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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been thinking about this for uh maybe 5 years.



Well tempting, but ain't going there no more, and ain't gonna have no bling either



I'm thinking the funkier the better, maybe Army OD green. But gotta get the monoshock figured out. Shaft drive... I'm worried about all that unsprung weight. How's it working out for you guys that have done it?

I find a lot of chain drive conversions...


I don't like the Stiff Dick look of these reservoirs...

The Busa is a bit better

And the ZX14 is better yet


BUTa bit of research with the online spring rate calculator at Race Tech http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Suzuki/GSX1300R%20Hayabusa/2008-09 so far tells me the busa is the closest match for my fat ass.

So that's maybe the spring, but what about the swing arm end of the linkage. You won't get the bushings and bearings with the shock on ebay....? And what about damping all that weight?

So does that get me thread started?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Whelp some days chickens some days feathers.

Spent some time reading linkage 101 trying to get me head around it. http://www.promecha.com.au/leverage_linkages.htm Got a long ways to go there, don't intend to become an expert but figure I need some basics.

Sure wish I would have read about pulling a rotor/flywheel sooner. I was worried about the magnets, but got tempted to try Grandpas old pulley puller. I'll be gentle I thought... yeh right, broke the frickin magnet right off. Anybody got a replacement?
After some too late research, since I didn't have a ball bearing, I cut down a 3/8 to 1/4 socket adapter to stick in the hole and sure enough the rear axle bolt worked great.


My engine stand/jack didn't work as well as my dreams, but it did work. The new engine will will go back in minus the head tho.


So we got frame


Tomorrow I'll try to set up some string lines and see if it is straight. Never know... the more I mess with it the more I discover just how badly trashed it is.
 

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Hack in a barn
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I have no advise for you, sorry...
But I am subscribing, I sense things will be interesting around here!
 

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There is a thread I read last night about a kz shaft to chain drive conversion mustphadump layed it out 1,2,3 and the guy pulled it off search shaft to chain and it'll be in the title good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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KZ1100 Fighter
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189 Posts
hey mate, ill be keeping an eye on this one.

if i were you i would do the chain conversion for sure, shaft frames are so wide in the piviot you can put almost any swingarm in you want! and you wont have any issue with chain clerance fitting a nice fat 190 tyre...

my shafty build is running a 2009 R1 swingarm:


and as you can see there is plenty of room, thats a 190 on the back:


its running stock 09 R1 linkage and shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've been over on KZRider reading up on engine stuff in Nelson's KZ1000 Fighter? build thread.

Lot's to learn.

Where were we...oh yeah mono conversions and such. I'm sure a chain drive conversion would be the thing to do, but I ain't going there. I've been down the road of putting 9 Grand in a 3 Grand bike with my Beezer. I'm not doing that with this one. Cheep Cheep.

I am almost back to parting her out after busting that rotor. Them damn things are expensive and rare. Now I know you guys put many thousands into your builds, and I probably would too if I could. But I can't. If I can get her to run and it smokes a bit then fine I don't care. Just 10 bucks... if it ain't necessary then not happening.

Besides, I don't have near the skills some of you have. The things you all are creating are how you say "the shit". Freakin amazes me. For this build think funky ratty how the hell does it stay together sort of thing.

I guess that's the ground rules then. Figured I need shocks anyway so why not mono it.
Forks to match the mono may be an issue, haven't reached that bridge but I see it coming.

Soo methinks I better get into my spare engine and see what I dumped $250 on. I know it may have a couple issues. It leaks oil at the head, may have some stripped bolts from the PO, but the breaker said it ran pretty good.

Might be building a basket case. Cheap.

Anyhow... set up some string lines today and after some tweaking on the triple trees I got within my margin of error of 1/16 to 1/8 inch overall. So I think my frame is okay. I was worried because there was definite evidence of it being severly dumped.

If anybody is interested I can go into how I did that. If not I won't bore you all.
 

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KZ1100 Fighter
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its all good mate you can only do what you can afford...
im forcing myself to take my time on mine this one, not expecting to be done for a few years at least.

thereis a really nice monoshocked ST on here somewhere but i cant find it again, im sure someone will know who's it was...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah... no job, $900 a month So So Security and still paying on the mortgage don't go very far. But like ya say it's all good. This beat up old piece of shit bike is my Build Something 101 class. I'm gonna learn a lot.

I "cleaned" out the tank last year...




 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the comments guys.

Got into the engine a bit today. I see a big plate of crow coming my way. Cheap... yeah right.
I hate it when I have to decide to man up or wuss out. Keep on trucking or part the bitch out.

When you see nuts on the valve cover bolts that's a clue...


Son of a bitch, upside down reed valve, nother clue.


Busted cam bearing cap and over sized bolts. In fact, 8 over sized bolts and all but 3 of sixteen stripped.


All the head bolts felt good EXCEPT these two over sized bolts on the ends. So the cylinders have thread issues also.


Cylinders and pistons look okay, but I better get them measured.



Got one loose exhaust guide (by wobble guesstimate)


Wish my camera did a better job on flash, you all can't see much. Most of you have been here before tho. If ya count high school forty years ago this is about # 4 for me.

I'm pretty disappointed. My original engine had a piss poor valve grind job, a couple stripped cam bolts, and some busted fins. I hoped this one would be better. If it weren't for the one bad valve guide in this one the valves might clean up okay for my low standards, but I think the cam bolts are all beyond timeserts so I'd have to have them welded up. Or put timeserts in the original head and have a proper valve job done.

Hate throwing good money after bad. Anybody want to buy some parts...:LolLolLolLol:

Serve up that Crow. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got about a grand in this piece of shit. Don't see how I can get out for much less than another 2 grand. Hmm... $3000 or so for a rat fighter. Can buy decent running old bikes for $1500 all day.

WTF
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
600 bleh orrrrr a piece of 1100cc kawasaki history :D
That's a good point. And I like the grunt and growl.

I'll try not to be a negative whiny little bitch tho it seems to come natural.

So anyway, Got the top off the other engine...




Got a set of these cheep cheep T bore gauges. What a pain in the ass to use. Takes practice and a lot of repeats to get an average, but they will work.



So the verdict is both engines are a little past Half Life regarding bore and pistons.
Got some busted fins and stripped cover bolts. Crap valve job on one head, massively stripped threads on the other.

Whatever, I'll get something sorted out.



So back to mono shockin. Thought about putting it under the engine decided against that.

Saw this and definitely decided against that....


Progress? Got a Fleabay 2012 Busa shock and linkage today. Bit more than I wanted to spend (break them rules) but I couldn't resist the claimed 57 miles on it.

So ya all think that will work okay for me? It seemed to match up weight wise with race techs spring calculator. Maybe if I can loose a few pounds and not run too much preload it will help with damping down the heavy swingarm???
 

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I'd personally bite the bullet a little and send the head off for engineering. Its not a massive job to have the head skimmed and you could even gas flow it yourself, and if you can find a good engineer take in some valves with the same stem diameter that are longer and have larger heads (car valves) and have him cut the seats out to their limits and fit them.

You could get this work done at less than the cost of a new decent head and you'd be left with some serious power after. I looked into buying oversize valves for my old FJ engine (the specific ones that were a mm or two over) but was looking a silly money and I would still have had to have the head engineered. So I but bought a set of car valves for a tenner and just cut the stems down and machined new collet grooves. These took the intake valves a whopping 3.25mm over and there was no expensive machining because the stems guides didn't need changing.

It might sound a bit of a scary move if your not into tuning and engineering but to any half decent engineer its child's play. Bring that Jap monster back to life :rock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well oversize valves are tempting... but I think I'll go with the valves from the head with the worst PO damage. They are virgin and in decent shape. I'll stick them in the head with the least PO damage, busted fins, and crap valve job. Take it to my machinist and have the seats properly ground. Should be good to go. Maybe a shim or three depending on how lucky I get.

Pretty much stock engine then, about half used up, with fresh valve job. Good enough for me for now.

My Busa shock arrived. I have never paid much attention to monos before. Impression...that sucker is huge. LOL

It fit in the hole I had envisioned, but it looked a bit too tight for me, so I cut out the swingarm brace. So got plenty of room to work with.

Race Tech spring rate calculator. (racetech.com)
I entered 550# Bike, 220# Rider to compare to the stock bikes.

2008-09 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 1.122 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: .930 kg/mm(stock)

REAR SHOCK SPRINGS
Recommended Shock Spring Rate: 14.6 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 14.5 kg/mm (stock)

I'm probably gonna regret not converting to chain... the cardan, wheel, rotor and caliper are 63 frickin pounds. Pogo Stick???

Checkin it out with a drawing of a Busa I found on the net.


Time for some Gurus to chime in here... If I can locate the dog bone pivot on the swing arm with about the same ratio of distance from swing arm pivot to length of swing arm as what is shown in the Busa drawing then get the angles of the rocker about the same... Is that gonna work?

I don't think my old brain can wrap around the physics equations, force vectors and such any more. Funny, that would have been a piece of cake 40 years ago!

I ordered the spacer and bearings for the swingarm end of the dogbone.

I've been getting a bit sidetracked with my Ghetto tool collection. I got real frustrated with my HF blast cabinet, so I extended the left side about a foot. Should help a lot.


And started making these mystery parts for my bench grinder...


Any guesses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm doing my suspension research over in the suspension forum. Prolly have a specific question soon.

It sure would be nice to have the appropriate machinery, or enough brains to take a task to a machine shop, but in the meantime back at the stupid ranch we have mystery parts phase two...

First set of matching disks


Decided I better edit this for the "Don't try this at home WARNING!"
No matter how gently and slowly you feed the disc into the grinder, sooner or later IT WILL hookup with the grinder like a pair of gears. If your disk isn't round (which is the whole purpose of this) something is gonna break. Maybe you. The saving grace for this setup is that the axle the disk is on is not in a fixed mount. There is plenty of slop between the axle and the square tubing to allow for the out of round of the disk. It will still hookup with the grinder which spins that sucker pretty good, but the slop keeps things from breaking. Watch out for your fingers.




Any guesses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm struggling a bit with figuring how to mount the mono. So I got a question thread over in the help needed forum.

In the meantime, here's another installment in the "What the fuck is that stupid project" contest.



Any guesses?
 
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