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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my bike completely shut off on me the other day driving down the highway,electronics completely died, figured it was the battery , it was ,wouldn't hold a charge above 9.0,replaced the battery and is running strong, but now my r/r melted and smoked on me ,i thought the r/r maybe just had kicked it so i got a new one and the same thing melted right through, does this sound like a grounding issue somewere in my electronics or a stator issue , im a bit confused and cant seem to get an answer anywere , im a noob but i want to learn this stuff so i can broden my skill set.
would really appreciate the help
thanks guys
 

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couple months ago i've seen something like that on the cbr forum (sorry i don't remember the exact location)
seems it was something that often happened on the 90's honda that using that kind of R/R, some people change the R/R using gsxr/r6, some add a heatsink & ground cable on the original R/R
 

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this is one of the best electrical troubleshooting flowcharts ive ever found. now this is specific to an fzr 600, so some of the resistances need to be changed around for the cbr, but its a pretty straightforward way to find charging issues.

and truthfully, most of the voltage regulators from the 90's suck anyways, so youd be better off upgrading to a modern one, off a gsxr, r6, or something more modern. i know a very simple one to use is a 5 pin yzf 600 regulator, it should be useable on this bike.
 

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Virtually any R/R is compatible, they all do the same thing. 3 phase AC in regulated DC out. 3 pins for AC, 1 for DC- and 1 for DC+. My '97 Vmax had the r/r from a 2012 ZX14 under the seat. Get one with a part number that starts with FH(mosfet), not SH(shunt). Like 99% of them for all OEMs are made by the same company.

Get an ohmmeter, put one side on the engine case and the touch the other lead to each of the 3 stator wires (going into the case). Should be no circuit. If there's any continuity, the stator is shorted out and has to be replaced. Then set the meter to the lowest ohm scale (20 or 50 or so) and test between wires 1/2, 2/3, and 1/3 for each leg of the stator. Most bikes are 1-2 ohms, but all three legs should measure close to one another. If one is zero ohms it's shorted (this will fry the r/r), if there's no circuit it's bad, and higher ohms means it's likely burnt inside. Any case can cause problems.

Can also help to eliminate the connector between the stator and r/r, and wiring the r/r output directly to the battery. Connectors and harnesses often have a lot of losses, decreasing voltage, which increases amperage, which makes more heat and melts shit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok so got a new reg/rec bike started and idled fine o also replaced my whole wiring harnes,took it for a rip and same thing the bike shuts off after about 30 mins of riding after i came to a stop .the only difference this time is that i have power after the bike dies it just wont turn over,so does this sound like the stator is fried
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well there ya have it, it was the stator the bikes running great now nice and strong
to list the actions i took to get the bike going was
new wiring harness
new battery
new r/r unit
new stator
and of course new oil
bikes running like a gem and for kicks chucked on some drag bars post a pic tomorrow ,thanks cf
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i guess all in all the time and effort was knowledge well learned and since the bike is 1994 it was probably due for some new electronics anyways so not at all bad that i chased the problem backwards
 
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