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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I'm tearing the bike down and last time I did this I didn't have a bike for over a year I figure I'll start a thread where I can get :fu:'s for not getting off my ass to DW :)

Heres what I brought home 2 weeks ago


Rode the pants off of it ...
Heres it's pants


Googled around for some inspiration...



Started buying parts... Thanks Purpony :)


Found a "matching" wheel on another forum...


Rode it one last time before putting it in the basement...


And it's home till it's done.


Wonder if this was part of the inspiration for the new headlight design on the new S3's


Heres some photoshopping of ideas...


And after a bit of work, here's how it sites
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So far I've got
wheels
easton taper bars off a ktm 85sx
set of fatbar risers
box of speed triple hardware (on the way)
03 digital clocks
03 speed triple main wiring harness to cut up for bits or replace mine with
direct shift shifter (the OE bits are sloppy as hell)

Still need
Axles spacers:
Right side - 25.05 mm ID x 35mm OD x 28mm long
Left Side - 1mm longer than stock left side spacer
1050 Sprint Rotors
Rare earth magnets
speed sensor
Maybe throttle/clutch/brake lines
Headlight (have an idea for this, need to get it on paper)
sync TB's
check valve clearances
clean this dirty fucker
reassemble bike
ride bike with smile on face
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Playing with jacking up the tail a few inches... Could extend the bottom subframe rail by about an inch without disrupting electrics or plumbing...


Not sure I wanna deal with modifying the plastics for this but it's a really aggressive look. Would fuck with my ergo's significantly and I'm tip toeing it around parking lots already. I have carpal tunnel as well, and this would add hand/wrist fatigue :(
 

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Commander Cool
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9,707 Posts
with the fatbars you'll find you can get away with a higher/more angled seating position, won't fuck your wrists up so much
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
You also need to...
Service the rear suspension link
Use a 5/8" front master (98 cbr900 for example)
Use a 1/2" rear master (zxr750 for example)

I am 5'10" with long skinny legs and if you're not significantly longer legged than me then leave the seating position as it is.

DW :)
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
Depending the condition of your linkage you might find it cheaper to trade up to a later 1050 arm and linkage than buy the bearings. Nicer look, easy fit and come up cheap on occasion.
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
with the fatbars you'll find you can get away with a higher/more angled seating position, won't fuck your wrists up so much
I was thinking that too. And if I'm not pleased with riding position I can look at a fatbar with a bit more rise and pull back or risers like what I had on my CBR


You also need to...
Service the rear suspension link
Use a 5/8" front master (98 cbr900 for example)
Use a 1/2" rear master (zxr750 for example)
I did notice the brakes were pretty shit compared to my CBR :) would the master swap give me some of that feel back?
Is there a resource that lists masters sizes by make and model so I can hunt for cheap :)

I am 5'10" with long skinny legs and if you're not significantly longer legged than me then leave the seating position as it is.

DW :)
I'm 5'7"ish with a 29" inseam. I'm pretty well accustomed to one footing it at lights and got over how silly it is to have to push the bike to move it in a parking lot :p So raising the seat height isn't as much of a concern in that department. If necessary I can sell the corbin and build me a seat. Found this orthopedic gel thats used in wheelchair pads for pretty cheap that could be cut and shaped. Cant find it on Amazon now of course...

Depending the condition of your linkage you might find it cheaper to trade up to a later 1050 arm and linkage than buy the bearings. Nicer look, easy fit and come up cheap on occasion.
Besides the fact that they are black, whats the difference? Just poked at worldoftriumph.com and linkage part numbers are the same between my bike and all but the newest generation of s3.

Arms look a touch different tho. Not really interested in that kind of expense and REALLY hoping my bearings can do with just a repack :p
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also since I don't have easy access to a welder...

Extending the rear subfram...
My subby attaches like this


Would it be safe to use some round or square stock to extend it so I can test out the position before commiting? I'm also considering a tail swap for next year and am thinking it may be advantageous to not fuck this one up permanently so it can sell :p
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
The standard uses an undersized master at 14mm instead of 5/8". It gets squishy and needs rebleeding fairly often, the lever travel is too long, and the bite is somewhat too ferocious compared to what you need. This is all compared to the standard "sportsbike feel" which has emerged over the years. Swapping to 5/8" will fix it in one step. ZXR750, 1000SRAD or anything sporty with 6-pots will do it, as will 600 or 750K2 or similar era, also 900RRW-X. If you like a built-in reservoir more than piss-pot type, Hyabusa will be perfect. Best bet is to go to a local wrecker's and rummage through their box of spares, which they will almost certainly have.

The rear brake is oversized, 14mm instead of 1/2". It makes the pedal rock-hard, underpowered and "wooden". So you have to really step on the brake, at which point it works as an on/off switch. Swap to the master from a ZXR750 amongst others, and it will work much much nicer. I used ZXR400L, as this was a direct fir with even the same threads cut, but again going through a box of spares will be probably the best way.

The rear arm just looks nicer to be honest! It is a nicer looking casting, seen here:





The main reason though is that the bearings in the linkages in these arms do dry out, do rust, do seize, and the parts alone are very expensive. Replace with a low miles replacement part from a newer bike and you're on a winner, and can still eBay off your arm and old wheel or put it on here for someone who wants a conversion rear end.
 
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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
TuneECU works. Bike bitched that I didn't have half the sensors plugged in :shrug:


Rolled the wheel over to see what it looks like... not a great photo in tight quarters


Next step is check valve clearance :bawling:
Why cant pushrod motors be all the rage

Now whered I put my feeler gauges...
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
The new wheels are cool but they're 5.5" not 6" like the ugly 3 spoke so you'll be needing a 180 not 190.

TuneECU is awesome and amazingly powerful for free software.

The valves are a special Triumph tool job unless you want to remove the cams, or there's a replica usually available on eBay. They tighten up so ideally set at the loose end of tolerane.

Don't neglect the rear linkage while you're doing a service.
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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5,325 Posts
A 190 will fit that wheel just fine. Most reputable brands are designed to work on either a 5.5 or 6 inch


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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6,964 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The new wheels are cool but they're 5.5" not 6" like the ugly 3 spoke so you'll be needing a 180 not 190.
A 190 will fit that wheel just fine. Most reputable brands are designed to work on either a 5.5 or 6 inch
A bunch of folks over on triumphrat.net run a 190 on their 1050s
I'll get whatever I can get cheap as a matching set. I'm way over budget as it is.

TuneECU is awesome and amazingly powerful for free software.

The valves are a special Triumph tool job unless you want to remove the cams, or there's a replica usually available on eBay. They tighten up so ideally set at the loose end of tolerane.

Don't neglect the rear linkage while you're doing a service.
The PO (2nd owner) told me he had the local dealer do a valve check, fingers crossed.
And also mentioned that the original owner "put new cams in it" which I interpret as "installed the newer exhaust cam", fingers crossed on that as well. My bike is about 1000 units too early in the production line to have the new cam :p I've got 60323 and the new cam started at about 61xxx or so.

And you are the 3rd person to mention that rear linkage :p The other guys have said it's usually cheaper to buy the linkage off a newer low mileage bike than to buy replacement bearings :/ lame
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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5,325 Posts
honestly on the street you will be just fine with a 180 or 190. ha. looks killer
 
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rainbow
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30 Posts
Hi liking your bike I have just sold mine,in some ways wish I had not ,but got two gsxr,s on the go at the moment I was getting 142 bhp out of mine great fun and handling a little over engineered for there time sound great real head turners enjoy and be safe have a look at mine.
 
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