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Discussion Starter #1
First of all wanted to say whats up and thank you guys ahead of time for any advice. New to the forum but not biking community.

I am in finishing stages of an R6 Street fighter conversion (2004). Being that the bars are higher and wider than normal using the protaper risers and bars I need to get the following.

Longer right side front brake line ( I would rather replace both front and go to stainless system) I have found sites online ranging from $115 for both sides. Wondering if that is a good price and does anyone have recommendations on where to go. It looks to me like I need about 2" longer than stock.

I need a longer throttle cable as well as clutch cable. Being the cable has a sleeve that is proprietary to my bike will I be able to get any old cable as long as its longer in side. How would I go about using the same mounts and cable sleeve? Only way I can think of that working is by getting some kind of DIY kit with the cable and crimping on the ends after I ran it through the sleeve.


Any help would be much appreciated. Its a fun project but starting to drive me a little crazy as I wanna be on the road weeks ago.


Thanks
Jason:rock:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply. Site is sick. The cable selection looks great.

What about front brake lines.? Any suggested sites?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for their input. Much appreciated.

Another thing is driving me nuts. Holes are drilled in triple tree and protaper risers are in place.

ISSUE- The protaper bolts dont have threads all the way up and I have to put a few washers in place to make sure the nut is secure. I then cut off the excess with a grinder but still needs a little more room on the one side of the bike or it will hit the frame.

Thoughts? I have never used a tap and die set before but thinking about picking one up to make the threads longer, wont need as many washers then will again cut off excess.

Sux that pro taper uses their proprietary bolts with the top cut off like a D shape, or I would just get a smaller bolt and call it a day.

Thanks everyone for your input .
 

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Fuck it, let's do it live
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Or you could just get a shorter fastener and shave the head to fit.

Or you could carve out the hole in the riser to be round, so it would fit a socket head cap screw. That would require a mill though, twist drills don't do well with half-holes. There's a way to cheat that and get away with a twist drill if you must, though.

Either is cheaper than a tap and die set. Though if you do go that route, I'd HIGHLY reccomend buying a high-quality individual die from an industrial supplier than getting a set from any of the common tool names (same advice for taps).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think that might be the best bet, get correct bolt and grind off the side. I have a disc grinder, suppose that will work. Little trial and error

So the individual tap and die sets are that much better huh? I was looking at getting a set from harbor f tomorrow for 60 bucks but am not double guessing that idea.
 

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I think that might be the best bet, get correct bolt and grind off the side. I have a disc grinder, suppose that will work. Little trial and error

So the individual tap and die sets are that much better huh? I was looking at getting a set from harbor f tomorrow for 60 bucks but am not double guessing that idea.
It's not the kind of tool you want to buy from HF.

Individual taps/dies can be crap too, depends on the source. NAPA is good for inexpensive individual taps/dies.

If you plan to get more than the occasional use out of these tools, you'll want to research the different styles to figure out what is best for your application. End shape, type of finish, # of flutes, split dies, and tap handles are all variables and app-specific.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It is metric. Bolt is 12mm 1.75 thread. Went to hardware store and hard to match u the bolt as it's a round head w one half cut off the bolt head. Its proprietary bolt pro taper uses and they don't have any with shorter threads. Issue is threads start about halfway down the bolt. I think adding threads to bolt then cutting it down might be easiest as it's a pain in the ass finding a round head bolt I can cut part off to fit .

U think a machine shop can do it quickly and cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got correct size hex bolt and grinded head to fit in riser. Its now snug and tight and perfect size. Thanks all .

When ordering longer throttle cable , if I go a little longer than I need will it effect anything? I'm giving it the best guess I can which is about 2 inches longer than stock.

I wish I would have finished this project in the winter as I'm itching to get back in it right now......

Thanks again all
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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Not directly related, but here's something I've been looking for for a while: a kit for making my own cables. I kept looking for brake cables, couldn't find them. But a search for "clutch cable kit" turned up this. AFAIK they are the same thing (I'm using a clutch cable for my brake, only thing I found that was long enough) or at least are for my oddball cable-actuated-hydraulic system.

https://www.amazon.com/Venhill-U01-1-100-BK-Unversal-Motorcycle-Clutch/dp/B00O1C26SW
https://www.amazon.com/Venhill-U01-4-100-Universal-Motorcycle-Throttle/dp/B01DL1P1WG

I think those kits will take care of most heavy motorcycle cable setups, for some throttles and chokes you may need something thinner. Mine seem very much like bicycle brake cable, and I might eventually get some really fancy bicycle cable stuff to do them with.


I love the look of these, and apparently they also make them in automotive clutch cable sizes...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/VENHILL-Wo...6ft-universal-motorcycle-VWK002-/182273002123
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sweet. Appreciate it. Yea the cable does seem like a bicycle cable on both ends .

Debating my brake lines if I should go longer. I was able to attach them with risers and bar on but one of them is tight with not much slack. Can turn handlebars completely but just not much play at all.
 
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