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Bandit Leaking Fuel

2K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Tx1021 
#1 ·
So picked up a Bandit 1200 that had been sitting about a year and this is what I've done so far:

-cleaned out the tank
-took the carbs apart and gave them a good cleaning and inspection, but didn't replace anything
-replaced old fuel and vacuum lines
-got the bike started and running yesterday, and it seemed to start up just fine and sounded great running


Anyways just went out to the garage and noticed some drops of fuel under the bike, the carbs completely full, and fuel in the air box as well.

Took the tank off and the petcock seems to be leaking, I say seems because if it is just sitting there I don't notice anything but if I move it around fuel definitely starts dripping out of it.

So would you guys rebuild/buy a new petcock first and then worry about floats after or should I just bite the bullet and order everything?

Also I see that there are some manual petcocks for Bandits, besides the crazy expensive Pingels... Anyone have experience with these? I don't really care about reserve settings or vacuum actuated things.. (Something like this.)

Thanks! :drinks:
 
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#2 ·
I personally hate the diaphragm petcocks and would just order a valve one like you posted. If you look on ebay you can get them for like $12.
As far as the floats, do the bowls have a drain on them? if so hook a clear tube to it then loop it up so its above the bowl fuel line and open it up. This will show you the fuel level and you can determine how much you need to adjust the floats.

like this...

 
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#3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion.

The petcock was definitely leaking, it has been emptying itself into a bucket all day even though it's on the "ON" position.

Ordered a new manual one and will test the floats when it gets here.


Another question, since there might be gas in the cylinders is the best way to clear that to pop the sparkplugs out and turn it over? And obviously will be changing the oil as well.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the suggestion.

Another question, since there might be gas in the cylinders is the best way to clear that to pop the sparkplugs out and turn it over? And obviously will be changing the oil as well.
if its been sitting a few days with the tank off all the fuel should have seeped passed the rings and into the crankcase by now but it wouldn't hurt either way if you want to be extra careful.
 
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#4 ·
Yeah take out plugs and turn over.Should get rid of any residual fuel in cylinders.When checking carbs make sure o rings are in good shape especially the ones around the seat for fuel needles.They can dry out and leak even tho the fuel needles are sealing.Thorough go over of the carbs is the best bet and check them on bench before install,hook up fuel bottle and see if the carbs overflow after half hr or so.No overflow ,good to go.Good idea to check emulsion tubes for wear too,these carbs are famous for emulsion tubes wearing oval.
 
#6 ·
Yeah take out plugs and turn over.Should get rid of any residual fuel in cylinders.When checking carbs make sure o rings are in good shape especially the ones around the seat for fuel needles.They can dry out and leak even tho the fuel needles are sealing.Thorough go over of the carbs is the best bet and check them on bench before install,hook up fuel bottle and see if the carbs overflow after half hr or so.No overflow ,good to go.Good idea to check emulsion tubes for wear too,these carbs are famous for emulsion tubes wearing oval.
O-rings and emulsion tubes looked fine to me, but I'm still really new to this whole carburetor thing so maybe they weren't.

That's a great suggestion on the fuel bottle, wish I had done that before reinstalling them :doh:
 
#7 ·
Update:

Got the new petcock in and installed and bench tested the carbs and 2 were leaking past the floats.

Bought a K&L rebuild kit with the float needles and seats and the seats were such a shitty fit that all four leaked around where they press into the carb bodies, swapped the new seat o-rings onto the old float seats and everything seems to be working great for now :party-smiley:


So does anyone know a better aftermarket alternative to the float assemblies than K&L? Was thinking about oem but if I'm reading the microfiche right they want around $55 for each one?!?
 
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