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Noob Fighter
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
And the power delivery isn't as smooth as I would expect. From what I've read on the site so far, I may need to re-jet the carbs (04 CB600F). The issue specifically is that I get a not very smooth sound/power delivery at low speed/load/throttle similar to (but not as shitty as) a race tuned 2-stroke. Being that I'm picky as shit about such things (and also a new rider) this is really starting to piss me off when I'm anywhere but the highway or a windy traffic free road. I have run seafoam in the gas tank, and only use Chevron 91 octane.

I am also considering removing the air box and going with two pods, at which time I know I will have to have the jetting done at least. Can anyone confirm my suspicions that the previous owner had no carb work done after going short-pipe?

EDIT: Or is this just part of the "short pipe" game?
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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3,516 Posts
Used bike, could be many other things besides the short pipe (which alone has only very small effect other than increased noise and decreased weight).

Spark - gap and timing? Valve adjustment? Carb sync?
 

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Noob Fighter
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like I'll be taking my baby in for a service. I have no experience with a single carb let alone multiple carbs...
 

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740 Posts
Does using the choke at these "rough" speeds improve it? If so you have plugged jetting making the bike lean out. Pilot jets are the most common, they're the smallest and first to clog, usually giving a low-mid range hesitation or bog.

It's also quite common for older, higher miles 600's to be desperately in need of a valve adjustment. It's kind of tough to describe the symptoms, but a noisy engine, general "rough" feeling, and flat spots in the powerband tend to indicate that it's overdue.
 

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Noob Fighter
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Does using the choke at these "rough" speeds improve it? If so you have plugged jetting making the bike lean out. Pilot jets are the most common, they're the smallest and first to clog, usually giving a low-mid range hesitation or bog.

It's also quite common for older, higher miles 600's to be desperately in need of a valve adjustment. It's kind of tough to describe anthe symptoms, but a noisy engine, general "rough" feeling, and flat spots in the powerband tend to indicate that it's overdue.
Well its basically an open header... so its always noisy lol. I talked to the previous owner who said he had looked into it and he thinks its a sync issue. Once the engine is under load its smooth all the way up, not counting when it hits around 7k and decides to let the vtec kick in (sorry im a drifting fan, making fun of vtec is in my bones) but around town maintaining 25 mph for instance... poppity pop pop pop. Just annoying really. Also the transition from off throttle to on throttle is a bit abrupt. Also, the bike only has about 25,000 on the clock so i doubt the valves need love.
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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3,516 Posts
25,000 miles is probably NOT to early for valve adjustment. I think the valve clearance adjustment interval on that bike is 16,000 miles or 24 month. If the PO never did it, it is likely long past due.

You need to at least check them. No point sycing the carbs until you do, because with (intake) valves out of spec, the cylinders do not pull the same amount of air, which very well could be the reason they are out of sync to start with.

Valve adjustment on a bike isn't any special love, its (a commonly neglected) part of routine maintenance.
 

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You can listen to the engine itself better by sticking your hand over the exhaust outlet/s with it idling. This lets you listen for stuff like clattering valves, rod knock, or a loose cam chain slapping around.
 

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Fast ZX-12R
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17,522 Posts
Sounds like a lean condition to me. If your on the throttle or cruising at Highway speeds it is getting enough fuel to run fairly smooth, but riding slow at low RPM it runs rough, is a sure sign of a lean condition. Also does it have a lean pop with you back out of the throttle?
 

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watches you sleep.
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9,116 Posts
Definitely get your bike running smooth as a babies ass before you go putting pods on it. Last thing you wanna do is throw a wrench like THAT into the gears. Pods usually bring headaches at first. Theyre manageable, but dont expect them to be the answer to your problems.
 

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Premium Member
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1,336 Posts
Definitely get your bike running smooth as a babies ass before you go putting pods on it. Last thing you wanna do is throw a wrench like THAT into the gears. Pods usually bring headaches at first. Theyre manageable, but dont expect them to be the answer to your problems.
If that's the end goal, and you've isolated your running problems to the carbs, then I would just go straight to pods. You just have to anticipate that none of the current jetting is going to be correct.
 

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Noob Fighter
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I definitely would like to get rid of that huge stock airbox. What a wart that shit is. Only thing is I'm not sure if I can justify the expense right now. Im focusing on safety at the moment, which means I just purchased upper body armor and an LED integrated tail so that my night time commute home isnt quite so dangerous. My current "indicators" are shit.
 

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. Im focusing on safety at the moment, which means I just purchased upper body armor and an LED integrated tail so that my night time commute home isnt quite so dangerous. My current "indicators" are shit.
Good for you, if only this attitude was more prevalent there would be a lot less "statistics" out there.
 
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