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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i bought my cbr600 f2 with a integrated taillight already installed. before i pulled it apart i figured it would be as simple as swaping a couple of bulbs out for LEDs and resistors but now i realize it is going to be a bit more confusing.

i drew a shitty diagram of how it is wired below. the bulbs are dual filament with running and the blinker for one and the brake being the other

when i unplugged wire 4 the brake lights stopped working so i assume that 5 is the (-) and 3 and 4 have to go to the turnsignals.




would it be as simple as this? maybe add a 4th LED for each of the blinkers to take it up to 10volts per side. i wouldnt need resistors anywhere if im using 2V LEDS since the brake light would be at 12V and each blinker would be at 10V?

or am i totally missing somthing here
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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Remember that a good battery is 12.6 volts and a charging system gets upwards of 13-14 volts. If you are using just 2 volt LEDs, you really should have 7 or 8 in series or the equivalent with a resistor added. (A small resistor is usually a good idea just in case... if you ever have your R/R go out, you wouldn't want it to take out your tail light as well.)

The beauty of the dual, dual filament bulbs is the ability to have one low watt circuit with both, one high watt circuit with both and each high watt circuit independent. I would have thought your system would have running lights on always and the brakes/turn signals as the high watt circuits. How does your light deactivate the left or right brake light to allow the turn signal to show through?

If I were wiring up an LED tail light from scratch, I would be tempted to use an array of 28 2 Volt LEDs, 14 red and 14 yellow. Low watt circuit would be full voltage to two sets of 7 reds in series paralleled together with a strong resistor, high watt circuit would shut off the low watt circuit with a relay and be two sets of 7 reds in series paralleled together. I would then have the two independent turn signals as 7 yellows in series. All of these can have a common ground as long as the LEDs are oriented the correct way. I would put the turns as yellow and independent of the brake light for added visibility and ease of wiring. Cars are more likely to see a different color flashing while you are braking for a turn. I would have your running and brake lights as two series circuits paralleled in order to prevent everything burning out at the same time. If you burn out one LED with all of your LEDs in series, you will lose both your running light and brake light at the same time. (Much harder to diagnose and a little worrisome with how shitty many drivers are out there.)

Also, to prevent having to use load resistors, I would get an LED flasher relay and replace the front blinkers with LEDs at the same time.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

A good LED calculator, if you send too much voltage through your LEDs, you will pop them and that is no bueno.

With your drawn diagram in post 2, you have three independent circuits that I see. (Brake and two turns.) I do not see your running light. (Are you going to use one?) You should work on the assumption that your turn signals will have full voltage unless you already know the fronts are wired in series. (Usually not the case as this kills both signals at once instead of each individually, much harder to diagnose.)

Lots of words, ask if you would prefer pictures for better explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the low watt filaments act as running lights until i turn on the blinker, then one side shuts off and the other side blinks. the thing that makes this a whole lot more difficult is the fact that the bike allready came with the integrated taillight installed and the wiring harness hacked to crap.

i was hoping to avoid messing with the flasher and relays and stuff by treating each filament as a separate bulb and just swaping it out accordingley. if i have say 14v worth of bulbs and resistors lined up in parallel would it be less bright when the charging system is not activated?
 
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