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oooh fudge!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Don't think there's much to say, first frame had a helluva history for me.
Hard Up Choppers makes a great product and I think I've got enough parts floating around to make it into something special.

I don't have a motorcycling background, it's all bicycles for me, and you can expect some of that will carry over.

Every parts choice is made for a reason, I won't discount function for aesthetics, but I will sacrifice power for lighter weight (hence the 750).
It's not really a flashback to the bobbers of the 50's, but it should be a hardtail, lightweight, long-distance hauling type of sled.

For me, this bike will (HOPEFULLY) be the culmination of a hoped-for build that started over a decade ago and kept getting sidetracked or just outright screwed.
When it's done it doesn't just have to get me around town and to my favourite pubs, it also has to get me to Mexico and beyond.

It's a legacy bike, and it will never be sold.

Questions?
 

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oooh fudge!
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Benqro, si estas comprando, p'aya voy!!

So I test fit switchgear on the bars I'd like to run, but decision will only be made once I get the frame. If it works out I'll have an ultralight bar setup and levers, that should be comfy as well.

Hoping to hear back about a seat today. Thinking of modifying modify a lock bracket for use on the seat.

I don't like the "giant plastic pods of doom" that are stock switchgear, but unless I decide to spend 300$ on microswitches... it is what it is.

No, no pics until something works out, for now it's all ideas! :fu:
 

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oooh fudge!
Joined
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, haven't picked it up, but the guy's holding it for me- so I should be perched on a rich phillips snub-nose seat! I'll pick up a biltwell hinge, make a bracket and run a Cane Creek AD-4 shock underneath.

Now to ponder the headlights... I have some simple chromed ones kicking around, and a mini-fairing made form a chopped-up Katana nosecone, and an idea to split a pair of squinties and run them below and in front of the tank... that'd keep the lights off the fork.

I'm now leaning towards running RWU forks since they're lighter, instead of the hayabusa stuff.
The busa stuff is way tougher looking, but I don't know if the extra stiffness is needed (or even relevant) and I don't want it the fork to visually overwhelm the rest of the bike.

My hope is to plan out as many sub-assemblies as I can before the frame gets here.
 

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oooh fudge!
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just grabbed this supertrapp megaphone, already had this gutted and shortened (due to damage) yoshimura. Easy enough to punch the trapp's core out, so will try a test fit.
I'm more than fine with keeping the stainless mega style, but would like to have a shorty carbon supertrapp!

Oh, got news last week the frame is in the mail! Not sure how many weeks until it gets here but I certainly hope I have it before Christmas!

Still don't know if I'll throw a passenger seat on or not. If I do, the fender/mount needs to be strong enough, if I don't I can get away with something a lot lighter.
 

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oooh fudge!
Joined
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks man, yeah a rather large piece!

For some reason the footpegs/mounts I ordered aren't there, but he's off on xmas holiday so probably no solving that puppy until the new year.
Axle slot is 20mm, so no, the hayabusa wheel I already have won't fit. Unless I get shimmy with the busa wheel, also need new wheel.

I did shim up the titanium mountain bike handlebars in the RSD risers.
But they don't really look like anything special, just particularly light for a set of pullback drags.

Oh, I found something fun, a knuckleduster meat tenderizer. It's a legit meat tenderizer, and has the knurled surface and everything, so yeah you slide them on and basically punch your steaks like they owe you money!
And I kept thinking "if I file the hell out of those nubbins and make them flat I'll end up with a knuckleduster with an integral mounting plate, LED's in the holes... huh... taillight maybe?" We'll see.
 

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oooh fudge!
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yergh.
so the headtube bearing races are NOT tight enough for my comfort (read: can pull them out by hand)
No answer form the builder yet on whether I'm getting a new one sent, or what.
Has anyone ever had success using metal epoxy or something in this type of situation?
I am just not comfortable running a headset that I can remove by hand, I don't even accept doing that on my bicycles.
 
G

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Hi maybe I can help a little with this as I just helped a mate with a HUC framed chop, for the rear wheel you need slingshot or bandit which fit the 20mm axle, busa wheels can be fitted with some messing with bearings spacers etc but things get tight on the brake side due to the 6" rim

Are you using the HUC made engine mounts ? if you are you will find that where they make the engine sit you cant use any off the shelf Suzuki exhaust as they will hit the frame & are too low under the sump, really you need to construct a collector with 4 pipes in a line for clearance like this 0000 its still tight though

You could use the busa front end but they are very short so you would need a stepped to yoke to get the height back, part of this is because of the very low stance of the wormburner frame if that's the one you have, bandit 1200 forks are long enough & should fit but you may need a slingshot stem

I have not heard of anyone having problems with headstock bearings on these frames so maybe its worth a check that you do have the correct ones headstocks on the wormburner frame are usually machined for slingshot bearings, I'm sure if there is a problem with the headstock, Butler should sort it

I hope all of that has been of some help
 

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oooh fudge!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hey 4cups, HUC Outlaw frame actually, but thanks!
Bought it specifically because my previous frame (a completely ground-up built frame) had the same problem as the wormburners with exhaust clearance, and I was having other issues as well.
Decided having an outlaw (asked to have the footrests welded, made to use stock downpipes etc) would be cheaper than fixing the previous frame's problems.
Anyways, hoping Butler can make a suggestion, or send me a new top cup when he sends the footrests, not sure.

I'm planning on running an old 18" gsxr 3-spoke front wheel anyway. Right now I have an old slingy fork in there, and with the taller front wheel, and a nice 190 on a busa wheel in the back, I think I'll have what I need.
But those Busa forks... so much beefier. Hmmm
 
G

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Hi again Byknuts the outlaw is a good looking frame & it sounds like you have some of the issues with the HUC stuff sorted. :)

I always forget about the 3 spoke 18" wheels as they are not too common over here, I do think you should go for the busa forks even though they are going to take some machining & money to get in there, just because they are so tough looking, I'm sure you know the options for making them fit

I look forward to seeing it progress
 

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oooh fudge!
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106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's not just the fork's looks.
Back when I was convinced that they'd work without fuss, I fitted some titanium mountain bike handlebars. I'm mildly proud of sorting a sub-200gram bar setup and I'd like to keep it if I can. I was also hoping to run a cable-actuated remote master cylinder off mountain bike brake levers... grand total, I expect it could be kilos lighter than stock. But of course it was all sorted on the busa's top yoke and I haven't bothered to try and move it all over.

Way more fragile in a crash, I know, but "build for the ride".
 
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