleek angle.



Finally found a Vision LED headlight to replace the OEM one.



Wow... It looks mean. Will work great as a front number plate as well.



Ferocious... but I didn't like the clear lenses on the headlight so I pulled it and went to the store to grab some Rid Dye.



I had done this on a model airplane windshield one time but I am not quite sure how this will work out on a thicker plastic but I figured I would give it a try. I got the water to a rolling boil and poured the hot water into a new drain pain. I put the full bottle of Blue Dye into the hot water and once it hit 200 degrees I put the head light lens in the pan. I covered it with foil and I will let it sit overnight. I will see how much the color takes in the morning.

 

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First time fighter
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Curious to know why you changed the oil drain plug?
Because on this bike the drain plug is the lowest point in the motorcycle and they easily catch on curbs and such. Between the new drain plug and shaving down the drain plug protector fin the bike now has more ground clearance.
 
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