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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys I decided to fab up my own SSSA...I got a good amount figured out already by doing research and design. But there are a few things Im not sure about.

One thing I was wondering was if there was any advantage to having a offset wheel? (ie: VFR wheels) I personally dont like them (based on looks) I prefer a traditional centered wheel.

Another would be figuring out a hub to use...I found one meant for a 300 rear chopper wheel...its pretty expensive but theyre the only company that sells a commercial SSSA hub.

Another thought for the hub would be I would just use a VFR/Duc/Triumph SSSA hub, but honesty I have never seen one and can not find a picture of one anywhere, if anyone has a pic of a complete VFR hub off the swinger and without the wheel bolted on that would be awsome.

Last and ,on my ranking of paths to take, least...I could build my own...here I am almost completely lost so any info (diagrams, tech articles, etc) would be appreciated.
 

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Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,434 Posts
The offset wheel is going to keep your wheel in line with the other wheel.

Just use the VFR hub, there's no point in using anything else.
 

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Perpetual Project
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I'm sure the hubs would be expensive, but I know they're out there.

Check ebay, call all the local salvage shops, I'm sure you could find one lying around somewhere, ask Scrapyard or Skrooze, they might know a source.
 

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Build It Ride It Live It
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VFR, Ducati and Triumph all use the same size bearing and hub. The Custom HD hubs are only good with exspensive aftermarket wheels. The VFR and Triumpg use a 4x100 bolt/ stud pattern. So wheels are easier to come by.

Here's the blow apart of the VFR hub



As for price, you're better off getting a complete used arm. Snatch the hub out of it and use the arm as a base for measurments and to setup your jig. If you were to price out a complete hub assembly new from Honda, you're looking around $1100 for all the parts. Used is deffinatly a better way to go. I picked up mine for $250. Spent about $75 replacing all the bearings and seals and anouther $50 powdercoating it.

Good luck with it bud. Keep us updated on how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well this is all for a new custom bike in the works, not my 900RR streetfighter project, I already got a VFR750 swinger and 800 wheel for that just need hub and brakes...as for the other project bike I plan on using aftermarket wheels, I just dont want to spend $1000 on a hub unit...for the VFR hub I was thinkng I could ask a custom wheel company to get me a rear rim that will fit the VFR hub, but without the offset center, then when Im building the swing arm just make sure to compensate for the centered wheel.

I already have the basic design done now I just need to start fabing up prototypes.
 

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Naked from the waste down
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Any wheel will fit the hub, but only few will properly seat on a swing arm and be true to the front.
 

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Build It Ride It Live It
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Well, you can do like Me and a couple others have and use car wheels. You'll need to find a wheel with the correct backspace and offset, but if you find one to fit without the adapter it will have the deep dish look you're after and still be true with the front wheel.
 

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the mad doctor
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the reason the wheels are always offset, is that in order to make the bearing big enough to support the loads and forces that it's going to see, it has to be pretty wide. a narrow bearing that would allow a "normal" offset would self destruct quickly on the back of a bike. with the bearing that wide, and still allowing the sprocket to be on one end of it so the chain runs true, the only option is to offset the hub of the rim to allow clearance for the wide bearing.
if you want to understand what i mean, think of it like this.... if you ran a shaft thru a short piece of copper pipe (like 1" or so long) it'd be very easy to distort the pipe by putting force in any direction on the shaft. now, take that same shaft, and run it thru a piece of copper pipe that's 4 or 5 inches long, and try to do the same thing. it can handle ALOT more load before it bends/breaks.
same thning with a SSS hub. you have to have a wide bearing to support the loads caused my removing one half of the arm. sooooo...in order to make a wide bearing fit, you have to push either the sprocket side, or the wheel side (or both) farther outboard. you can't (usually) move the sprocket side and still keep the chain in line, so the hub has to be the one to move out. the offset of the rim is just making up for that, so the wheel stays in the middle of the bike.

that make sense? sometimes i have a hard time explaining things. i can see it in my head just fine, but putting it into words isn't always easy.
 

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Naked from the waste down
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Unless he makes the swing arm branch out to the left far enough to allow for a deep wheel. You know?


*edit*

Like this..... where as a VFR only comes out a little bit. Sorry for the crude mock up and the GIANT tire. lol I wanted to make it read able.


You'd have to do the chain like the 300 tire kits do. With an intermediate shaft with sprockets on each side mounted on a bearing to clear the tire.
 

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the mad doctor
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Unless he makes the swing arm branch out to the left far enough to allow for a deep wheel. You know?


*edit*

Like this..... where as a VFR only comes out a little bit. Sorry for the crude mock up and the GIANT tire. lol I wanted to make it read able.


You'd have to do the chain like the 300 tire kits do. With an intermediate shaft with sprockets on each side mounted on a bearing to clear the tire.

yeah, running a jackshaft adds a whole new part to the equation, but let me tell you (from experience) how much of a pain in the ass it is to adjust the chains (cuz now you'd have 2) when you run a jackshaft.

fuck that. i refuse to run a jackshaft ever again. i went so far as to handmake sprockets on the chop so i wouldn't have to run that garbage.
 

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Member
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No that was a good way to put it and has cleared a lot up for me...I thought the off set was simply to distribute weight put on the hub, not because the hub had to be a certain length to maintain structurale strength.

Well Im pretty set on having the rear wheel not having an offset but this doesnt not screw up my design at all...I was going to have a custom front and rear sprocket made and they would have the offset...I dont kno if this makes a difference but to me it seems it would, Im planning to run a 240 rear, the monster 300+ tires dont interest me that much throw the bike off balance visually IMO, but the 240 kits I have seen do not need to use a intermediate jackshaft, another advantage to me.
 

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the mad doctor
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just so you know, most every 240 kit i've seen also offsets the rear wheel to the right. it's not in the center of the bike. that's how they get awat with not running a jackshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmmm well ive been looking at the SSSA bu CSC where it looks like the rim doesnt have an offset...are the spokes on those kits offset from the center as well as apposed to them bowing out to the offset center?
 
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