your lock has probably corroded and stuck, ran into the same problem with my gsxr. only way to get to work again is to take it apart and sand it back down the moving parts.
obviously you can't do that from the outside so what your goin to have to do is leave the bolts in and flip the tank up side down. remove fuel pump and find a 2ft. flathead (one long enough to bridge the gap, yes they make them) and stick it in between side (smooth side, not the open ends with latches sticking out) of the lock and the lip of the tank. twist it to indent the tank lip, do this on either side. now flip the tank over, remove the bolts and rotate the cap 90 degrees to where the latches match with the indentations. should be able to work it free from there.
important thing is the location and size of the dents you put in. you want to be able to put ur cap back on right, so make sure they indentations are well away from the latches and just make gradual bends over two or three tries as opposed to trying to do it all at once and warping the opening cuz you went to far.
To each his on I guess, but leaves u buying a new cap and having mismatched keys for ignition and tank. Not to mention ull be cleaning out shavings for days. I made the mistake of doin it when I lost my keys a few years ago when I was still wet behind the ears. No one thought to tell me at the time to just take number to a locksmith and of courser he dealer wanted as much for the oem key as the lock costed off the net.
Tappin on the lock may help, but when my froze it was latch mechanism swelled up in the housing. We tried every thing we could to lube it and force it, but the swelling was to bad and it's nearly impossible to get a thins into that portion of the lock.
The stock cap on my first gen Z was getting sticky and sometimes difficult to open, I removed and replaced it with a Driven keyless cap since I saw something like this coming.
If lots of pushing, turning, jiggling doesn't get it to pop (giggity) you can
-Flat out destroy the lock cylinder, then replace the cap. A punch and mini-sledge will make short work of it, just be careful to protect the tank.
-Remove the tank and bring it to a locksmith to get open, then replace it. You probably want to remove the fuel pump to drain as much fuel as you can first. This shouldn't cost any more than $30 or so.
See if your key is really worn out...smoothed edges, and Kawi keys of that era were kind of known for bending from twisting, which slowly wears out the lock cylinders and makes them hard to operate. I had one of my original Kawi keys copied to an aftermarket key which is stronger (still straight after 3 years, both the originals had a twist to them).
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