Hopefully I will get some more dyno time 24/6.
The bike "seems" to be riding really well so incase not much tuning is needed I am making a list of things to test back to back e.g. air filter on and off, Plasma ignition leads on and off, balance tube and no balance tube.
All tests have been done so far with the TPS wound to full throttle position ...connect or leave as is.
Also the intake runs really cold maybe I could try it wrapped and not wrapped.
Are there other tests anyone can think of that may help?
Should I ask for results in Din HP or some other?
The weather was very average this morning so rather than ride 1/2 hr to the dyno in rain I have rescheduled the test session and spent about 6hrs, making, fitting and wiring the TPS. Since the cdi was designed to work with the tps, I think it's the thing to do.
Just got my e-marked bar end mirrors, so I pulled off the "better looking" 75mm mirrors and banged on the new legal sized mirrors.
On a custom bike it doesn't feel right but I don't want to attract the wrong attention
Cold is good for an intake but despite running well once started, the weather here has gone single digits on the Celsius scale.
The result is wet plugs that won't fire up.
So I am going to wrap the centre of the manifold with silicone tape holding a wire wound resister against the manifold to heat it a bit on start up.
I've never done this before so comments are welcome.
And if it needs it, I will run a pipe from between the heads for warning once running.
Also I have ordered a 10mm Colortune kit to help get bottom end mixtures better, so I am looking forward to that arriving.
I made a heater from some resistors and fitted it to a test pipe with silicon tape.
Result heater quickly heated to 40 deg C and was47 after 10 minutes the pipe temp increased 3 deg C after 10mins.
So 15 Minutes Should work well on my Intake.
Now I need sort how to fit it neatly to the Bike and turn in on and off without Ignition on.
I bought some quick release pins to make it easer the flip the tank up.
I drilled out the threads with a 6mm drill, the pins measured 5.9 mm and across the locking balls is 6.9.
The pins are heaver construction than I expected. and the shank is 35mm long, 5mm longer than needed.
My plan was to shim the extra length but despite measuring the required length I have ended up 11mm oversize and the top triple hits them on lock.
So new plan, order 2 more with 25mm shank. 10mm shorter
Got a Colortune today, it is magic.
I only used it on the rear cylinder the front is too awkward.
Its a spark plug with a window so you can see the colour of the combustion and check the mixture.
I put it on and idle was correct (not surprising there is a air corrector to get idle correct) from idle to 5000 was rich then from 5000 up was good all checked free revving on a stand.
So I adjusted the higher revs to be richer and then leaned the whole range to be correct.
Its such a good feeling when You can see the combustion colour as you build revs and it is all good.
The bike had been running well but I knew it needed tweaking and the Color tune made it so easy. Adjustment took only 15 minutes.
I was trying to source advice from the man that had the world patent (except us) and was the only legitimate manufacturer outside the U.S. Bob Henderson in Scotland.
I was saying, once I have this sorted best I can, I would like to try dual fish on the sv,
This is a extract of the relevant part of his reply,, Just thought I would share it as it may shed some light on why I am starting with the single throttle body.
"As to using "twins" there would have to be a VERY exceptional reason for doing so!
Rememer all our racing car successes and Championshiups were always on a "single".(from Nurberg Ring to Le Mans)
Most of the conventional reasons for using "twins" do not usually apply when using the "Fish" principle. Including some very awkward aero "set ups"."
I got the correct quick release pins for my tank
Just picked up some 6mm steal rod which I will use to make a skeleton for the base. Thinking of sliding the tank back 40mm if the lines look right and the hinge works, that will make the new design that is much simpler.
If I fit the air cleaner sideways, from the air cleaner forward will be air box and the rear all fuel. Makes for an easer build and probably more fuel capacity.
Last chance for others to add input......
I think this will be the final tank position. I need to skirt around the bottom to increase the tank height approx. 2" down to the tank parameter hoop and shape to tank around the seat as a nice custom detail.
I spit the rear to make it a bit wider and the expected skirt height measurements (mm) are written on the take at a few points.
Next is make the base of the tank.
Arrived at last a honey come baffle. (like a cat without the catalyst coating)
Since the firs 6" of my megaphone muffler does nothing to quieten the sound level of the bike and I would like to keep the appearance of the old school muffler,
I thought this style of baffle may make use of that part of the muffler without introducing too much back pressure.
I have never used this style before so I will give it a go.
90mm long, flare 51mm, tube od 45mm, id 40mm at the celled section which is 50mm long
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