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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this is my little toy I got for my first bike. I got it to learn how to ride and so that I could work on it. I bought it instead of the more popular bikes because I did not want to get in the habit of buying bolt on parts and would rather learn how to fabricate my own. Enough chat, here is the pics you all love so much.


This is how I brought it home.


















This happened a few days after I brought it home. Not all went back on. :rock:

Darn fuzzy pics.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So a little after I removed the plastics on the front and bought a Trail Tech Vapor gauge. I also got some Acerbis Cyclops headlights to stand in until I make my own set up. For some reason though, I keep burning out bulbs on the Cyclops. I need to figure out the wiring correctly. I also need to figure out how to use the stock tachometer sensor with the Trail Tech set up as the wire wrapped around the spark plug wire is just not accurate enough for me.

Here are more pretty pictures and a little teaser.






 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few quick technical questions though.

The air box on my bike is not actually attached to the carbs. There are hose clamps there, but the inner diameter for the boots are smaller than the outer diameter of the carbs. Here is a picture of them sitting on top. When running it does not seem like a problem, but I would rather fix it before it becomes a problem. Also, how "clean" is clean enough, I prefer to not have to clean too often.









Another thing is that the crank case cover (number 3?) is in not too great of shape.









The front tire, although the arrow points the correct way, looks to me to be mounted b-ass-ackwards.
The treads can be seen really well here.

And the arrow and text here.
 

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Administrator
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50,498 Posts
Good idea ta have tha air box on there correctly,tha outer cover should be replaced in casr bees make a nest in there and if tha rotation arrow is oriented rite then you are all set !.Clean bike is a absolute must mate ,you will spot any probs when cleanin and when its clean you are tha tits ontha road!:thumbsup:Good luck ,I woodnt mind that fooker meself mate ..

PS tha seat? wots yer plans there bro.
PPS looks like ya gotta cylinder base gasket leak goin on there ..
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good idea ta have tha air box on there correctly,tha outer cover should be replaced in casr bees make a nest in there and if tha rotation arrow is oriented rite then you are all set !.Clean bike is a absolute must mate ,you will spot any probs when cleanin and when its clean you are tha tits ontha road!:thumbsup:Good luck ,I woodnt mind that fooker meself mate ..
I was afraid you would say that, just so hard to want to clean it instead of wrench... Time to go do some cleaning.

PS tha seat? wots yer plans there bro.
I should have in not too long, an MSPaint or a Photoshop of what I want, but the tail will be made by hand (Time to try out some fiberglassing. :D) and it will be level with tank like a modern sports bike. I will make a subframe (Time to try out some metal work?) that will raise it quite a bit, thinking of keeping the stock tank mount and just creating a triangle that connects at the rear of a solo seat two inches higher than the stock seat, leveling out the seat somehow and making something to cover the small triangle to match the tail and the tank together. I will try to make the tail look like either the R6s that will poke your eye out or a GSXR style tail, but keep the lines simple to follow the tank better. Later, I will try to make the exhausts into a single left exit very high mount exhaust or an under engine can with side outlet (After I replace the gasket and clean her up, otherwise that would be a disgusting can). I may have a picture of what inspired me somewhere. Talk about color scheme when daylight gets bright enough for pictures. ;)

Here it is, cannot remember where I found it.

And the Exhaust similar to this.


PPS looks like ya gotta cylinder base gasket leak goin on there ..
Want to see another shitty pic of me needed to clean the engine and replace a few gaskets? Here it is...

 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, it's light out and I am awake, so I better follow through with the pictures of it updated.














Hours of sanding and figuring out how to use paint stripper, cleaning the tank of quite a bit, not all, but a lot and a lot of painting. There are at least seven layers of paint on each piece and 3 layers of clear coat all wet sanded until smooth. Took less than a week total and was a great project, I am happy with how it came out.

The yellow frame looks odd, I know. It is going to stay that way until I have the GS fully up and running and I decide to do the subframe for the XJ. The motor will be pained flat black as well as the headers and the frame will be either a bright red gloss, a blood red gloss, or a black gloss.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am currently bidding on a few sets of OEM HID projectors for cars and am looking at removing them from their housing and creating my own. Any quick hints?

P.S. I will edit post with a picture of what I want the headlight to look like in a little while.

Edit: This is what the concept light I was thinking of would look like.



All directions are from cockpit's POV.

Low beams are HID Projector in the left socket and Halo around the right socket.
High beam are the HID Projector in the right socket and the HID Projector in the left socket.
Left turn is the left eyebrow, this will either be a slightly curved halo or a curved line of LEDs.
Right turn is the right eyebrow, same as left turn.
The blue is the dashboard on the back of the assembly.
I already have the Vapor gauges installed, they will just screw into the housing.
The L and R will be yellow LEDs tied into their respective eyebrow. ;)
The H is going to be a blue High Beam indicator light.
The N is the neutral indicator light, I currently do not have any indicators, just tach and speedo.
The OIL is going to be a red oil level warning light.

I am going to stick with either a skull, a ghastly face, or a face similar to the robots in I-Robot. I like their simple minimal yet aggressive design. The color will be the same matte white with matte clear and placed as close to the forks as possible. The ballasts and relays will be hidden with the other electronics in the tail.




I will change out the gaskets in the engine once I pull the engine when I make the subframe/repaint.
 

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Flashburnt
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3,886 Posts
Sweet deal man. Keep it up. Also, check out Buckmiller's build, he has a yellow Seca too!
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, my bike was not starting under its own power for a little while now despite a brand new battery reading over 13 volts. I do believe I have found the problem though. Jumped my bike and put the multimeter onto the battery and it was reading 19V!!!! at 4k rpm. I just got a replacement regulator/rectifier, should be here really soon. Can't wait to get back on the girl, just do not want to be riding her when I know she has that major of an electrical problem.

Also, if anyone with photoshop skills takes a look at this, when you have free time, can you head over to my help request?

Link for the lazy. ;)


Also, small update, put mirrors on my bike, picture below.

 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Small update, the bike started to leak gas out of the float bowls. I tried several things to get it to stop and came to the conclusion that it was the float bowl gaskets that were leaking.

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34412
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34715
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34746

Thank you all who helped me out.

I bought the float bowl o-rings and they came with 4 new float needles. I took the carbs apart and it looks like all that sea foam really did the trick. There was a slight amount of fine dust like particles in the float bowls that I removed with q-tips and replaced the float needles and o-rings. The old needles did not look to be in bad shape, they were almost as good as the new ones.

I tried the bike with just the gas tank and it looks as if the fuel pump is madatory and it will be going back on soon.

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=673248#post673248
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Small update, (Been forever, doubt it matters.) she is running, she is my only transportation at the moment and she is fun...

Went down one more time; (New Mexicans do not know how to drive in the rain.) this prompted me to change out the handle bars as the previous ones were tweaked just enough to bother me.

Swapped out the headlight to something with a bit more light at nights and it looks better in my opinion. I may change to a mask someday, but nothing like the Acerbis.

Slowly but surely fixing every minor thing that was wrong. Went through the wiring and removed wires/sensors I do not use or want on her and checked for other problems. Once I have a small windscreen on my headlight to house the gauges and a new dummy light system, I will finalize the wiring.

Painted her and found out where she is leaking and it should not be too hard to fix it. I am changing out all of the bolts on the exhaust and will have them all working correctly soon enough (currently have one pipe with a single bolt) and swap all of the bolts over to something that looks pretty.

Still going to do the tail swap and thanks to isoto34, I know that the tail works on the upper rail without modification (probably will still lift it an inch or two just for the extra seat height). (As you can see in the pictures below, the subframe is tweaked a bit and need attention.) And still will do the exhaust change during the tail swap as I hate the dual exhausts...













 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nicest upgrade I have done in a while performance wise. I changed the front brake pads from the worn out ones to new HH EBC pads, world of difference. Helps that I locked the rear trying to stop at a light today and was happy I had not eaten much earlier... (Has happened twice now in the past week due to using the rear brake a bit more.)

Will update with pictures of the pads, but I think you all have seen the ones I just removed...

Worn to a couple thousandths with the top edges rubbing on the disk, grinding metal on metal made me buy the replacements in the first place.


EDIT: Also have been averaging 33MPG which doesn't seem to unreasonable due to my lead wrist, size and untuned carbs.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As a sneak peek,


The next big step is going to be March 10th or so, list of things I plan on getting done are:
-Strip to frame, repaint areas that need it (had some trouble with my exhaust bolts recently and ended up knocking some paint off.).
-Drain oil and make replacement gaskets for oil pan and clutch cover as I have slight (TONS) of leakage out of those two simple locations.
-Relocate the ignition to the bracing bar by the coils and grind top triple location off and smooth it out. (Paint it black.)
-Shorten the headlight top brace an inch or two, remove oxidation and paint black.
-Relocate current Vapor Stealth gauges to ignition location.
-Clean and paint the wheels (have not decided on color yet, possible a nicer grey to break up the black and white), have new rear tire mounted.
-Possibly paint the front fork lower legs.
-Chop off the subframe lower rail and half of the upper rail. Re-weld a lower rail that is more vertical to the driver seat, and create a subframe to hold a 2004ish YZF-R6 tail, undertail, solo cowl, integrated tail light and electronics.
-Install 650R rear shock recently purchased after reading the forums here.
-Install FZR600 Clip ons and top triple (after paint).
-Install left bar end mirror.
-Think about making some front turn signals.
-Think about creating some accents for the bike. (All just ideas at the moment: Yamaha on tank, logo on far rear of tail, XJ600 next to the seat cowl, engine covers a different color possibly the wheel grey, sanding the fins to look brushed (?), and triangular covers for the coil bracing area.)



And prepare everything taken off for future sale.


Please REP cjjmls, he did a great job on the above chop and very quickly.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did some work today, started with...





Played with it a bit...



Then used a couple of hours to have...







Shes a little dirty at the moment and this is only temporary until I get everything the way I want it, then a more permanent solution will be created.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have just noticed your pictures in the signature. Is it for an XJ600S? I know plenty about those, believe me!!

Have a good read of this page:
http://diversionclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=600&action=display&thread=7510&page=1

And give it a go. I seriously do believe you will be absolutely and utterly amazed at the improvement if you fit that 1/2" Honda master cylinder. I think on that bike you will struggle for the space to mount the brembo master, so go with the 1/2" off a Honda. I used the part from a 650 Revere, but any 1/2" will do it for you. The part from a Blackbird or VFR800 has a cool little pivot system to make it even nicer, too.

The extra bonus, is these parts are available dirt cheap. I think I actually turned a modest profit selling on my XJ master.

Did you know they used the same "one size fits all" master on the next model year XJ, which had dual discs?!

Some good advise there. In my original posting of this thread (Streetfighter Help Needed) I had posted that link. I actually have in my possession a set of blue spots from an 03 R6 with a remote reservoir and just need the fork lowers off an FZR600 to complete my swap.

I just followed your clicky picture link.

So you are getting a new rear tyre and painting the rims soon?

Have you fitted the 4" FZR600 rear wheel yet? Get the wheel off a 1990-ish model, and it fits in 1:1, and allows you to fit a 150/18 rear tyre instead of the stock 130/18. It literally drops in with no other mods. Just be sure to ask the eBay dude / breaker the right questions, as 1989 ZFRs have a 3.5" wheel like your XJ and later models went to 17" which won't fit.

While you are there, pack out the cush drive rubbers with old bicycle inner tube, and check the cush hub bearing. The wheels only use 3 rubbers, which allows too much movement in the hub as they deteriorate, and the bearings disintegrate, giving poor shifting especially around 1-N-2. Really cheap, really easy fix, this one!

Oh, so 150 doesn't sound much bigger than 130? Sure, but it looks noticably bigger and also, IMHO, improved stability. For such a cheap easy mod, too. It also allows you to fit some fairly modern radials in 150/18, whereas you just can't get radials in the XJ's stock skinny sizes.

Either way = Pleeeaaaase don't get another Avon Roadrider like it is fitted with. Either get a bridgestone bt45 in stock size or any radial if you go the 150 route. The avons are diabolical tyres, most miserable 12k miles I ever spent on a bike was my XJ and a pair of those. Really rotten handling and terrible in the rain to boot.

HTH!!
Already have an Avon AM23(?) Race rear tire as it is the same as my stock and my front is still good. I will be switching over to a 4'' Fizzer wheel in the near future, but have not yet pulled the plug. 150 is larger then 130 and not just in looks, but that is going to take some time.

Also, could you explain the red highlighted in my build thread some more, I will copy this post over to there. (Lots of good info.)

I also went with the clutch lever and mount from a Honda. It has a thicker pivot bolt, so less wobble and a more direct smooth action than the XJ part, and also looks better to me too. I think the bolt is 10mm and it is on a brass bush with an original lever, the XJ one I had was 6mm and had no bush, so of course the material of the lever around the pivot was worn away oval. The Honda switch is easy to wire in, and the XJ cable fits perfectly.

If you aren't bothered about retaining the mirror bracket, then the clutch lever from a 900 fireblade or cbr600 f1-f4 would be perfect. It's the same as used on oh-so-many Hondas, so very easy to find cheaply secondhand. Otherwise the clutch from a 599 or 919 Honda Hornet would do it, as they mount the mirrors on the bars.

Clutch lever has already been switched to the more robust FZR600 perch as it came with the set of clip ons I got. I use bar end mirrors if I use mirrors at all and am not worried about removing mirror brackets.
 

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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
When I changed for the 4" rear rim, I re-used my existing disc. I used decent well-fitting snap-on Allen bits, and a regular 1/2" ratchet bar. I am not a big guy. I snapped 5 of the bolts clean off at the heads, and one rounded off and had to be drilled.

They are put in with thread lock, and/or lots of corrosion. It is NOT going to be easy to remove that if it's the same as mine was. First thing is use LOTS of heat. But honestly.. you are already looking at fitting FZR front wheel for the dual discs, and rear wheel for the wider tyre, why stress yourself with this stuff when it is so temporary. Sell the new tyre you have and put it towards the new wheels, maybe score a set with usable tyres to keep you rolling.

When you fit new disc bolts, lots of copper grease is the order of the day!

Of course I don't know yourbudget here...
 
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