[Junkie]

if you aren't reusing the triple, there's always the option of taking a hacksaw to it right above the ignition.

 

[SEBSPEED]

Drill them, or have a buddy with a tig weld a regular bolt on the heads, use normal tool to spin out. Heat will help break the loctite bond.

 

[shinyribs]

Another vote for drilling. Done a few of those now and it always just unscrewed like Junkie mentioned.

 

[XxGRYMMxX]

Ive seen those lots of times, those type of bolt are meant to be drilled off so theyre not very hard. theyre used to hold ignition assemblies to the steering column in some cars (pretty much just like this). a good sharp drill bit and center punch the "dome". go slow, the ones ive done cut pretty fast

 

[Smoker]

Thanks for the advice.

Definitely had to remove the safety bolts because the gauge bracket was bolted in.

Upper triple just hanging by wires, so strapped it up with a couple of tie-downs.

Centerpunched and started drilling the heads off.
Bolts were really locked. Can barely twist them at all, even with a huge vice grip.

Normal hardware.

 

[XxGRYMMxX]

red hardware looks good. little touches, makes a ton of difference

 

[Smoker]

I have a home made steering bearing tool for installing onto the lower triple, but the diameter is too large for this bike.

Could have a piece machined up to fit, but would probably cost about the same as buying a cheap tool.

Ordered a Bikemaster tool. Hope it works.

 

[Mongoose]

looks fancy... mines just a big hammer..

 

[SEBSPEED]

I cut a slit in the old race, use that and a pipe to drive the new one on. Works like a charm.

 

[Smoker]

I cut a slit in the old race, use that and a pipe to drive the new one on. Works like a charm.

Good idea.

Keeping the old race & bearing intact on the OEM triple, just in case the new triples don't work out.

 

[Smoker]

if you aren't reusing the triple, there's always the option of taking a hacksaw to it right above the ignition.

Good idea.

Again, going to keep the old parts intact, just in case. Never seen these billet triples on any bike, so being careful in case I have to switch back.

Starting to think about riding, again. :rock:

 

[Smoker]

Doing work.

Better pics soon.

 

[titan]

I tried iridiums in my '76 CB750 and it gave the bike a slight rough idle right off the bat. Got hard to kick after just a few rides. They were fouled. Put NGK's back in and it was fine for the next 10k miles. I mentioned it on a CB forum and got laughed at, so I never say anything about iridiums anymore since they're accepted as the hot ticket. Nice to hear I'm not alone on this

Doing work.

Better pics soon.

wow that is some stunning triples right there

 

[tldave]

You do more dying than most people do normally. lol.

 

[Smoker]

You do more dying than most people do normally. lol.

I don't do anything like most people.

 

[Smoker]

I knew it was too good to be true.

This is the OEM upper triple.

This is the photo I saw before buying the triples. Can't see the mounts for the handlebar clamps.

I (previously) posted a photo of the new triples, and you can see 4 holes for mounting the handlebar clamps. So, 2 mounting positions, no problem.

Didn't measure the hole centers.

Surprise. The new handlebar clamps and mounting holes are much narrower. The steering damper isn't going to fit.

Trying to design a fix, but may be too difficult with this upper triple.

Need to do something soon, so I can ride. And, I won't be riding without a steering damper.

 

[Smoker]

 

[yantosh]

get new top plate for clamp, proper pitch

 

[Junkie]

yeah, it's pretty simple to make a top clamp for the damper. Scotts mount holes should be centered over the stem front to rear, I forget the bolt spacing but remember it being a pretty simple number.

 

[Smoker]

I think I can take measurements from the new upper triple while it's mounted.

I'll post up a couple of pics shortly to highlight the problem.