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Death metal virago!!

43K views 151 replies 38 participants last post by  deathmetaldan 
#1 ·
I want to start this off by saying I FUCKING HATE CHROME so dont judge me based on how much chrome is on this fucker or i will casterate you with your own jaw bone

the start


new bars- I was originally going to run some turned down drag bars but had a pair of clubmans in the garage and decided to put them on upside down like z bars. I think its a big improvement


stripped all the **** shit off the back of the bike, going to try and get rid of that fagtastic rear fender asap



wired and mocked up an integrated tail light



intake i made using the stock intake tube and a pod filter



one thing i dont have documented is the install of the mac slash cut pipes and then the imediate removal of the baffles. I think i have a video of it with stock pipes witht he muffler removed, i will try to find that and i will try to get a video of it with the slash cuts.

future mods
single carb mod- within the next 2 months or so
bobbed tail- possibly today
gsxr front fender as a rear - possibly today
home made seat pan- within the month
 
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#2 ·
sure is a lot of chrome on that bike lol
 
#5 ·
here is the old video, its from facebook so you might need to add me as a friend to see it

 
#6 ·
also forgot to add, while i was messing with the wiring for the tail light i blew the fuse for my running lights and fucked the relay for the left turn signal. I was pissed because i thought i was going to have to dish out 50 bucks for a stock replacement but it turns out you can just use a 12 dollar automotive flasher relay :)
 
#8 ·
just got in from the garage, kind of dissapointed. I took off my flasher relay and its a 9 pin... not a 3. so i really dont know how thats going to work out. If anybody has any suggestions please let me know. I cut down the front sport bike fender and made a bracket to mount it to. It looks pretty cool but not how i had hoped. I did figure out that the rear frame rails are bent to the left, i guess thats why its a salvage frame, but for some reason im haveing second thoughts about chopping the rear rails off. I considered throwing the stock fender back on and cutting it down but then i dont have the short look that im after. So all i really did today was make a bracket, cut a fender and sweat my ass off staring at everything. Now on with some shitty pics

here is what i started with, a cbr fender that i got free off of craigslist because all the tabs were broken off.


here is what i ended up with



i cut off about 3 inchs of length from the skinny side because it was hugging the tire a little to tight

i wanna what ideas or thoughts you guys have, im kind of glad i dont have sawzall blades right now because it forces me to stop and thing about what i am about to do
 
#9 ·
i found this, so if anybody would like to help me out with pointers on electrical, hopefully it will help

 
#14 ·
So i figured out that the flasher relay has a saftey switch in it the keeps the bike from starting. I am going to try and bypass it somehow... just not sure how. I also found out i need to relocate the igniter that was placed in front of the rear wheel from the factory.... i dont understand why they would do that but whatever. I really dont know what to do with all these damn electronics... if i could ditch the car size battery and get an a123 set up i would be golden. I have a 4 cell moty battery but its drained right now. Anybody think that would crank my bike enough to start it if i got it charged? OR can somebody build me like a 6cell for really cheap? could i bolt the igniter on the seat brace and build my fiberglass seat pan over it without fear of my fat ass crushing it? On with the pics


electronics under the seat that i pulled away from the rear tire


rear fender, if i keep this the seat rails will be getting cut down


the tail light... this is the part that really frusterates me. I was soooooooo happy to have this light because i thought it was so cool. I think it looks like shit just hanging out on the fender. If it was maybe a sparto style tail light it might look better but i dont know what to think right now

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v296/dkeim/?action=view&current=0621112156.jpg

I feel like im going in the completely wrong direction with this and that im just doing everything wrong, I have debated numerous times throwing out everything i have done and just putting everything back to stock. Anybody else ever feel like that?

also, i live near a state police barracks and they think they know everything about everything so i would like to have my rear turn signals. Plus i have a cool integrated tail light so why not?
 
#15 ·
I feel like im going in the completely wrong direction with this and that im just doing everything wrong, I have debated numerous times throwing out everything i have done and just putting everything back to stock. Anybody else ever feel like that?


Indeed man, I've gotten there before. At this point I have vision and mental fabrication going on constantly so I am well prepared when I go out to the garage. For someone getting started with this sort of thing, it can sure as hell get really overwhelming really quick.


Looping the frame over behind the seat and running a hugger fender on the rear tire would light that thing up! Separating the rear wheel from the rest of the rear of the bike could potentially draw more attention to the overall, rather than that giant engine. And the shock position wouldn't change, the tail light could be integrated into the back of the seat pan, and the front seat mounting points stay intact for a factory fit. :D

LTD trim KZ series Kawasaki gas tanks come to mind for a tank that fits really tight to the frame at the front, getting rid of that gap from tank to forks, and a little bit of that tear drop shape as well. The seat looks like a couch. Recovered it could look pretty smooth and sporty.

Have you considered paining the gold parts of the wheels a different color? Personally I would only run a speedo and some warning lights. Steal the controls from a R6/R1 for the master cylinder and clutch perch as well as the light, blinker, and starter/kill switch controls, fully update that bitch! :D

:thumbsup:
 
#16 · (Edited)
IF I'm looking at the right diagram,you should have two blue/white trace wires going to the nine-pin relay,if you have then join them and that should bypass all the lockouts and extra relays and allow the bike to start.
Then you need a live feed to the new three-pin relay from the fusebox,an earth,and a feed from the relay to the switchgear. You might need to break the feed from the relay into two wires,to mate with black/white trace and yellow/black trace. That all if I'm loking at the right diagram though,and you won't have hazards (which the stock bike does).
 
#21 ·
thank you for the help, can you try and dumb this down a little for me?
 
#18 ·
im going to try and figure out a strut system so i can get the fender to hug the tire.... just need to find some mounting points. Anybody thinking of anything that would work? I would love to just weld tabs to the swing arm and mount the fender that way but im out of welding wire right now :(
 
#20 ·
i think im going to make a strut on one side to hold the fender up and mount it to the axle bolt. Is this safe?... i just need to figure out a way to keep it from moving front to back
 
#22 ·
I'm expecting to see Odin painted on this thing when it's done with the title of your thread.
Or that would be a "Viking Metal Virago" wouldn't it

That wiring diagram is messed up.
For your electrical he's saying the 2 blue wires with the white strip that used to go to your relay are the safety things you need to connect to be able to start your bike.

Then to replace your blinker relay you'll need to get a positive wire that has power from the battery and a fuse (usually a brown wire in your harness is a positive that has power once your ignition). A ground wire and then you hook up the output of that to your turn signal switch. You might have 2 wires to hook it up to on the signal switch side, or whatever your old relay plugged into before.
 
#23 ·
Like he said......

Ok,grab your original 9-pin relay plug. There should be two wires that are blue with a thin white line. Snip them,strip back and join them with a crimp or solder connection,that should let the bike fire up.

Coming up,the flasher.......:thumbsup:
 
#24 ·
Actually,first I need to see the wires coming out of your left hand switchgear,and your 3-pin relay. Can you put up some pics?
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
i was so bored today i painted the engine block, also did some research on how to get the gay ass pod thing off the left side of the bike, turns out its all epa shit and getting rid of it should fix my popping on decel problem.

updates to come whenever i get done with it.
 
#27 ·
Here is my update as promised, just got in from the garage and i feel like things are starting to come together.

I figured out that my relay wasnt bad, like i thought all along it was a problem with the front light.
how it is supposed to look inside


how it looked inside


So i took apart my one fucked up rear turn signal and swaped out the contacts. I figured this out because all of a sudden when i was messing with the turn signals it just worked and then would quit, so i would tap the housing and it would work again. That prompted me to take the signal apart and check it out. I am so happy i dont have to drop 50 bucks for a stupid relay (everybody rep gsf1200r for getting a good price on one btw)

I also did some research and figured out that the dumb pod on the left side was smog shit and wasnt even needed. So of course off that came. I pushed the bike out in the sun and took some decent pictures




I have been working on this slowly so i dont wear myself out mentally with it, so i think next i might paint my fork lowers

the begining of july a friend is coming over and we are going to play with his bike too, here is a planning pic


thanks to everybody who has posted in my thread, its not a sport bike or a classic inline 4 muscle bike so i know alot of people arent interested.
 
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