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Legit goon
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I danced on-and-off with my bike for around 2 years with problems getting her going. At the very end, it turned out
that my throttle cable was a tad too tight and it left the throttle b a r e l y open. I unhooked the throttle cable
from the throttle grip and she fired right up. Was so damn furious. I know it's like one in a million of a chance, but
just to be sure, check stupid things like that as well!
 
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King Ding-A-Ling
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806 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Thank you all for your responses! I took the carbs off of m bike today. I am going to start tearing them down (again) and I will post pics of the process as I go...
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I did forget to take it off of "prime" which led to draining about 1/4 of a tank of fuel draining out of my tank.

Sent from my FingerFookin device a.k.a. smart phone.
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Matt mentioned that I could adjust the floats using a barcode off of a cereal box...anyone have any idea how to do that?
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Newly dis-assembled carbs...All of the parts look the same...no excessive wear/tear on any of them...

Engine side



Bottom View



AirBox Side



FULL Bowl



Air/Fuel Mix Screw (bottom of carb)



???????



Needle



Needle Washers



I know what these are called, but can't remember (no cracks)



Slide spring

 

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I measure float height with calipers and then check once assembled with clear tubing. If you do t have calipers, set up the carbs level and stationary. Measure with a ruler and adjust if out of spec.

Also, soeone mentioned cleaning your tank out. Check the petcock for debris also. But I would set up a aux fuel tank and try to crank it. Keep the aux at handle bar level to not over power the floats.
needles look good, as long as you completely stripped and dipped the carbs they should be clean. You have to really n wire thru the passages ...not just air.
 
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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
So, like a fucking moron, (that I am) I just realized that ALL 4 CARBS HAVE THEIR OWN VACUUM LINES!!!!!!!!! I was fookin about with the carbs, putting them back together, and discovered the nipple leading off of carb #4 (which plugs into the vacuum line on my petcock) is NOT the only vacuum line. EACH carb has one! Which means, only carb #4 was pulling vacuum from the tank/petcock, carbs 1-3 were starving for fuel/air/vacuum (whatever) I took a video of the problem, and it is up loading now to YouTube...as soon as it has finished, I will post the link here for you to view, and confirm/debunk my thoughts, and remedy...and also to tell me that I m a dumbass Hahaha!!!

:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
PLEASE check out this video, and let me know if I am right/wrong...


http://youtu.be/WkIstxbPbu4


Here is copied bit from KatRiders talking about the vacuum hookups for a 95 Katana 600 (mine is a 94 750)
Vacuum line:
Routes from right hand side near top of # 4 carb, out to right, factory bend in hose turns it UP for a few inches, then another factory bend turns it towards to fuel petcock over near # 1 carb. Routes THRU small bent clip that goes on top on #3 carb at front (air cap) and then UNDER bend and between (98+) throttle cables and UNDER exhaust gas outlet hose from engine to left side of fuel petcock.

I would assume the 95, 600 also uses the BST36SS "SlingShot" carbs as well...at least that's what Google said...
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
So, I hooked up the vacuum lines, and holy fuck!!!!! It fired up like a champ...with a consistent idle (no choke) at 7,000 RPM!!!!! OUCH!

I bench-synched the carbs, and set the air/fuel screws at 2 turns out, and damn...

Guess I need to go back inside the damn thing AGAIN and fix something else...I swear, I'm going to torch this motherfucker.

I screwed the air/fuel screws all the way in, and backed them out two full turns...do I go in there and screw those back in a little? Other than the synch and air/fuel adjustment, I didn't fuck with anything...lol.

Sent from my FingerFookin device a.k.a. smart phone.
 

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progress! good job
Now get the manual and reference how many turns out you are to set the screws. No point in winging it with speculation. Go to the factory source. You will probably have to sync them again.
How are you syncing the carbs: guages, ear?

you are almost there, but do it right or it may not run well as it should.
 
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Ok i just watched the video & think you got it wrong mate, i'm basing these comments on uk spec carbs but dont think theres any major differance in us ones but bare it in mind :)

The vac hose to the fuel tap usually runs off the top of one of the carbs, the same place you would attach your guages to sync, commonly its number 2 carb but it really wont matter which you use to operate the tap, i noticed from the pics & video that one of the vac takeoffs has a different rubber bung on the top to the others is this because there would normally only be 3 bungs as the other is used for the fuel tap

What you are thinking of as the vac takeoff point isnt usually drilled through its just part of the casting, if this one is drilled through its probably a carb from a different set thats been put on that rack to make a full set of 4, if it is drilled blank it off with the spare rubber bung or something similar & run the vac as described above

If it still revs at 7000 you did the sync too high up IE the adjusters screwed in to far to start with, back them off & start again, or turn the tickover adjuster out a little, remember a bench sync is only a start point you need to vac sync them once its running reasonably well, wrong mixture could also cause this so find the stock airscrew settings

If you lost lots of fuel you will probably now need to do an oil & filter change as the fuel may have leaked down & filled engine, look at the oil level if its higher than usual it has ! get your nose in the filler hole & smell it, if theres a strong fuel smell it has ! the above is important to check as with too much fuel & oil mix in there you can get hydraulic lock & kill your engine

Hope it helps :)
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Ok. I'll do that...

And I am using Matt's gauges to sync the carbs...

Sent from my FingerFookin device a.k.a. smart phone.
 
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Oops i forgot to mention the float height setting is 14.6mm, suzuki say thats + or - 1mm but that one mm will have a big effect on the bikes running so get it spot on
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
So I've done everything to try and make this thing run. No luck...this is my last effort before I sell it all.

Does anyone here want to rebuild/bench synch my carbs? I'll pack em up and ship them to you. My budget is roughly $200 If you have a 750 Kat you van actually synch them to that would be better!
they are the BST36SS carbs...thanks in advance...I'm through trying myself. I'm going to sell it, if no one is interested. Thanks guys!

Sent from my FingerFookin device a.k.a. smart phone.
 

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Don't sell it you will regret it later.I have Bst 36 carbs off a bandit 1200 and the sides are solid no vac take offs there.Go thru it from the start.Back off throttle cable,turn down idle speed screw.Try to start.Throttle butterflys look to be a bit open in pics.See what happens.I have never bench synced bst carbs,only done it with bike running.Have bench synced RS 38 flatslides and found it to be close but still needed synced with gauges and bike running to make it spot on.Go thru the manual and check for procedure if you have not already done so.There must be something that is being missed as generally have not had a problem with bst carbs.Especially ones with little mileage on them.I know it can be a pisser but don't give up man.Is there no one from CF close to you that could take a look as usually a second pair of eyes may see something that may have been missed.Wish I could help you more but am a bit far away!!!
 
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