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motarded
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here we go. Started to tear into this CBR929RR. I'm starting to notice, 50% of this bike is emissions equipment, its gotta go. Let a motor be a motor and not an air purifier. Ripped off all the junk, emissions servos, solenoids, vacuum tubes, cables, exhaust pipe, stupid headlight, blinkers, lower subframe support, trail tech comp, alarm system, and canisters.



 

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What are going to do with subframe? After cutting the bottom rails I don't think it will be strong enough to hold your weight plus the force of bumps and all that good stuff for to long.
 

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motarded
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I appreciate the concern about the subframe support removal. A few things; I only weight 150lbs, the bike going from a passenger bike to a solo ride, lastly I will weld on a plate and support between the two supports. The cast part is sturdy as hell to I'll build off those. I just got an aluminum mig welder, miller spoolmate on a multimatic 200, should let me make it strong enough. If not I could make some small stainless supports that look a little sexier.



photochop sketch up of my idea. The 929 is hard to make pretty and those subframe supports have to go....

 

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Littering And...........
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Yeah man I'd look a little further into the weight that setup could support. Even 150lbs still sets on that for an hour or 2 at a time will still stress it. Bumps and other things will make it worse. Especially if you plan on legitamately stunting it.

We are all here to be safe as well. Just lookin out for ya. Hopefully you take it in good taste.
 

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sickboy
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Ya I agree with Andler. That plate is honestly not going to do much of anything for the leverage your weights gunna put on it. 150lb's is not the problem, its the fact that any pothole or speedbump you hit compresses the suspension and the leverage of your 150lb's is going to be HUNDREDS of pounds on that joint over and over and over again till eventually it will snap or bend. Thats why you use an angled bar there because it takes that leverage and transfers it to the frame instead of it being on the subframe itself.

I mean, ya do what you want, just given ya our .02 here because id bet even money that if you just put that plate there it will eventually bend or brake.
 

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motarded
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will see how strong it is once complete. Can you think of a good test? I'll bring it to my friend who is building bikes for Arlan Ness right now and see what they think. I can always add those supports later. Modern subframes don't have this leverage support but a very strong and stiff 2 bolt system like I plan to fabricate. Have some faith people... I'm no youngster and my metal smith mentor is an aerospace engineer and I think I can make it stronger than needs to be. If it doesn't pass inspection, I will do the following....




 

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motarded
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After thinking really hard...ouch. Your probably right. The supports can't hurt, and I do want the bike to be bomb proof. I have crazy confidence in my daily ride (sxv 4.5) and that allows me to act like a hooligan without hesitation. I know I can throw that bike down the street and pick it up ride away. I want that confidence in this build so I'm going to add supports, and thanks for yours....
 

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Good thinking on adding the supports. And just to say the newer sub frames don't have as much bend as the one you're working with. Another option would be to get a 09 r6 or 09 zx10 subframe and adapt it to the blade frame. Just food for thought.

O yea and from the photoshop it looks like this is going to be 1 good looking bike when you're done.
 

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sickboy
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That subframe you posted works because its a boxed piece, which is MUCH stronger than just the piece of 14 gauge (or whatever it is) aluminum tube of the stock subframe welded to a small cast piece. If you like that look you could always build something similar using the single mount below also... like this... The red line could be just a standard aluminum tube like the stock subframe rails are made of. Then box the whole thing in where the yellow line is with aluminum plate and blend it so it looks like one piece. That way itll be mostly hidden but still provide more than enough support.

 

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motarded
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My studiomate says this looks like robocops dead corpse. I was just happy to get the fork rebuilt which is super easy on this bike, didn't need any compression to disassemble. Now they are back on the bike and I can start to organize things. Ebay packages are showing up everyday. Just ordered a healtech shift light and pair valve block plates. Also a buddy just gave me a rizoma brake rez. And I'm almost done rebuilding the nissin front brake calipers which is $100 in seals you can only get from honda, but they should feel good as new. And got a new coat of JB weld on a bent crank case lip. I will weld that whole shut when and if I pull the motor.

I won an ohlins steering damper on ebay which is a must for this bike. I won't have wobbly front end as I have heard this bike shakes its head out of corners. And the work goes on....


Up next I have to figure out how to tightly mount an lsl urban headlight without breaking the bank. $200+ for brackets is too much....





 

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If you search I know knifemaker87 was making head light brackets for that headlight. I know they were only a limited time offer type deal but he is a great guy and might hook you up. If that doesn't work you can always make your own. There's a sticky somewhere for DIY headlight brackets.
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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relocate your ignition switch and you should be able to get it closer in
 

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motarded
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the info on the brackets. Those CnC'd brackets are sexy. I think I can tuck in the light with good old stainless steal rod and washers. My roomate just gave me some stainless steel high temp flux. The google says that silver soldered stainless can hold upto 85,000 psi and I want to go mad scientist on the bracket. I will hack off the front faring mounts and get an inch more of clearance. I want the headlight to have a really low profile and perfect beam angle. I will just start playing and the proper bracket solution should emerge. This test I did is unbreakable after bending and pulling and smashing it, I can tell this sturdy way to connect stuff.

 

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motarded
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will try to get the headlight even closer than it is wired up here. I scored this MT03 LSL urban headlight on ebay for $140 shipped from poland. It is really nicely designed and constructed. Worth the $ if anyone is on the fence about buying. Particularly the reflector and the beam of light has a good throw and coverage. I will show photos later when its wired up.

 

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Looking good
 
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