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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys! I'm a real noob here, please be kind :)
I'm in the process of making some sort of supermoto out of my Suzuki TL.
On another one I had, I fitted the german kit for risers and mx bars... but can't really justify the almost 200 bucks it costed.
I wanted to know: what's the best way to drill perfectly centered holes for risers on a stock top yoke?
The TL top yoke isn't ultra-precisely machined IMHO. Is the front side the one I should use to take measurements? And if center tube and fork don't "match", which one should I follow?
I'm a luthier... my idea was: cover the piece with masking tape, use a square following the front (straight) side, then take two points using the fork holes, using a 0.5mm pencil.
Then punch the center with a sharp nail, and drill starting with a 2mm bit and then going up 'til the bolt fits the hole. Any advice?
I know it's not kosher, but adding material on the bottom with a TIG isn't easy... I should bring the part and have it done.
Also, I plan to use very big washers, if possible, to spread the load.
 

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UnicycleMode
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cover the piece with masking tape, use a square following the front (straight) side, then take two points using the fork holes, using a 0.5mm pencil.
Then punch the center with a sharp nail, and drill starting with a 2mm bit and then going up 'til the bolt fits the hole. Any advice?
I know it's not kosher, but adding material on the bottom with a TIG isn't easy... I should bring the part and have it done.
Also, I plan to use very big washers, if possible, to spread the load.


Do all of that. That is exactly how I have done it for years, with endless good results. I am NOT nice to my bikes, I crash a bit, I wheelie alot, if you ain't sliding and wobbling all over, you are NOT riding hard enough to care, so you can disregard where the mounts are as long as they are equal to the steering point.

I can say for certain if you use your idea of this (the same I do it with) and use the center steering stem hole for reference of distance, you can make this setup work fantastic for your own liking for how much distance is between the bar clamps. More distance (farther apart) ends up with a very "solid" feeling, the closer they are, the more bar flex, and the more "feedback" you'll find through the grips. Middle of the road is where 99% of production bikes end up. Check my avatar for a really wide bar clamp setup, purely for the solid feel and control while landing high speed wheelies (built the bike to learn landing them at 100+ with a stopped front tire :eek:) and sliding down into corners on sketchy skills and equipment. ;)
 

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Fuck it, let's do it live
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I'd lay a straight-edge across the forks to get a proper reference line. Then it's just measurements from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys... the thing that kinda hassles me is that if you fail at drilling, it's not easy to recover.
Once you make a 2mm hole in the wrong spot, getting it right gets harder and harder.
I'm pretty picky... that's how I can build musical instruments, where one millimeter is A LOT.
 

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UnicycleMode
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Once I'm decided on where I want the riser holes, I use an auto punch to ensure the tip of the starting drill bit doesn't wander at all. For $10 it is hard to not have a few around the shop even if it isn't used nearly as much as you would like, when you need it, it is invaluable.

 

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Yeah, should get one... also good to annoy peoples in a crowd, during a party LOL.

Would you please keep an eye on my other thread? I posted in the noobs section and it probably gets less attention... https://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3096492#post3096492
Grab a centre drill while your at the store.It will pick rite up on that punch dot and drill a nice starter for you.






Also you can fill the voids under the triple with bondo or similar filler (prior to drilling any holes)to give a flat surface underneath for the washer and nut to sit on . Firms it up nice :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Uhm... I have good epoxy here but I'm waiting for the TIG guy to let me know if he's free tomorrow.
If he is, I'm probably going to rent a van and bring the whole bike there to have the subframe fitted and maybe the top yoke drilled. The risers should arrive today (bought them on amazon)...
 

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Once I'm decided on where I want the riser holes, I use an auto punch to ensure the tip of the starting drill bit doesn't wander at all. For $10 it is hard to not have a few around the shop even if it isn't used nearly as much as you would like, when you need it, it is invaluable.

window breakers:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Eff Tee Pee
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a TL super...moto..? I'm in! :cfrocks:
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yantosh - good question. Nope, I removed it as it's too wide for the bottom of the Dorsoduro tank...
I'll try to run two smaller open filters, but I read it's not the best solution.
Otherwise I should try to butcher the airbox to make it smaller in width... not sure.

I might have it up and running in a couple of days if I had a TIG welder and if I knew how to weld... my bad. :-/
 

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Yantosh - good question. Nope, I removed it as it's too wide for the bottom of the Dorsoduro tank...
I'll try to run two smaller open filters, but I read it's not the best solution.
Otherwise I should try to butcher the airbox to make it smaller in width... not sure.

I might have it up and running in a couple of days if I had a TIG welder and if I knew how to weld... my bad. :-/
interested on how this goes , I have a TL motor without a home
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The TL engine is my favorite: it's mean, powerful, dependable if treated decently.
If I'll be able to finish the build, I'll fullfill my dream of a "total" bike: the handling/riding position of a supermoto and my favorite engine together!
I LOVE KTM 640s, had four of them (2 LC4SM, 2 Duke II) but the engine, even if it's nice for what it is, gets lost on wide/long roads. But their suspensions, frame, brakes are amazing and those bikes really handle like a dream.

The TIG guy said he'll be available tomorrow for the work on the subframe... fingers crossed! In the meantime I ordered decent low rise MX bars and clamps for the fork (to attach a mask on the huge 50mm fork).

What do you guys do when fitting a different tank on a bike? You use the stock fuel pump of the donor tank or you use something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm a moron and probably blind 'cause:

1) The subframe is iron, not aluminum. I didn't check the weight as I used to lift it together with seat and tank!
2) The subframe has a weird curve as the Dorsoduro has the shock running on its side.

The guy has to straighten it, reshape it slightly, make a tube with M10 thread that will connect to the stock frame supports. I just got back from his home after 4 hours plus the car ride and it looks like it fits!
I'll have to polish and finish it, though.
 
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